Similar music artists?:?

Fanchy

I'm looking for music made by artists similar to some of these:
The Medic Droid
Millionaires
Jeffree Star
3Oh 3

know any? I'm really in need of music like that.
=]
would appreciate any help! ^_^

Answer
I set my friends on fire
Breathe Carolina
The Spin Cycle
Brokencyde
nickasaur!

is using indoor cycle trainers as good as going to spinning class?

frankfarte

if so, what kind of trainer should i get that will simulate going to spin class?
are you able to adjust the tention as if you are going down a hill( very fast) or up a hill( very tough/slow)?

what brand/ type would be the best for this, i consider myself intermediate. i am looking for the trainers you attatch to the back wheel of your regular bike, not a stationary bike.

thanks

Answer
The big differences of spin class bikes vs a trainer stand:
- spin bikes have that heavy flywheel that simulates the mass of your entire body; this tends to "smooth out" your pedaling effort. On a trainer stand, there's hardly any flywheel so your pedaling feels (is) much "jerk-ier" which really bugs me. It may not bug you as much.

- On a trainer stand, you're on your actual regular bike that fits you the way you're used to. On a spin bike, even though it's adjustable, it's never quite exactly the same. This may or may not make any difference to training, but it does bug me.

- In a spin class, you have the instructor yelling, everyone else working hard, loud music, it's really motivational and the time goes by fast. On a trainer stand, it's just you and your tunes and the clock, and if you start slacking off nobody will know. Plus psychologically, it's harder for me to really push myself for more than a few minutes riding solo on the traininer, but in a 60 minute spin class I can hammer the whole time.

- Tension / resistance: really depends on the equipment. Some spin bikes I've been on I can crank it all the way down and still not have it be hard enough. Others, if I crank it down a few turns I can't even move the pedals. On a trainer stand, you have the bike's gears, plus some models have a resistance setting. But the big problem is if your tire slips on the roller. Generally, strong riders complain they can't make it as difficult as a good spin bike or being on the road. For an intermediate rider, any good trainer stand should be hard enough.

Finally, how much can you spend? You can buy for-real spin bikes if you have the $. Figure a used one in the $500-$1000 range, new is up to $2k. Check with the used fitness equipment stores.

Oh, and always use a fan blowing air over you, trust me you'll be able to push harder and get a better workout.

Scott

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What should I get/ do to become a mountain bike racer?

pokerspade

I am an average novice bike rider. I want to know what I need to do to start training and eventually compete in mountain bike races. What kind of training and diet regiment should I follow? What kind of bike and helmet should I get? How do I even get into a race? I am looking for anyone who has experience in the sport who might be able to help an upstart wannabe racer make his dreams come true.

Answer
First off, I am sure you have a bike. But I am sure it's not 1. Fitted to you 2. Tuned 3. Has proper Components. If you want to race this summer the good news is you don't even need a bike right now. You need to be in the Gym 3-4 days a week taking Spinning classes, weight lifting on both legs and upper body and following a nutrition plan to skinny you up (yes Skinny riders are normally the fastest).

Bike, Ok so your now on your way to getting fit. That's good. But to race you need the right bike. Go to your best Local bike shop (check MTBR.com for review). And tell them your story, they will either outfit you with a better set up or take what you have and get it ready for racing..

Riding: MTB is not just about fitness or gear. But a lot about heart and finesse. I would find out from the shop were the last year races were, maybe there was a series that toured around your state. Then as soon as the weather is nice get out there and ride as much as you can, forget the Gym and just ride. It's a lot different then being on a stationary bike.

Once your comfy on the bike and all the trails (this is not as easy as you think). Make some friends that ride, again your shop is a good resource. and look into a good beginner race. This will get your feet wet with how it's done.

After you have raced a little the rest falls into place.. Good luck.

Cheap elliptical trainer for tall person?

holacarina

Now, people may say that a cheap elliptical trainer will fall apart, you get what you pay for, etc., etc., but about five years ago, I bought an elliptical glider that was sturdy, light weight, and I could adjust it so the stride was just right (I'm 6'3"). I had it for two years and it never gave me any trouble. Had to get rid of it when I moved. I'm looking through all the elliptical glider specs and the ads say how great they are, the reviews say how junky they are, and everyone complains about the 'computer' read-outs. Who needs a so-called computer to calculate burning calories? you just need a watch and a way to measure your heartbeat - so for me, that 'feature' is irrelevant. I paid about $220 for my machine, and assembled it with no trouble. Anyone know a glider like that which does the job without the extraneous stuff.

Answer
Keep an eye out on ebay and in your local classified ads.

People buy fitness gear all the time and then never use it. You can get stuff really cheap if you are diligent and keep an eye out (the real bargains get snapped up very quick) I have a complete home gym (weights, leg press, several benches, power rack, cable system, tread mill, elliptical, spin bike) that cost me about 1/4 of the price of new gear.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

biking/ spinning class at gym?

Kira B

Have you ever been to one? What do you do? What is a typical workout?

Answer
Yes. I go to one regularly. It lasts about an hour. The bikes have resistance knobs on them. During the ride the instructor will tell you to turn them to the right or left. To increase or decrease resistance. You will also have to ride standing up sometimes. Some bikes have computers on them that measure speed and heart rate. The instructor will tell you what speed you should be on. Sometimes you will sprint other times you will go at a constant rate slow but at a heavy resistance. If you dont have a computer just look at the foot speed of someone who does and try to match it. Very grueling. Take a water bottle.

What is Spinning??

Karen_K

Im not familiar with Spinning....... Can I do it on the bike at my gym???

Answer
Spinning is a serious of vigerious bike pedaling, a group exersize conducted by a trainer.. it's hard work but fun

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

Where to buy a cheap mountain bike in London?

mael

I wanna buy a cheap (below 100 pounds) men mountain bike in London. I precise that I don't need top quality, simply a basic one. The only stores I could find with real cheap prices are Halfords and Sportsdirect.
While I could find online many bad reviews on Halfords, I have no idea about sportsdirect.
Anybody has experience with one of those? Are the bikes decent? Alternatively, do you know any other store?

Answer
The bikes in halfords the cheaper models are very heavy and the brakes go out of tune very easily and the gears. They all have shimano gearing which is a good start but they would be one of the lower grades of derailleurs made by shimano. If you could spend a little bit more go for a carrea bike in halfords I have there racing bike and it's fantastic for the price apart from the seat and pedals in which I changed for about 50 euro.

Not all the bikes in halfords are bad some are very good but as with everything you get what you pay for if you buy a cheap model you get cheaper components which will not perform as well as other bikes. look into the hybrid bikes which will give you a faster speed on roads compared to mountain bike tyres and an important thing as well you don't want to get a bike with suspension as you will not get your full power with every spin of your pedals the suspension will bend taking some of the power.

Best of luck in finding your bike.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Spin Class Anyone?

justwonder

I just started a spin cycle class today and I absolutely love it. I am planning on going three times a week. However the seat is hurting so bad and my feet hurt. Any tips?

