Do you have to put a download in a 07 softail if you put a after market exhaust on?

p aud

Answer
You don't HAVE to....BUT...it WILL run better. The 96's run extremely lean, which make them run hot, remapping the injection will cool the engine and oil temp and make it run better.
Also, adding an air cleaner, exhaust, and having it TUNED with the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner will give you a an additional 12-15 hp.

Here are some clips from answers to similar questions...

They guys you were talking to are kind of right. With the pipes you are looking at, the bike really does need to have a hi-flo air cleaner put on. The dramatic decrease in restriction and the short length are the reason. Shorter pipes generally cause a drop in power in the low and mid-range, but can be compensated for somewhat by adding a set of Samson Torque Cones. The air cleaner will be needed to let more air in also to help compensate for the increase in exhaust flow. The Screamin Eagle air cleaner is ok, but the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (get the Stage 2 version) is better and about the same price. The S/E uses a shallow, dry filter material similar to a fiber glass mat, the Big Sucker uses a deeper K&N filter that flows considerably more air than the S/E. The stock HD air cleaner is THE most power restricting part on the bike. If you pull off the cover and look at the element, you will see why...it literally starves the engine for air, the reason for this from the factory...EPA NOISE pollution restrictions.
Now this is the MAJOR factor in the situation....DO NOT let anyone talk you into a Power Commander or Vance & Hines Fuel Pak, or ANY type of "piggy back"....FUEL...module!!!
You want the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!
There are several reasons for this.
1. There is almost no room on a Softail to mount an add-on module, it basically get jammed and stuffed under the seat. "piggy back" modules plug in-line between the bikes computer and the wire harness, they are big and bulky and create extra wiring that is a BITCH to mount, route and work around.
2. They do not do anything except control fuel, they have no timing or rev limit adjustments. The Power Commander 5 for 09-up bikes does have an Auto-Tune module that will allow the system to adjust the fuel by itself while you ride...BUT it is an additional couple hundred dollars, and you have to add yet another module to allow for timing adjustments...now you have 2 additional modules to try and figure how and where to mount. All together you will end up having arouns $1000 in modules.

The Screamin Eagle Super Tuner is basically nothing but software that reprograms the stock computer. It is a box that goes between 2 cables that link the bike to a PC. Once the computer is programmed and mapped on the dyno, you unplug it....nothing to mount. DO NOT LOSE THE BOX!!!!....if you do and need further tuning in the future for mods done later, you will have to buy another Tuner. The Tuner, once plugged in to a bike is "married" to that bike only and will not work on any other bikes. The Super Tuner has virtually unlimited tuning capabilites. It will allow for fuel mapping, accelerator pump feature for better throttle response, fully adjustable rev limit (do not rev a Softail past 6200, past that, the balancers spin too fast and can fly apart and destroy the engine), fully adjustable timing advance and curve tables, etc. I was amazed at what this thing can do when I was trained on it.
Having the timing properly set makes all the difference in the world. We tested bikes with stock timing and rev limits that had the fuel dialed in perfect for max power, then loaded in performance timing maps and had gains of 5-15 hp & tq.
And there is one more benefit to the Super Tuner compared to the others....The Tuner is about $400, the same as the others, bt no added expenses from add-on modules...its all built in.

Doing all of this, and having the bike tuned, WILL make it run cooler!!! The Twin Cams run hotter than the older Evo's like Mike has. The reasons are being tuned VERY lean for EPA standards and the Twin Cams use oil jets under the pistons. These jets squirt oil onto the bottom of the piston to help cool it. Stock engines run sooooo lean that they cause excessive heat.....here is the oxymoron....because they are so lean, HD designed the oil jets to cool the pistons....what actually happens is the pistons HEAT the oil!!!....tune the engine, richen it up, and the piston cools down, now, the oil can do its job and cool the piston....double cooling effect. Proper tuning will decreae oil temp by as much as 20-25 degress and promote longer, more reliable engine life...and you will FEEL the power increase.....generally, depending on the bike, combination of pipes and air cleaner, and how good the guy tuning the bike is, you can expect 10-15 hp & tq increase.


The stock ECM is NOT relearn capable, it will only self compensate under the extremely NARROW parameters by which it was programmed...it does this by the use of O2 sensors....NEVER EVER eliminate the O2 sensors!!!!!