Answer
This is normal with any kind of biking after a long lay off. Make sure you wear proper bike shorts with padding (not on the seat, in the shorts). It will stop hurting after a few sessions.

Not sure about the feet. Where do they hurt? The best thing would be to wear clipless bike shoes (all spinning bikes I've seen have clipless pedals). As you pedal, make sure to move your feet in circular motion, not just pushing downward, then there shouldn't be much pressure on the foot (unless you're standing). A great test to see if you're pushing too much is to try to pedal with one foot.

What's the difference between a spin bike and stationary bike?

crecentrol

Answer
Usually the main difference between a spin bike and a stationary bike is the amount of technology involved. Spin bikes normally have fewer electronics, meaning that you are in control of your own speed and resistance the whole time. However, spin bikes often have more parts of the bike that you can adjust to ensure that your body is in a good position.

If you want to simply be able to push a few buttons and have the bike's resistance change automatically (hill or interval program), then a stationary bike might be a better option. Many stationary bikes also have the ability to measure your heart rate, which is a really good bonus as well.

It sounds like you could probably try the spin bike again and maybe try to adjust the handles and the seat position to make it better for your back. But, if that doesn't take the pressure off of your back, then go for the stationary bike. Other factors can come into play that could cause pain in your low back, such as too much or too little resistance, poor posture, or an unstable core.

You really just have to weigh the pros and cons to see what machine would be best for you... I personally like the spin bike better, but it's completely up to you

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

what bmx bike is a good choice?

Hello

whats a good choice for under $250? im thinking a kink curb 2012. is kink good? if not what are other good bikes for 250$ or under. i want a nice light bmx that i can do simple tricks and just have fun.

Answer
For under $250, you won't find anything great. Under $400, the frames will be mostly hi-tensile steel, which is weaker and heavier than chromo. Also, most of the bearings will be unsealed, which means they won't spin as well and won't last as long.

Save up another $150 and get the 2012 Kink Whip. It will last MUCH longer than the Kink Curb.

What of tool set should i get for my bike?

tater snac

I don't want to spend a tonne of money on it, but i want a good bang for my buck.
im a mediocer to harcore mountain biker who is getting tired of going to the bike shop.
so nothing too serious like a $6000 dollar set but in the range of 500 or less. thanks.

Answer
Park Tools makes a great "advanced mechanic" set for like $300-$400 and Spin Doctor makes a similar set in the $250-$300 range.

Personally, I've got a Spin Doctor "Pro Tool Kit" that ran a little under $200 and I can do just about anything I want to my bike except for wheel truing... that and I dont have a headset press so no headset installs either but thats about it...

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Is the fit prk2 a good bmx flatland bike?

Do you think that the fit prk2 would be a good bmx flatland bike? If I get it I will install a freecoster, front pegs and front breaks.
If you dont think that this bike will be a good flatland bike, which one should I get?

Answer
Any street/park bike can be used for Flatland, but that doesn't make it 'good' for Flatland. The cons to a bike like that, for Flatland use, are the following...
Heavy weight: Mainly from the frame and cranks. Flatland bikes are usually around 5 kilos lighter than most bmx's, making them easier to whip around, and hold up, too, especially when you are holding the bike up to stay balanced on one wheel. You'll get hell tired, hell faster, doing flat on a street bike.

Long Top Tube: Most flatland frames don't go past 19", which make them easier to pop onto the front wheel, because of the shorter wheel base. Some tricks need you to hold the bars and the seat at the same time, which is harder on a street bike with a longer frame.

Short seat post: Flat bikes have theirs out to the max height noted on the post. Most street seat posts are slammed or short-reach. Eaisly and cheaply changed, though.

Forks: Flatland is WAY easier with minimal to zero offset forks. Popping into Hang-5's, or any front wheel trick is easier when the hub is positioned in-line with the forks. It makes spinning the bars, or spinning around on the front pegs, tons easier, too.

The above mentioned cons wont stop you from busting out some dope tricks on the Fit bike, but if you are going to stick with Flatland, you will more than likely change these things about ur bike, and if ur gonna change frames, you may as well get the right bike from the start. And if you are thinking of fitting a freecoaster, those things can cost you around $150, so add that to the cost of the bike, when working out ur budget.
The good thing about using the bike you mentioned, is that you could use it for everything. ie: street, park, flatland, and just to get around, with.. I have a Hoffman Disruptor that I started out doing flatland with, but I upgraded, after trying my friends flatland bike. I also just throw my bike into my car, and drive to my riding spot, so it's not a means of transport, for me.

So anyway, if ur looking tor part with some hard earned cash on a bike to use for Flatland, you can't go past this website...
http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=25
Flatlandfuel has everything you need, from complete bikes, to bar ends, and every part is designed for Flatland.
If ur a beginner, and don't want to spend $2000 on a bike when ur only starting out, then I would recommend the Stylus or the Opsis, or if you have a little more cash, the Militant FF. They're good beginners bikes, with pegs, gyro's, freecoasters, and both brakes (FF only has a front brake, but can be fitted with a rear). These bikes will allow you to figure out if you want to stick with Flat, without costing you an arm and a leg. I have the Equilibrium Pro. It's pretty much the best you can get, as far as parts go, but I compete in Flatland, and ride like, every day, so I wanted the best, and paid the $2000 to get it.
Flatland Fuel ship all their products within 24hrs, so you get it real quick. Any questions about anything on their site, just email a guy named Pat, and he'll help you out :)
If ur gonna start doing Flat, you NEED to get this dvd... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=630
It has 56 tricks, explained in fine detail on how to do them. A must for anyone starting out in Flatland.
If you have any more questions about anything, email me and I'll help you out.
Flatland makes up only 5% of the BMX world... welcome to the minority :) lol Stick with it, bro, you'll love it when people watch you ride, and you can see the look of 'How the hell does he do that?' on their face.

What's a good beginners bike?

Weston

I'm 5'5, around 150 lbs, and a guy. Yes I am short haha.

Answer
There are a lot of bikes that will fit shorter riders or can be easily modified to fit. But for starting off you maybe need a bike with a smaller engine, 125cc - 250cc.
I'd suggest going out and sitting on some bikes, getting the feel of it.
My suggestions-

Honda Rebel 250: short enough for most people but if you want a sports bike they are usually taller. Don't worry too much about the weight of the bike, the bike will carry it's own weight when it's moving, the only thing you have to worry about is being able to hold it up when it's standing still and knowing how to pick it up if you drop it. Which I don't think will be much of a problem.
This bike's around 330 pounds I believe, and is up to around 70 mph if I'm not mistaken.

Kawasaki Ninja 250: (My favorite) is a great bike in terms of low cost and a smaller frame for smaller people. The only downside is that its a carburated engine so in the morning you have to start it and warm it up for 5 min or so.
This ones a little taller, and around 370 pounds. Up to around 90mph

I'd go out and sit on some, see their feel. Maybe take it for a little spin, but I wouldn't spend an awful lot of money on it if it's your first bike. You'll probably lay it down and get some scratches on it in the beginning.

Good luck!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Do you have to put a download in a 07 softail if you put a after market exhaust on?

p aud

Answer
You don't HAVE to....BUT...it WILL run better. The 96's run extremely lean, which make them run hot, remapping the injection will cool the engine and oil temp and make it run better.
Also, adding an air cleaner, exhaust, and having it TUNED with the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner will give you a an additional 12-15 hp.

Here are some clips from answers to similar questions...

They guys you were talking to are kind of right. With the pipes you are looking at, the bike really does need to have a hi-flo air cleaner put on. The dramatic decrease in restriction and the short length are the reason. Shorter pipes generally cause a drop in power in the low and mid-range, but can be compensated for somewhat by adding a set of Samson Torque Cones. The air cleaner will be needed to let more air in also to help compensate for the increase in exhaust flow. The Screamin Eagle air cleaner is ok, but the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (get the Stage 2 version) is better and about the same price. The S/E uses a shallow, dry filter material similar to a fiber glass mat, the Big Sucker uses a deeper K&N filter that flows considerably more air than the S/E. The stock HD air cleaner is THE most power restricting part on the bike. If you pull off the cover and look at the element, you will see why...it literally starves the engine for air, the reason for this from the factory...EPA NOISE pollution restrictions.
Now this is the MAJOR factor in the situation....DO NOT let anyone talk you into a Power Commander or Vance & Hines Fuel Pak, or ANY type of "piggy back"....FUEL...module!!!
You want the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!
There are several reasons for this.
1. There is almost no room on a Softail to mount an add-on module, it basically get jammed and stuffed under the seat. "piggy back" modules plug in-line between the bikes computer and the wire harness, they are big and bulky and create extra wiring that is a BITCH to mount, route and work around.
2. They do not do anything except control fuel, they have no timing or rev limit adjustments. The Power Commander 5 for 09-up bikes does have an Auto-Tune module that will allow the system to adjust the fuel by itself while you ride...BUT it is an additional couple hundred dollars, and you have to add yet another module to allow for timing adjustments...now you have 2 additional modules to try and figure how and where to mount. All together you will end up having arouns $1000 in modules.

The Screamin Eagle Super Tuner is basically nothing but software that reprograms the stock computer. It is a box that goes between 2 cables that link the bike to a PC. Once the computer is programmed and mapped on the dyno, you unplug it....nothing to mount. DO NOT LOSE THE BOX!!!!....if you do and need further tuning in the future for mods done later, you will have to buy another Tuner. The Tuner, once plugged in to a bike is "married" to that bike only and will not work on any other bikes. The Super Tuner has virtually unlimited tuning capabilites. It will allow for fuel mapping, accelerator pump feature for better throttle response, fully adjustable rev limit (do not rev a Softail past 6200, past that, the balancers spin too fast and can fly apart and destroy the engine), fully adjustable timing advance and curve tables, etc. I was amazed at what this thing can do when I was trained on it.
Having the timing properly set makes all the difference in the world. We tested bikes with stock timing and rev limits that had the fuel dialed in perfect for max power, then loaded in performance timing maps and had gains of 5-15 hp & tq.
And there is one more benefit to the Super Tuner compared to the others....The Tuner is about $400, the same as the others, bt no added expenses from add-on modules...its all built in.

Doing all of this, and having the bike tuned, WILL make it run cooler!!! The Twin Cams run hotter than the older Evo's like Mike has. The reasons are being tuned VERY lean for EPA standards and the Twin Cams use oil jets under the pistons. These jets squirt oil onto the bottom of the piston to help cool it. Stock engines run sooooo lean that they cause excessive heat.....here is the oxymoron....because they are so lean, HD designed the oil jets to cool the pistons....what actually happens is the pistons HEAT the oil!!!....tune the engine, richen it up, and the piston cools down, now, the oil can do its job and cool the piston....double cooling effect. Proper tuning will decreae oil temp by as much as 20-25 degress and promote longer, more reliable engine life...and you will FEEL the power increase.....generally, depending on the bike, combination of pipes and air cleaner, and how good the guy tuning the bike is, you can expect 10-15 hp & tq increase.


The stock ECM is NOT relearn capable, it will only self compensate under the extremely NARROW parameters by which it was programmed...it does this by the use of O2 sensors....NEVER EVER eliminate the O2 sensors!!!!!

V&H Fuel Pack, Ness Fuel Controller....are junk!!!..........Read below........it is answer to another similar question regarding injection tuning, also included is info on oil to help run COOLER...cooler + better performance.......Due to the EXTREMELY LIMITED mounting space for add-on "piggy-back" fuel controllers on a Softail.....I HIGHLY AND STRONGLY recommend the Sreamin Eagle Super Tuner.....it is only software that reprograms the ECM with nothing needing to be mounted to the bike. The Super Tuner will allow for infinite adjustments to the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, rev-limiter, acellerator pump feature, engine decel enleanment to eliminate exhaust popping, etc.

And to make it run BETTER & COOLER.......here is some info on proper tuning........an answer to a previous question......

DO YOU HAVE A HI-FLO AIR CLEANER AND PIPES ON THE BIKE???.....IF SO, DID YOU HAVE THE ECM REMAPPED BY HD OR HAVE A SUPER TUNER OR POWER COMMANDER ON IT????...........THIS IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
HD'S ARE SET UP TO RUN VERY VERY LEAN DUE TO EPA REGULATIONS!!!!!!! RUNNING LEAN CAUSES THE ENGINE TO RUN HOT!!!!!!........THERE ARE OIL JETS THAT SQUIRT OIL ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE PISTON TO COOL THE PISTON.....THIS HEATS UP THE OIL..........RICHEN IT UP, THE PISTON WILL RUN COOLER....THE OIL WILL RUN COOLER.
Even if the bike is COMPLETELY STOCK.......have HD do a Stage 1 download to the ECM......if you have a Power Commander or Super Tuner on the bike..........get it dyno TUNED.....it will increase your performance and make the engine run OPTIMALLY..................her... is some info about "downloads compared to the Super Tuner.......
You want the Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER!!!!.......and have it Dyno TUNED.....don't sttle for just having the base map loaded. The difference between being tuned and a base map is like night and day. The base maps are just that...a base to which to work form. Every engine is as individaul as we are as humans, they each require a little finesse and tuning to make them perform optimally. The Super Tuner will also allow for easier tuning for any future upgrade you may make.
A Stage 1 download is nothing more than a GENERIC map from HD that is "ok" for all bikes....this is CRAP!!!......the Stage 1 download was specifically made for a HD with Screamin Eagle Mufflers and Air Cleaner......not all mufflers (or complete exhaust systems) flow exactly the same and not all Air Cleaners flow exactly the same...meaning, if you change ANYTHING on the exhaust and intake that the Stage 1 was not designed for, it wil not work as well.....like I said every engine is DIFFERENT.
As far as power output goes....it will vary as to what components are used and how well it is tuned....but on an average from completely STOCK to an upgrade of exhaust/air cleaner, super tuner, about 12-15 horsepower........At how many miles did you start running synthetic? You should never run synthetic until at least 2500.
Which Power Commander was installed....the O2 eliminator ( DO NOT USE THIS!!!...THE O2 SENSORS ARE THERE FOR A REASON....O2 eliminators should ONLY be used for RACING applications!!!!) or the new PC 5 w/ wide band O2 sensors? (The WIDE BAND IS THE BEST fuel controller on the market for Big Twins....BUT requires a fair amount of room to install it along with extra room needed for the add-on ign control module), did you have the separate ADJUSTABLE IGNTION MODULE AND/OR AUTO TUNE MODULE (09-newer) installed also....this will HELP ALOT!!!!....the HD Super Tuner is good, but it runs narrow band O2 sensors (i like these for Sportsters because there is no module to install and conceal).....BUT it does have ignition adjustments the PC doesn't have by itself (have to add it extra with the PC5).
Either way, it sounds like you need to have the bike properly tuned....if they just simply loaded a map....that is NO GOOD...a map is just a starting point for proper tuning.
You air cleaner...did you mean BIG SUCKER???...if so good choice.....the Screamin EEagle air cleaner is way better than stock HD.....but does not hold a candle to the DEEPER K&N filter Ness uses......GOOD CHOICE.