V&H Fuel Pack, Ness Fuel Controller....are junk!!!..........Read below........it is answer to another similar question regarding injection tuning, also included is info on oil to help run COOLER...cooler + better performance.......Due to the EXTREMELY LIMITED mounting space for add-on "piggy-back" fuel controllers on a Softail.....I HIGHLY AND STRONGLY recommend the Sreamin Eagle Super Tuner.....it is only software that reprograms the ECM with nothing needing to be mounted to the bike. The Super Tuner will allow for infinite adjustments to the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, rev-limiter, acellerator pump feature, engine decel enleanment to eliminate exhaust popping, etc.

And to make it run BETTER & COOLER.......here is some info on proper tuning........an answer to a previous question......

DO YOU HAVE A HI-FLO AIR CLEANER AND PIPES ON THE BIKE???.....IF SO, DID YOU HAVE THE ECM REMAPPED BY HD OR HAVE A SUPER TUNER OR POWER COMMANDER ON IT????...........THIS IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
HD'S ARE SET UP TO RUN VERY VERY LEAN DUE TO EPA REGULATIONS!!!!!!! RUNNING LEAN CAUSES THE ENGINE TO RUN HOT!!!!!!........THERE ARE OIL JETS THAT SQUIRT OIL ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE PISTON TO COOL THE PISTON.....THIS HEATS UP THE OIL..........RICHEN IT UP, THE PISTON WILL RUN COOLER....THE OIL WILL RUN COOLER.
Even if the bike is COMPLETELY STOCK.......have HD do a Stage 1 download to the ECM......if you have a Power Commander or Super Tuner on the bike..........get it dyno TUNED.....it will increase your performance and make the engine run OPTIMALLY..................her... is some info about "downloads compared to the Super Tuner.......
You want the Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER!!!!.......and have it Dyno TUNED.....don't sttle for just having the base map loaded. The difference between being tuned and a base map is like night and day. The base maps are just that...a base to which to work form. Every engine is as individaul as we are as humans, they each require a little finesse and tuning to make them perform optimally. The Super Tuner will also allow for easier tuning for any future upgrade you may make.
A Stage 1 download is nothing more than a GENERIC map from HD that is "ok" for all bikes....this is CRAP!!!......the Stage 1 download was specifically made for a HD with Screamin Eagle Mufflers and Air Cleaner......not all mufflers (or complete exhaust systems) flow exactly the same and not all Air Cleaners flow exactly the same...meaning, if you change ANYTHING on the exhaust and intake that the Stage 1 was not designed for, it wil not work as well.....like I said every engine is DIFFERENT.
As far as power output goes....it will vary as to what components are used and how well it is tuned....but on an average from completely STOCK to an upgrade of exhaust/air cleaner, super tuner, about 12-15 horsepower........At how many miles did you start running synthetic? You should never run synthetic until at least 2500.
Which Power Commander was installed....the O2 eliminator ( DO NOT USE THIS!!!...THE O2 SENSORS ARE THERE FOR A REASON....O2 eliminators should ONLY be used for RACING applications!!!!) or the new PC 5 w/ wide band O2 sensors? (The WIDE BAND IS THE BEST fuel controller on the market for Big Twins....BUT requires a fair amount of room to install it along with extra room needed for the add-on ign control module), did you have the separate ADJUSTABLE IGNTION MODULE AND/OR AUTO TUNE MODULE (09-newer) installed also....this will HELP ALOT!!!!....the HD Super Tuner is good, but it runs narrow band O2 sensors (i like these for Sportsters because there is no module to install and conceal).....BUT it does have ignition adjustments the PC doesn't have by itself (have to add it extra with the PC5).
Either way, it sounds like you need to have the bike properly tuned....if they just simply loaded a map....that is NO GOOD...a map is just a starting point for proper tuning.
You air cleaner...did you mean BIG SUCKER???...if so good choice.....the Screamin EEagle air cleaner is way better than stock HD.....but does not hold a candle to the DEEPER K&N filter Ness uses......GOOD CHOICE.

looking to put on true dual rinehart exhaust on my 07 ultra classic any pros or cons?

bubba

i heard it doesnt give off as much heat with true duals

Answer
That system is a pretty decent performer...BUT....You WILL need to remap the injection with an exhaust change of that degree...a hi-flo air cleaner should also be added if it hasn't aleady been done.
HD's "Stage 1 Download" will NOT be sufficient for this system...you will need the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner and have it DYNO TUNED....

you can email me here through my profile if you ahve any questions...I also have some other recommendations I could make, but not enough room here...

An answer to a similar question..
They guys you were talking to are kind of right. With the pipes you are looking at, the bike really does need to have a hi-flo air cleaner put on. The dramatic decrease in restriction and the short length are the reason. Shorter pipes generally cause a drop in power in the low and mid-range, but can be compensated for somewhat by adding a set of Samson Torque Cones. The air cleaner will be needed to let more air in also to help compensate for the increase in exhaust flow. The Screamin Eagle air cleaner is ok, but the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (get the Stage 2 version) is better and about the same price. The S/E uses a shallow, dry filter material similar to a fiber glass mat, the Big Sucker uses a deeper K&N filter that flows considerably more air than the S/E. The stock HD air cleaner is THE most power restricting part on the bike. If you pull off the cover and look at the element, you will see why...it literally starves the engine for air, the reason for this from the factory...EPA NOISE pollution restrictions.
Now this is the MAJOR factor in the situation....DO NOT let anyone talk you into a Power Commander or Vance & Hines Fuel Pak, or ANY type of "piggy back"....FUEL...module!!!
You want the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!
There are several reasons for this.
1. There is almost no room on a Softail to mount an add-on module, it basically get jammed and stuffed under the seat. "piggy back" modules plug in-line between the bikes computer and the wire harness, they are big and bulky and create extra wiring that is a ***** to mount, route and work around.
2. They do not do anything except control fuel, they have no timing or rev limit adjustments. The Power Commander 5 for 09-up bikes does have an Auto-Tune module that will allow the system to adjust the fuel by itself while you ride...BUT it is an additional couple hundred dollars, and you have to add yet another module to allow for timing adjustments...now you have 2 additional modules to try and figure how and where to mount. All together you will end up having arouns $1000 in modules.

The Screamin Eagle Super Tuner is basically nothing but software that reprograms the stock computer. It is a box that goes between 2 cables that link the bike to a PC. Once the computer is programmed and mapped on the dyno, you unplug it....nothing to mount. DO NOT LOSE THE BOX!!!!....if you do and need further tuning in the future for mods done later, you will have to buy another Tuner. The Tuner, once plugged in to a bike is "married" to that bike only and will not work on any other bikes. The Super Tuner has virtually unlimited tuning capabilites. It will allow for fuel mapping, accelerator pump feature for better throttle response, fully adjustable rev limit (do not rev a Softail past 6200, past that, the balancers spin too fast and can fly apart and destroy the engine), fully adjustable timing advance and curve tables, etc. I was amazed at what this thing can do when I was trained on it.
Having the timing properly set makes all the difference in the world. We tested bikes with stock timing and rev limits that had the fuel dialed in perfect for max power, then loaded in performance timing maps and had gains of 5-15 hp & tq.
And there is one more benefit to the Super Tuner compared to the others....The Tuner is about $400, the same as the others, bt no added expenses from add-on modules...its all built in.

Doing all of this, and having the bike tuned, WILL make it run cooler!!! The Twin Cams run hotter than the older Evo's like Mike has. The reasons are being tuned VERY lean for EPA standards and the Twin Cams use oil jets under the pistons. These jets squirt oil onto the bottom of the piston to help cool it. Stock engines run sooooo lean that they cause excessive heat.....here is the oxymoron....because they are so lean, HD designed the oil jets to cool the pistons....what actually happens is the pistons HEAT the oil!!!....tune the engine, richen it up, and the piston cools down, now, the oil can do its job and cool the piston....double cooling effect. Proper tuning will decreae oil temp by as much as 20-25 degress and promote longer, more reliable engine life...and you will FEEL the power increase.....generally, depending on the bike, combination of pipes and air cleaner, and how good the guy tuning the bike is, you can expect 10-15 hp & tq increase.

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where can you buy a spin bike seat online?