looking to put on true dual rinehart exhaust on my 07 ultra classic any pros or cons?

bubba

i heard it doesnt give off as much heat with true duals

Answer
That system is a pretty decent performer...BUT....You WILL need to remap the injection with an exhaust change of that degree...a hi-flo air cleaner should also be added if it hasn't aleady been done.
HD's "Stage 1 Download" will NOT be sufficient for this system...you will need the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner and have it DYNO TUNED....

you can email me here through my profile if you ahve any questions...I also have some other recommendations I could make, but not enough room here...

An answer to a similar question..
They guys you were talking to are kind of right. With the pipes you are looking at, the bike really does need to have a hi-flo air cleaner put on. The dramatic decrease in restriction and the short length are the reason. Shorter pipes generally cause a drop in power in the low and mid-range, but can be compensated for somewhat by adding a set of Samson Torque Cones. The air cleaner will be needed to let more air in also to help compensate for the increase in exhaust flow. The Screamin Eagle air cleaner is ok, but the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (get the Stage 2 version) is better and about the same price. The S/E uses a shallow, dry filter material similar to a fiber glass mat, the Big Sucker uses a deeper K&N filter that flows considerably more air than the S/E. The stock HD air cleaner is THE most power restricting part on the bike. If you pull off the cover and look at the element, you will see why...it literally starves the engine for air, the reason for this from the factory...EPA NOISE pollution restrictions.
Now this is the MAJOR factor in the situation....DO NOT let anyone talk you into a Power Commander or Vance & Hines Fuel Pak, or ANY type of "piggy back"....FUEL...module!!!
You want the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!
There are several reasons for this.
1. There is almost no room on a Softail to mount an add-on module, it basically get jammed and stuffed under the seat. "piggy back" modules plug in-line between the bikes computer and the wire harness, they are big and bulky and create extra wiring that is a ***** to mount, route and work around.
2. They do not do anything except control fuel, they have no timing or rev limit adjustments. The Power Commander 5 for 09-up bikes does have an Auto-Tune module that will allow the system to adjust the fuel by itself while you ride...BUT it is an additional couple hundred dollars, and you have to add yet another module to allow for timing adjustments...now you have 2 additional modules to try and figure how and where to mount. All together you will end up having arouns $1000 in modules.

The Screamin Eagle Super Tuner is basically nothing but software that reprograms the stock computer. It is a box that goes between 2 cables that link the bike to a PC. Once the computer is programmed and mapped on the dyno, you unplug it....nothing to mount. DO NOT LOSE THE BOX!!!!....if you do and need further tuning in the future for mods done later, you will have to buy another Tuner. The Tuner, once plugged in to a bike is "married" to that bike only and will not work on any other bikes. The Super Tuner has virtually unlimited tuning capabilites. It will allow for fuel mapping, accelerator pump feature for better throttle response, fully adjustable rev limit (do not rev a Softail past 6200, past that, the balancers spin too fast and can fly apart and destroy the engine), fully adjustable timing advance and curve tables, etc. I was amazed at what this thing can do when I was trained on it.
Having the timing properly set makes all the difference in the world. We tested bikes with stock timing and rev limits that had the fuel dialed in perfect for max power, then loaded in performance timing maps and had gains of 5-15 hp & tq.
And there is one more benefit to the Super Tuner compared to the others....The Tuner is about $400, the same as the others, bt no added expenses from add-on modules...its all built in.

Doing all of this, and having the bike tuned, WILL make it run cooler!!! The Twin Cams run hotter than the older Evo's like Mike has. The reasons are being tuned VERY lean for EPA standards and the Twin Cams use oil jets under the pistons. These jets squirt oil onto the bottom of the piston to help cool it. Stock engines run sooooo lean that they cause excessive heat.....here is the oxymoron....because they are so lean, HD designed the oil jets to cool the pistons....what actually happens is the pistons HEAT the oil!!!....tune the engine, richen it up, and the piston cools down, now, the oil can do its job and cool the piston....double cooling effect. Proper tuning will decreae oil temp by as much as 20-25 degress and promote longer, more reliable engine life...and you will FEEL the power increase.....generally, depending on the bike, combination of pipes and air cleaner, and how good the guy tuning the bike is, you can expect 10-15 hp & tq increase.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Spinning bikes? Better? Worse?

Rachel W

I'm looking into getting a spinning bike but I'm really lost as to which one to get. The main brands that I'm looking at are revmaster, which I think is ou of my league pricewise. The schwinn, not much better in terms of money but I've actually heard of them. And then the mad dogg brand original spinner bikes, which vary in price but since I've heard that they coined the name spinning I assume they have something more going on there. I'm leanin towards the spinning brand because they have some lower priced bikes but I intend to not just sit but do the harder rides sk I'm looking for one that is sturdy and can take the harder workouts. Please give your opinion if you actually have or have used a spinning bike not just where I should be looking. Thanks!

Answer
Spinning is trademarked because of the type of training that the instructors must go through in order to teach the classes, it really doesn't have anything to do with the equipment, it is just a brand name. I taught classes on Schwinn's and Lemond's for 5 years and didn't have any real problems with either of them. I would say that the Lemond's were a little higher quality and included cadence monitors. I read in a magazine that Lance was coming out with a spinning bike. I haven't heard any reviews, but it looks interesting. Below is the link. Also, one of my favorite indoor rides has always been on Cycleops (link below) They are ultra smooth and sturdy for out of the saddle sprints. I don't have as much experience with "Spinning" bikes because I never spent the money to get certified, but I've heard that it's no different than Schwinn and AGS certifications.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What is spinning? Exercise..?

Steph

I have an indoor exercise bike, could i use this for spinning?

and what exactly would a spinning routine include?

how would I do it myself?

sorry for all the questions, any help would be great!