Elly

I'm in Australia.
A little while ago i bought a (stationary) spin bike and the seat on it has given me a fair bit of pain/numbness downstairs, even after adjusting. After checking i found that the seat the bike came with appears to be a men's seat and i would need a women's seat. i checked the site where i bought the bike from and it doesn't sell seats. i've been looking but i can't find anywhere that sells spin bike seats.
would i be wrong in assuming that if i bought a bike saddle like this one http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Planet-Bike-Saddle-Standard-Silver-Women_181 that i would be able to fit it to the stand where the seat attaches or would it work differently for a regular bike and a spin bike?
any help would be much appreciated :)

Answer
It would help if you told us the model of the bike you have since different seat attachments are used.

That said, it is almost certain you can use/adapt a regular bike seat to fit.

There are two common ways to attach a seat. The first is via the rails on the bottom of the seat, and if your bike has a standard stem arrangement this is simple. See the first link for a picture.

The second is via a clamp that tightens around a seat post. The latter is more common on many consumer spin bikes. If you have this type of bike you will need a clamp that fits whatever seat post you have on the bike AND has an upper clamp to fit the rails on a regular seat (See picture at 2nd link). You may have this already. The way to tell is to see if the seat on the bike has rails under the seat surface.

If in doubt, take the seat and post from your bike to a local bike shop and ask them to help.

I suggest a woman's Terry Liberator seat (See 3rd link)... my wife loves them.

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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Spin Cycle Class?

...

I am going to start a spin class, I am guy what do you recomend to wear, I believe you need the spin shoes, which is a good brand and where can I buy them, also as far as using them and setting up is it hard?

Answer
That can depend on what type of pedals they have available on the spin cycles. Normal pedals are plastic platform pedals with a rubber strap to hold your foot down. Not much you do with those other than use regular athletic shoes. Many better equipped spin classes will have clippless pedals that you can bring your own cycling shoes. Most of these are Shimano SPD style of pedals which use a small metal cleat on the bottom of the cycling shoe. If they have that style of pedal that is what I would use because there is a wide range of cycling shoes to choose from and they are pretty simple to set up. If you plan to use the shoes for anything beyond the spin class then I would get a half way decent pair of shoes which will probably run you between $50 on the low end to well over $100 on the high end. You can get moutain bike style of shoes which look kind of like a hiking shoe or you can get a road style of shoe, but those will be more difficult to walk in. Ideally you want to get a shoe with as stiff a sole as possible because this will allow better transfer of power and energy when you ride/spin. The cleat usually comes with pedals you buy for a bicycle, but you can purchase them seperately at most bike shops. Installing them and adjusting them can be a little tricky, but most bike shops will install the cleats on your shoes for a nominal fee (usually no more than $10-$20). Sometimes if you buy the pedals and shoes together a bike shop will install the cleats for you free of charge. When using the shoes you should wear a thin pair of socks as anything thick will not breathe well and sometimes cause blisters. Most bike shops carry a wide selection of cycling socks and they can range from $8-$10 a pair.

Hope this helps and happy spinning!

EDIT: Forgot to mention cycling shorts. If you haven't already invested in a good pair of cycling shorts I HIGHLY recommend it. They will run you between $35-$75 and they will make a HUGE difference on the comfort level of your ride/spin. You can get more traditional riding shorts like you see serious cycling enthusiasts ride, but if those aren't your style you can also get cycling shorts that look mor like regular walking shorts (although those probably won't be as comfortable over a longer ride or spin class). Cycling shorts are designed not to be worn with underwear as underwear tends to ride up in sensitive areas, but if that is not something you are comfortable with there are companies that make undergarments specifically designed to be worn with cycling shorts. For upper body you can either wear a regular T-Shirt or workout shirt, but if you're willing to spend the money I would recommend a cycling jersey instead. A cycling jersey will run you anywhere between $30 on the low end to $75 on the high end. Cycling jerseys are made of special fabrics that disapate heat and moisture much more efficiently and effecitively than cotton does. So you will feel much cooler and not as damp as you would in a regular cotton shirt.

McG: I haven't been to one in a few years, but I had good friend of mine that used to lead one and I would sit in hers a couple times a week. Maybe it was just the club I was at, but most of the people in that class wore at least cycling shorts and about half of them wore some sort of cycling jersey (or no shirt at all -- for the men at least). For me I wouldn't even think about sitting on any bicycle -- stationary or not -- for more than 20 minutes without cycling shorts. But hey, I don't judge. To each their own. Cheers!