:)

Answer
Yes - a spin class is an indoor cycling class on a stationary bike. You can do it at home, though if you have no experience, I would recommend going to a sin class at a gym where they will teach you how to set the bike properly, and will then teach you how to work out properly on the bike. A qualified instructor can help you figure out what a good pace is, depending on your level of fitness, and you will learn how to properly alternate climbing, accelarting and "resting". A class can also teach you which stretches are important to perform after a good spin. Once you've taken a class, it will easy and satisfying to spin at home.

If a class doesn't appeal to you, you might also consider a spinning workout video to help you get started.

That being said, spinning might be as simple as going for a bike ride, if you are not looking for someone to help teach you to pace accelaration or climbing.

can you tell me what he's saying in this video??--my speakers dont work?

=]

its from biggest looser, and unfortunately my speakers dont work..please just sum it for me =]


http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/health/biggest-loser-club-burn-baby-burn-289775/

Answer
"I LOVE THE SPINNING BIKE!
it is one of the best exercises that you can give your body ask any single contestant that has been on the biggest loser. let me tell you some of the benefits
it gets your weight off of your knees and you ankles. and let me tell you at the biggest loser that is one of the best things to be able to do because there is so much pressure with all the weight on their knees and their joints. this will also burn at least 500 calories in 30 minutes.
its like riding a bike out on the road but w/o all the terrain and you can get the best workout and one of the best sweats you have ever gotten on a spin bike. i even teach a spin class here in california i have been doing it for idk 100 years. i don't want to feel like i could ever give that thing up because i love it i love the people i love the energy. for me, its like tapping into the inner athlete that we all have. you get into that spinning room its dark the music is loud, i'm yelling and screaming. it is intoxicating. go to your gym get a class schedule, jump on one of these spin bikes and get back to me. you're going to be soar and you are going to love it."

lol i know you didn't ask me to do that.
but yeah..

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

Where to buy a cheap mountain bike in London?

mael

I wanna buy a cheap (below 100 pounds) men mountain bike in London. I precise that I don't need top quality, simply a basic one. The only stores I could find with real cheap prices are Halfords and Sportsdirect.
While I could find online many bad reviews on Halfords, I have no idea about sportsdirect.
Anybody has experience with one of those? Are the bikes decent? Alternatively, do you know any other store?

Answer
The bikes in halfords the cheaper models are very heavy and the brakes go out of tune very easily and the gears. They all have shimano gearing which is a good start but they would be one of the lower grades of derailleurs made by shimano. If you could spend a little bit more go for a carrea bike in halfords I have there racing bike and it's fantastic for the price apart from the seat and pedals in which I changed for about 50 euro.

Not all the bikes in halfords are bad some are very good but as with everything you get what you pay for if you buy a cheap model you get cheaper components which will not perform as well as other bikes. look into the hybrid bikes which will give you a faster speed on roads compared to mountain bike tyres and an important thing as well you don't want to get a bike with suspension as you will not get your full power with every spin of your pedals the suspension will bend taking some of the power.

Best of luck in finding your bike.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Can anyone give me knowledge on spinning stationary bikes? particularly in the area of shopping for one?

rachel

hello, im looking to buy a spinning stationary bike, one of the expensive ones .. what are the top brands etc?

Answer
Get an entry level road bike and install it on an indoors trainer. That will allow you to take it out when the weather is nice.

The stationary bikes are heavy and much more expensive than a decent road bike.

What road bike to buy?

foot_balle

Hi I am looking to buy a road bike. I have been riding and racing mountain bikes for years and have never been on a road bike. Last week I took my friends road bike for a spin and now I am hooked. I am looking to buy an entry level road bike. I want a bike with components that are better than tiagra preferably 105 or better. I am looking to spend as little as possible on the bike. I am thinking like 800 to 1000 however if I see something way better for like 100 or 200 more would do it obviosly if i can get what I want for less that would be better So im looking for suggestions on what to buy thanks

Answer
There are a lot of cool road bikes in the $1000-1200 range that you really might like. Here are some ideas for you.

FELT's F85 - Aluminum frame w/ 105 component set. Has a short wheelbase for quick handling. Classic geometry.

TREKS 2.1 - Aluminum frame w/ a mix of 105 and Tiagra and FSA components. A little more upright than some other roadbikes, so not a racer but really good for crosstraining with your buds.

GT GTR series 3 - Aluminum Frame, Sora components. Also more of an upright and "comfort" ride compared to other road bikes with its short top tube.

MARIN Venezia - Aluminum frame/ Tiagra/Sora components, tight wheel base, with a short top tube so it is easier to find a nice comfortable position, and a decreased head-tube angle, so no funny business while descending. An excellent first road bike probably.

Almost all of these bikes have an older brother with a component upgrade.... but you'll pay much more money.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

TRIATHLON- my first time, need Advice!?

Kittymommy

OK.. i'm 26y F, decided to do a triathlon! I am pretty fit, although i do not work out on a daily basis, and i rarely play sports. I have begun to train, but i am quickly losing motivation. How likely is it for me to be able to do this triathlon by Feb 2009. Currently i can only run a mile in 10 min at best! I DONT want to win the race, just finish! =)

What are some tips on how i should work out? What training? How often? Is it okay if i am not totally 100% athletic? I have never competed in anything like this before!!

I really want to do this, but i am afraid of looking like an idiot in last place. lol...

Thanks! =)

Answer
Don't worry about looking like an idiot. Just being in the race and giving it a try is good enough! Even if you don't finish you are in elite company. It is more than 99% of the population has done! Do your best and be proud of your efforts!

Hopefully you will enter a short distance sprint triathlon, about 1/4 mi swim, 10-20 mi bike, 2-3 mi run. There are many ways to work out and prepare. I would suggest alternating the three events, one a day, twice a week. For example, Monday-swim, Tuesday-bike, Wednesday-run, Thursday-swim, Friday-bike, Saturday-run, Sunday-off. But be ready to make adjustments if you don't feel results, or if you get bored. Everybody is different. Only you know what is right for you!

Start off the swimming with a few 50-yard laps at low speed, say 1-2 minutes per 50 yards. Take 1-2 minutes between laps. After a few days you should be able to do 100-yard laps keeping the same pace. You should try to build your basic endurance, rhythm, and technique. Eventually you should be able to do an entire 1/4-mile (440 yards) in about 10 minutes or less. If you really want to work at it, try doing 1/2-mile in 20 minutes or so.

Start off running at a comfortable pace. I think you should try to build basic endurance by slowly increasing your distance, and concentrate on speed later. A 10-minute pace should be comfortable and you should be able to build to 3 miles fairly quickly.

I don't know what kind of bike you have, but whatever you have should be good enough as long as it is safe. You don't need a fancy bike to compete. Be sure to get a good helmet. And you should get a bike computer. These can be found at any bike store, and I think even Walmart or Target have them. Just get a basic model that costs $25 or so. You need to keep track of your distance, and it helps if you can keep track of your speed and cadence (pedal revolutions per minute). You should ride on flat ground and select a gear where you can comfortably spin at 80 rpm or so. For beginners this should translate to about 12 mph. For starters do this for about 15 minutes, concentrate on holding the speed and cadence as steady as possible. Again you want to build basic endurance, rhythm, and technique. You should be able to gradually increase your distance and speed, and eventually you should be able to cover about 15 miles in one hour. If you run into headwinds or uphill grades, be ready to shift into an easier gear. Or if you are feeling lean and mean, stay in gear, grit your teeth, and gut it out. It builds character!