What are the best cycling shoes?

syanew2000

I have recently found a new hobby. Spinning at the gym. Most of the people in the class have special bike shoes. Do they really make a difference and what are the best shoes to look at with a budget of $100?
I don't like to buy really cheap things that wear out super fast. That's why I gave myself the $100 budget. Also the shoes will only be worn indoors at the gym so I don't see the need to get too fancy.
Ummm yes what? You didn't answer any question.

Answer
A good fitting pair of cycling shoes will enhance your cycling twofold.

Cycling shoes (whether they are MTB or Road) have a much stiffer sole than trainers(you might call them sneakers). this avoids 'Hotspots' on the foot which become uncomfortable!

Secondly, its easier to cycle in circles with cleated cycling shoes as your shoes are clipped to the pedals.

As for 'The Best Cycling Shoes' - I use Shimano RO99 but it's like anything, - It may suit me but not you.

My advice: Go to a cycle shop (or two) and try some out to see what suits you, Tip- get a size bigger as feet do swell with hard cycling!

Best of luck.

.

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whats a better workout spinning classes or riding a bike?

sassy

whats better for losing wieght and whats faster?

Answer
There is no reason not to do both. The spin classes will help make you stronger and is a more intense workout that uses you fast twitch muscles. Fast twitch muscles use glycogen as a fuel and need time to heal. That is why you don't want to do it every day.

Riding a bike at a high cadence 70-90 rpm's with a lite pressure on the pedals will use your slow twitch muscles that use fat as a fuel. That will allow you to go longer and burn more calories. Slow twitch muscles recover quickly and you can go cycling every day.

The fastest way to lose weight is to take long rides and pedal at a speed where you are breathing hard enough to still be able to talk but not sing. If you need to catch your breath or your legs start to burn reduce the resistance by dropping down a gear or two and keep going.
If you have to stop because your legs are giving out you are not doing it right.

At the gym what are "SPINNING CLASSES"?

Pie

Answer
Spinning is a form of interval training which uses specialized exercise bikes. The bikes typically have a weighted flywheel that is directly coupled to the pedals. This means that when you pedal, the wheel turns, if you stop peadalling, the wheel stops. Or, another way of putting it is, if you start pedalling very fast with minimal resistance, if you relax your legs, the pedals will keep turning.

The class is typically set to music, and the music and the group setting, along with the instructor's energy and motivation assist in helping members finish the class.

As for what occurs in the class, you typically start with a warm up to get your heart rate up a little. Then you go through various "drills."

The drills can include normal pedalling with light resistance, sprinting with minimal resistance (pedalling as fast as possible), jumps (pedalling high speed while seated for three or four revolutions, then pedalling high speed while standing for three or four revolutions, and repteaing), hill climbs (pedalling with high resistance while standing, and increasing the resistance periodically), and more.

It's a very intense, self-paced workout. If you are looking to change up your cardio, try taking a few classes.

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How to last through one of those crazy biking classes at the gym?

LedgeWorks

Hey my fiance is dragging me to one of those psycho biking classes at the gym in a couple hours so could I get a few ideas on how to not fry out before the class is finished?? All answers are greatly appreciated!

Answer
I know what you mean. I've taken spin classes for over 10 years and sometimes I have trouble making it to the end.

Here are some of the things I do. If I went really hard for the last song and I'm just fried, then I don't follow the class to the next exercise, I'll take all the resistance off the bike and just spin the pedals for a minute or two to rest and catch my breath and drink some water. This is useful to do if you went out too hard at the beginning of the class. Unlike real biking the rest of the class isn't going anywhere!

The "5 minutes more" strategy. When it is really tough and I want to stop, I just say I'm going to try to go another five minutes and that's it. A lot of times if you can hold on for just a little bit more, you'll be able to make it through the class.

Only go at your own pace, don't pay attention to others in the class. You don't know their fitness level or their goals, so measuring yourself against them won't do you any good.

Practice positive talk. When you are working out hard you have to fight down your fear that you are going to burn-out or you won't make it through the whole class. So actively fight your feelings of fear. Visualize yourself not quiting and what it will feel like to finish strong. Try to keep this image in your mind when the going gets tough for you.

what is this song?

Fuckin' Eu

i know some lyrics...

you won't find anyone just like me

yea so i heard it as part of a spinning (stationary bike) CD with a lotta songs on it. what is it??? i loved it!

Answer
It's probably "Follow Me" by Uncle Kracker. ^_^ Hope I'm of help!!

-liv <3

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Beginner BMX bike question?

halohellbo

I was thinking of getting a BMX bike and trying some flatland tricks.... It will be my first time. I was thinking of spending like 150$ on my first bike. And if I can get pretty good I can get a nice bike. But I was wondering if there is a certain type of BMX bike that I should get for a first time user. And also should it have front brakes? The reason im asking that is because if I have to spin the handle bars a couple of times when im doing a trick wont the brake line get cought up? Anything additional I should know before i go for it?

Answer
you can spin the bars 360 and still have brakes called a gyro theres gyro systems that can have front and back brakes but i personally just like the back brakes or brakeless :) i have a haro x3 nyquist line i like the bike look up some reviews you might like it, its not the lightest bike but you get used to it and start to get it higher and so on

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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What is the best, bang for my buck, spinning bike, for my home?

gomundo

Answer
A regular road bike on a training stand. Say a mid range used model.

Not only is it lower total cost, but it's a better cycling simulator - real bike, adjusted exactly to your fit.

It's what the pros use....

Best spinning (exercise) bike to workout at home?

Jennifer

I just want something that is quiet and good (that will last). I've been looking at "SB700 Bike Light Commercial by SOLE Fitness" but just want to see if anyone else knew of better ones? Thanks in advance!

Answer
In general, Preocor makes the best cardiovascular equipment. Cybex and Octane are pretty good too. I have had a Tectrix (taken over by Cybex since) for about 14 years with very little maintenance.

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Where can I order a spinning bike for my home online?

Justina

I am not looking for anything over the top expensive or overly fancy. Just something that I can hop on and do my thing if I can't get out for a run. Any suggestions on brands etc would be very much welcomed.

Answer
Google spinning bike and you can find all kinds of places.

Spinning Bike (in home)?

Olive Cray

I bought a spin bike and i'm not to fond of the tension, it seems I can ride longer if there is slight tension and not a whole lot.

My question is when I take the tension off, it pulls me, like it makes my legs go around and around.....

Is this still a workout?

Or is this the whole design of the spinner bike to make you pedal?

Answer
A workout is called a workout for a reason. If the bike is doing all the work, you're not working out. There needs to be tension, or it's of no value. 75% of all exercise bikes become a clothes rack within 4 weeks after they're bought.

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Workout Music for Spinning?

mellybell1

I need some good workout music. That is not all chick. I got my husband talked into to buying spin bikes and doing it with me. now I need some good music so he will stick to it with me.

Answer
My music interests are extremely varied but when on training runs, I listen to hardcore Techno and Trance music, I can easily find a beat to 'pump those pedals' to!

.

What exactly is a spin class?

Q.

Answer
A class where you ride a stationary bike to music and coaching...bursts of high speed, standing up and pedaling, and then periods of slower, less intense pedaling...

Everyone I've known that took a class said it was a heck of a workout...

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reviews of "nirve beach cruiser" ?? What do you think of the brand "nirve"?

heyy!

Im about to buy a used nirve beach cruiser, what do you think of the brand? are their any questions you think i should ask the seller before i buy?

Answer
Nirve makes good bikes. Visit their web site to check out the model. make sure the frame is the correct size for you. Usually people that spent that much on a bike take care of them. There is not to much that can go wrong with a cruiser. Look for rust or other signs of neglect and take a test ride. Pick the bike up and spin the wheels, they should spin freely and run straight. If the bike looks clean and is the right price it's up to you, it should last a long time if taken care of.

http://www.nirve.com/womens.asp?cat=cruiser

So I plan to buy a fishing rod and reel both separate and want to know whats a good brand for around 150-250$?

Power

I would do fishing off of docks or piers and maybe fish off of my 18ft inflatable boat with 25hp outboard and aluminum floor also my kayak and I might do saltwater or freshwater or both also the odeon will be somewhere in California around outside of either Los Angeles or somewhere in San diago so anyway do you know any good brands around that price range 10 points good informative answer

Answer
Honestly, ONE outfit cannot possibly do "Offshore, Inshore, and Freshwater" fishing.