Once you get to the point where you can do all your events separately for twice the distance you plan to compete, try to string the three events together. But be careful, because biking after a swim is very hard, then running after that is even harder. Cut your distances the first few times you string them together, then build up from there. Hopefully by race day you can do twice the distance in all three events when you string them together. This will give you extra confidence for race day.

For nutrition, there are many ways to go. There are successful low carb triathletes and vegetarian triathletes. But I think most triathletes use a low-fat high-carb approach. The Mediterranean, Okinawan, or USDA food pyramid are examples of this approach. Make sure you get enough calories for energy. You should emphasize whole grains, potatoes, pasta, rice, corn, fresh vegetables and fruits, legumes, and nuts. Limit meat to 4 oz per day of chicken breast or fish. Use olive oil or canola oil. Go easy on dairy products. Eliminate fast food, junk food (chips, snacks, ice cream), and processed food (frozen dinners) as much as possible. But don't forget to reward yourself to your favorite sinful food once or twice a month. For me these rewards help maintain motivation.

Below is a link to a great website on athletic nutrition.

Relax and have fun at the race. Talk to the other competitors to get training ideas. Enjoy the satisfaction of doing something few other people have the guts to even try. Good training and good luck!

What do I need to consider when purchasing my first Road Bike?

Mr. Nice G

I have an upcoming 45 mile bike ride for charity in October so I'm looking to buy a road bike soon to start training. Ultimately I would like to use this bike to enter a triathlon down the road. What kinds of things should i consider when buying a road bike and how much could I expect to spend? I really don't have a lot to spend but I don't want to cheap out either. If anyone could give me some advice that would be great, thanks!
I wouldn't want to go over $500.00 ideally. But after doing my initial research I think I would be willing to go up to up to around $700.00 if I really liked a bike.

Answer
My first road bike was a Trek 1200, it was an excellant starter bike. I paid around $700.00. I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and try several bikes, Trek, Specialized and Giant to name a few. The bike must feel good and comfortable. Take it for a spin. In addition make sure that the you are fitted to your new bike. This is very important for comfort and getting the most out of your new bike . The bike will become an extension of you just like your car .If you're thinking of going in triathlons the bikes I named above are very good for starters. Its better to spend a few bucks and get a good bike that will perform well and you are confortable riding than buying a cheap bike that will be a pain in the rear !Good luck!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Mountain bike shoes or road shoes?

lilonstitc

I take cycling (spinning) classes, and have been for the last 3 years. I have just acquired a pair of shoes for this class (I am not sure what kind they are). They are nike womens cycling shoes. They are used. I would like to buy a new pair but should I get a road shoe or mountain bike shoe? I have this issue with my shoes now where if I am in the climb position to long the balls of my feet go numb. I am thinking maybe it is because my toes don't have enough room. But my main question is which shoe should I buy for cycling (spinning) classes. thanks!
They are spd cleats. I can get spd cleats for either kind of shoe. Just not sure which shoe is best for a spinning class.

Answer
I am an avid road cyclist, and spins in the off season or when the weather is crappy. I wear mountain bike shoes to spin in, and road shoes when I am on the bike.

If you are not a cyclist, you can get by with mountain bike shoes. However, there are spinning shoes as well. They are a lot lighter than mountain bike shoes. Either way you go, I highly recommend that you get a pair. Road are a lot lighter than mountain bike shoes, and spinning shoes are lighter than mountain bike shoes.

Shoes for indoor cycling?

Celestis

Even if I research online - seems that there are different types as far as the sole goes and the holes, some have four, others three....which one is right for indoor cycling? I've been going to spin class at my gym and lots of people there have them..

Answer
Most indoor spinning bikes have Shimano SPD style cleats. Those cleats have two bolt holes. Any road shoe that supports the two-bolt cleats will work. The three hole cleats are for the Look or Shimano SPD-SL systems. You can't use the bottom two of the three holes for the SPD cleats. The spacing is wrong. Some shoes support both systems -- they have 5 holes.

Road shoes are the best for this type of use, especially since you won't be walking on them very much.

HTH

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Will low gearing on a cyclocross bike used for flat races hinder me? If so can I change the gear system easil?

Emily

I'm thinking of getting a fast, responsive and light cyclocross bike for:

City cycling - (every day)
Occasional Triathlons - (2 a year)
Triathlon club rides - (once a month)
Light tours of no more than few hours - (a few times a year)

My worry is that I read the gearing on a cyclocross bike is low. Does this mean I won't be able to go very fast on flat races?

Is the low gearing on a cyclocross bike lower than on a hybrid bike?

I like to be in a high gear on my current hybrid bike when I'm cycling fast, say down a hill or along a flat when there's not much wind. However, I am told that I have a bad habit of using the high gears and that I should take notice of good cadence so perhaps I shouldn't be using the high years.

If any of you think that low gearing is a problem on a cyclocross bike that would hinder my speed, then is there anything I can do to change the gears so that I can go into higher gears?

Answer
Low gearing is not bad for you. Learning to spin, that is keep a high pedal rate or "cadence" is efficient. Lance Armstrong won the Tour De France all those times over Jan Ulrich because he could spin and Jan didn't. It's how Greg LeMond won the TDF 2x as well (look it up)

In many races if you are under a certain age you have to use lower gearing. It's to keep you from hurting yourself and to teach you good form. Low gearing also reduces the stress your knees take. This in the long run is a good thing.

A cyclocross bike will certainly handle be plenty strong for what you're talking about. You can also look into something called a sport-touring or club racer. These are bikes that strike a great balance between sportiness and comfort. Club racers are an under rated class of bike and deserve your attention. Plus how the bike fits you is most crucial. A properly fitting bike makes much better use of your energy and is more comfortable to ride. A good example is the Trek Portland model. There are others, this is just a very visible one.

What do you think about the LeMond RevMaster Spin bike? How do you think it compares to the other spin bikes?

tcjtivo

I may be changing gyms. The one catch is that the new gym has LeMond RevMaster spin bikes. They are a bit older but in decent shape. Spinning classes are a priority for me. I tried a class with the LeMond and it was just so different than the other bikes that I'm used to, like the Star Trac and Johnny G's, etc. I just don't know if I can adjust and most importantly keep the mental motivation up to reach my goals. What are your thoughts? Thanks for any and all help that you can give me.

Answer
I won't ride on anything that has "LeMond" on it.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

I want to buy a commercial spin bike?

Velvet

what is the best king to buy and why? I have never used one before and think I might get in to it.

Answer
I would check the local ebay, craig's list and paper for a used one. People buy these things all the time and give it up after a few weeks. They can get pretty boring but if you stick with it they are not too bad. I use a trainer in the Winter and ride the real thing once it gets nice. I real bike is a lot more fun and you can put them on a trainer when the weather gets bad.

Should I buy a spin bike or join a gym?

Davis L

I have a treadmill and a weight bench currently at my house and was thinking of getting a spin bike since it is less toiling on the body. Or I was thinking of joining a gym, but I hate going to the gym by myself.
I have considered a bike but right now its too cold and also with a spin bike i could keep my heart rate at the desired level so i can lose weight. thats my main focus.

Answer
How much do you use the treadmill and lift weights ? If you don't use them very much chances are the exercise bike wont get used either. If you have a bike get a trainer to put it on. Check out the local ebay and Craig's list for a trainer or exercise bike. People buy those things all the time and never use them. You can buy a bike and trainer for the price of a gym membership and enjoy it more. Spinning gets old fast but is a lot more bearable if you do it to improve your cycling. Try a few spin classes you may like them.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What is a good exercise bike?

baminn88

I am looking to get back into shape and want to get a bike.My bf would also be using it and he is already in shape so i need something that would be a challenge for him as well

Answer
Get a spin bike something like this will work. The problem with stationary bikes is the boredom, a 30 min routine feels like hours. Get a real bike and get on the road or rail trails and have a lot more fun. You can always put the bike on a trainer in the winter or when the weather gets bad.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Health-Fitness-Indoor-Cycling/dp/B002CVU2HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328830580&sr=8-1

Can you do a spinning exercise routine with a regular stationary bike?

cdanie11e

Answer
Probably. It might be a little clumsy, because you can't change the resistance quite as quickly as you can on a spinning bike.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Spin bike routine questions?

Nuggs

i just got a spin bike for home use and i was wondering how many times a week i should use it. if each time i use it for 45-60 mins?

Answer
As often as you can, as hard as you can, as long as you can.
It depends on what your overall fitness goal is.
If you're just looking to burn calories, then the more you do it, the more calories you burn, the more weight you lose.
If you're looking to replace road riding and build up endurance, then it's probably better to do it as long as you can before you get winded. But personally, I don't think this is really effective, because there is no way I'm going to sit on a spin trainer for 2-3 hours straight.
If you're looking to stress your legs and increase muscle mass, then doing some all out intervals for 40-60 minutes 3-4 times a week should be good. In this case, you should feel some significant soreness the following day afterwards. Otherwise, you're not going to stress your muscles enough to encourage growth.

what is the best spin bike on the market?(for home use, and around $500)?

mikeandmel

I'm looking into a multisports-360.

Answer
One of the criteria. I look for is Max User Weight
The multisports-360 is 275 lbs. It usually an indictor of durablity and stability. If you plan to ride a lot, you're better off going with a more durable, more stable exercise bike.

Dont have one myself. I just walk now days.


Multisports ENC-360 Endurocycle

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Accuracy of bike computers while on trainer?

Anomaly 17

Last night I rode my bike for the duration of the movie Juno, including previews, which is at least 100 minutes. I have a computer attached to the back wheel, but I am really questioning the accuracy, as I cannot believe that I rode under ten miles in that length of time. When I ride outside for that long I do at least 15 including a five minute or so rest stop, a few stop lights, and some hills.

I know the computer is set properly as I have gauged it against my car odometer, so I am curious if having to ride in a really low gear due to the friction of the trainer would have an affect on the mileage read by the computer? I have a triple chain ring in front and ride on the smallest (first gear) in the front and one of the biggest in the back (2nd or 3rd), and sometimes go harder to emulate riding a hill, but only for a few minutes.

So is it me just riding slow or is it the computer??

Answer
Riding your normal road ride in a lower gear than you are used to would almost certainly result in a slower ride unless you spin the pedals faster to compensate, so the same thing applies on a trainer.
It is quite difficult to maintain a constant momentum for a prolonged period of time on a trainer if you are not used to it, and to approach an equivalent time/distance on a trainer to that which you do on the road it is necessary to try to replicate your road gearing, or you must pedal faster in a lower gear, speed is all about pedal revolutions whether you are on the road or on a trainer.
A 100 minute session on a trainer is much harder than 100 minutes on the road, there is no wind, no downhill sections, no short freewheeling periods, it requires 100% effort or you stop ! You would probably get more benefit from the trainer with shorter rides and a more concentrated effort, using the same gearing as you use on the road, or spinning a lower gear, (you could try counting the pedal revs you do per minute on the road, and then try and do the same revs on the trainer, obviously using the same gear as you use on the road).
If your computer is accurate on the road, there is no reason for it to be any different on a trainer, providing your bike is properly attached and making good contact with the roller, and that your tyre pressure is sufficiently hard.

Will a bike computer work on an indoor trainer?

me

I am planning on buying an indoor bicycle trainer so that i can ride my bike it my house when it is too cold out. I want to keep track of my speed and how far i am going, so figured i would get a cheap Bell one. I am just curious is it will work since it is a different set up. Thanks for your help!

Answer
It will work, but you have to install the sensor on the rear wheel, the only one that spins. The wireless computers sometimes don't get the signal from the back, so get a wired one. A cheap one will work but get one with cadence counter. That is a very important tool for your training. It will tell you cadence, current speed, average speed speed, max speed, distance for the ride, distance for the week, total distance (odo), and time. I use a cateye. since there are two sensor, one for the wheel and one for the crank, you may want to see if the shop will install it for free or a small fee. If you don't have a trainer yet, I recommend the Kinetic by Kurt fluid. It mimics going in a slight incline. I paid less than that at my local bike shop.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/essex_deluxe.htm

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Is the Honda VF1000R a good bike?

Timpala

For some reason I have fallen in love with the old mid 1980's Honda VF1000R. Does anyone know about this bike good or bad? I love everything about the look. The Red White & Blue, the tail lights, the head lights etc... Any other suggestions of a similar bike are welcomed. Here is a link to a photo of what I am talking about: http://www.classicsportbikesforsale.com/400/ Also, I just wanted to add that I have been riding for years. Please don't send me "beginner" bike ideas. Thanks!

Answer
In the mag mentioned below, there was a brief write up on VF1000R's. Basically, the writer contacted a previous owner of a VF1000R he was thinking of buying. The bloke had several VF's he worked on himself & wrote back to him mentioning the faults he had encountered;
'Cam lobes can pit/flatten - there is a mod for this. Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs can clog if bike is stood, a pain to clean. Spark boxes can go, also Voltage Regulators - Electrex make a replacement for the VReg. Sometimes a rod bearing can spin'
Similar bikes? Can't think of any V-4's offhand, guess some straight 4's from the era - ZZR1100 or Honda Blackbird - would have similar power & speed, but not torque.

PS the UK mag Practical Sportsbike had a write up/test of them in the Oct 2012 issue. It mentioned a worldwidw owners forum vr1000r.com

can you help me with my bike problem?

Adam D

im going to be riding my bike a lot more now, and i think my front disc break is slightly buckled. i took it to a bike shop but the guy has done nothing to it!!

when i ride the bike it starts making a loud scraping noise and it is really annoying and embarrising and so i have resorted to putting wd40 onto it to lube it up. it still breaks properly but i know its not safe and after about 5miles it wears off and the scrapes begin again.

what can i do?

a link to the bike i have in case it is any help...
http://www.bik3z.co.uk/CROSS%20Rider%2018%20with%20V%20back.htm

Answer
Hi. Disc rotors will buckle, wear and warp over time and the WD40 won't have helped. I'd suggest the following:
1. Clean the rotor thoroughly using a disc friendly cleaner - you can use Muc-Off or Clean Streak White Lightning for example.
2. Remove the pads and check you still have at least 1mm of pad left. If not, replace pads. If you do have pads left, lightly sand the pads to remove contaminants and put back in.
3. Loosen the caliper bolts, apply the brake, and while still holding the brake, re-tighten the bolts. This will align the pads with the rotor.
4. Now pour some water over the whole lot and test them out. If they still scrape, turn bike upside down and spin the wheel, looking at the path of the rotor relative to the pads. If its buckled badly, you should be able to see by eye, and you might consider buying a new rotor. If its slightly buckled, you may be able to bend it back with a spanner, but if you're unsure about this - take it to a shop (probably a different shop).
Hope that helps...

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Looking for customer reviews for Cateye CC-MC100W Micro Wireless 10-Function Bicycle Computer...?

capitman

...(Silver)
Where can I find reviews and opinions online for Cateye CC-MC100W Micro Wireless 10-Function Bicycle Computer (Silver)

Answer
By MikeUm (Twin Cities, MN)
The Micro Wireless is one of the newest additions to the Cay Eye Companies long line of trusted cyclocomputers. I had a hard time choosing between this and a more expensive model with heart rate and cadence.

I decided to go with this and purchased a separate wrist HR monitor for around 25 bucks. It saved a good deal of money and could be the solution to one of your concerns.

If you are looking for a basic model without wireless: I suggest checking out the "Enduro 8"; it is cheaper and has most of the basic features (without wireless and backlight).

With that said: I really like this model, it's smaller and has more features than the Enduro; wireless and back-light. It was easier to setup and quickly switches between bikes (with the purchase of a second mount/sensor kit.)

I broke the computer mount in a minor training collision and Cay Eye sent me a replacement mount for free. I suggest you "defiantly get a cat eye", especially at this price; they have great customer service and make an excellent wireless computer.
(I have used this product for six months.)

By jay kenyon "jayhawkeye2" (LAS VEGAS, NV USA)
the two things you need in a good cyclometer is that it is small and lightweight, but has all the features you need. This one fills both creteria nicely. The unit is small, but is incredibly easy to read and navigate. and, if you are like me, the last cyclometer you owned consisted of a wire running down your fork -- forget it, this one is wireless. It does the job perfectly, at a great price.

By Zzyzx (Burbank, CA United States)
First off, I am a casual biker so I didn't know if I "needed" this or not. Now that I have it, I really dig it!
Mounting the whole thing took me about 20 minutes--15 to read the pictograph directions and 5 to actually put it on. But that is because I am a little cautious and really wanted to do it right the first time. It actually was quite easy because the installation diagram is very detailed, showing exactly which direction the pieces go, in what order, etc. The computer mounts on the handlebar with double-sided tape and cable ties, keeping it plenty tight and secure. The sending device attaches to the fork the same way and is very ingenious the way it reads off the magnet you attach to the spoke.
A little bit harder was programming it the first time, following the menu flow digrams. But after a few minutes it was very intuitive and I got it set up (with mph, wheel size, etc.) and was ready to take it for a test spin. Which is where its greatness was immediately apparent. I followed a route I knew and the odometer was spot on. The elapsed time pauses when you do, the average and max speeds worked great. In fact, this thing is amazing!
So, bottom line, even if you don't think you need one, you'll soon wonder how you got along without it. Well built, high quality, instructions in about 20 languages, fun to use, and practical. Can't beat it.

Funn MTB parts review!?!?

Max

Are the stems any good? The bars? any thing? It looks so damn cool i just have to have it! It would go on a dirt jumping bike

Answer
I have a Rippa stem, V2 (original) seatpost, Full-on bars, and some Fatboy bars....they're all bomb-proof and mine have been through a lot of serious urban abuse. The stem and seatpost are awesome....especially the seatpost. If you get the seatpost be sure to order it with the correct inserts to match your saddle rails. You may go through saddles, but the seatpost will be with you for the rest of your life....really. The newer V3 seatpost is pretty much the same thing with a different look (and Deity's is very similar). If you could see the clamp mechanism you'd be impressed. It's a loop-top with big v-splines that the inserts mate with. You won't ever break it or strip them out. I like the design of the Rippa with the top load design. Atomlab has something similar but I really like the Funn better.

I've also been running their isis bottom bracket and THAT is what I've been most impressed with....I expected it to crap out or break under the abuse I give that bike but it's still holding strong and spinning smooth after lots of rain, big stair gaps, and many 4'-7' drops to flat concrete on an aluminum hardtail, plus a lot of serious bashing (gone through 2 Race Face bashguards). No other isis bottom bracket has lasted me more than 6 months max. If I had to choose another bottom bracket it would be the Race Face freeride, but the Funn has just stunned me so far for an isis design.

I considered getting some of their cranks, but I don't think they're that special except for having the Funn name on it (a bit excessively heavy, too). You can pick up some Hussefelts or Holzfellers on closeout for much less and have as good or better cranks.

There are lots of great products out there. Funn has been around a long time cranking out strong well-made parts, but they're getting harder to find in the U.S. because they can't seem to keep distributors supplied and people drop the line. With a more favorable exchange rate, you can order their stuff from http://www.chainreactioncycles.com ...the shipping is actually really reasonable, so if you can't find it in the U.S. that's not a bad option if you have to have the Funn name. I've ordered from them several times.

Deity, Atomlab, Fire Eye, and Transition all make some killer stuff, too. Transition's stuff comes in colors and they keep the pricing pretty low. If you're not averse to ordering overseas, you should also check out the resurrected Nuke Proof parts. They were big back in the day and then disappeared...the new stuff is made for rough play for sure but I don't think it's available in the U.S. right now.

I'm no expert on Funn, this is just my experience with them. If mine ever break on me, I might buy Funn again, but that would depend on their presence in the U.S. and/or what the warranty period is. I just run BB7 brakes, but if I were to buy Funn's new hydro brakes or use their hubs, this issue would be especially important to me (parts availability and warranty). Honestly I don't think their parts are ever going to fail on me. I like that. :o)

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How does a spin bike differ from a 'regular' exercise bike?

Astromazin

Answer
Spinning is sooo much fun and its great for you. If you havent tried it I suggest you do so. The bike is much differ than a regular bike. You control the amount of resistance with a little knob. Your feet get straped in and the handle is designed to be able to hold on many different ways! Great workout!!!!

spinning bike?

alemv77

Where I can buy spinnign bike in N.J or N.Y..(but in store)

Answer
Giant makes a pretty decent spinning bike too, and any Giant dealer should be able to order it.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/dealers/

Powered by Yahoo! Answers