( Trying to find a "do-everything" fishing outfit is like trying to find ONE tool to do ALL carpentry jobs! A hammer works great for pounding nails- not so great for sinking screws! )

At the very least, you will need 2 outfit's- a designated Freshwater outfit and a designated Saltwater outfit.

Why??

Saltwater and Freshwater fishing (generally) require different line "sizes" (and diameters), different reel sizes, and different rod sizes.

Best (big) brands for Freshwater?- Shimano, Daiwa, Abu Garcia, Pflueger

Best (big) brands for Saltwater?- Shimano, Daiwa, Avet, Abu Garcia, Fin-Nor, Penn

FYI: When buying any outfit the most important part is the REEL. Why? Even a cheap rod, (if properly cared for) can last many seasons- it has no "moving parts". Whereas, a cheap reel is (generally) made with substandard materials. Those cheap materials have a definite "lifespan".

Bottom-line?? Spend 80% of your budgeted allowance on the REEL- not the rod!

Freshwater reels (with reviews)-

#1. Pflueger President (6940 size)- This is the cheapest Freshwater reel available (at this time) with an excellent reputation. The 6940 size could be used for a variety of fish including Bass, Catfish, large Trout, Crappie, Etc (read 177 reviews here)- http://www.basspro.com/Pflueger-President-6900-Series-Spinning-Reels/product/10213341/

#2. Shimano Symetre SY4000FL- Twice as expensive as the Pflueger President, the Shimano Symetre is a well-known workhorse reel that has the added advantage of being able to do light Inshore Saltwater fishing as well as Freshwater fishing. Is it twice as good as the Pflueger??? Probably not in Freshwater- but, again, it will work (and last longer/be more durable) in both Fresh and Saltwater environs. (Light Inshore saltwater fishing for 12-15LB fish) - http://www.basspro.com/Shimano-Symetre-FL-Spinning-Reels/product/1207260456521/

Saltwater Reels (with reviews)-

#1. Fin-Nor OFS (45 size)- If you are leaning toward Saltwater pier and Inshore Saltwater fishing this would be an excellent reel, (period). It is a CNC machined aluminum "tank" built to last a lifetime. You could easily go from Inshore/Pier fishing to light Offshore fishing with this reel- http://www.basspro.com/FinNor-Offshore-Spinning-Reels/product/89192/

#2. Penn Spinfisher SSV (6500 size)- Penn is a well-known saltwater reel/rod manufac. The Spinfisher Series has been around nearly 50 years- http://www.basspro.com/PENN-Spinfisher-SSV-Spinning-Reels/product/1206150826161/

These are good examples of excellent reels. However, there are many reels available in their branded line- so - do some research. You might find one that better suits your needs.

(The reason I didn't include any Conventional or Baitcasting reels??? If you're new to the sport of fishing it's much easier to learn how to utilize and cast a Spinning reel VS any other type of reel. But, if you don't mind a bit of a challenge, by all means, go with either.)


Rods?????? AS mentioned above, you can/could spend ALL of your budget on a nice rod. BUT, if you are a casual fisherman a $100-$200 (plus) rod will be redundant. (Like buying a $3000 Santa Cruz MT bike to beach cruise!)

Realize- Rods generally wear out long before reels- (esp if you intend to fish more than 10-15 times a year). SO, until you get the major " fishing fever" purchasing a cheaper rod would (probably) work best for you......

Freshwater??- A Berkley Lightning Shock Series Rod paired to a Shimano Symetre or Pflueger President would be fine- http://www.basspro.com/Berkley-Lightning-Rod-Shock-Series-Spinning-Rods/product/104159/

Saltwater??- A simple Ugly Stik Tiger Series Rod paired to a Fin-Nor OFS would be fine- http://www.basspro.com/Shakespeare-Ugly-Stik-Tiger-Spinning-Rods/product/22247/

Check here if you want a more expensive rod- http://www.basspro.com/Saltwater-Fishing-Rods/_/S-12100002003

One more tip- When buying a rod get a ONE PIECE model.

Hope this helps? Good luck!

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First time trying spinning?

K

Hi...
I'm really excited to try spinning for the first time! I think I'm going to sign myself up for a class tomorrow. But alot of my close friends said that after their first time their bodies ached to no end and they were completely worn out. I can take a workout, but is it really as dramatically bad as they made it seem or are they just trying to scare me? Also, is it awkward when you're cycling next to someone you don't know at all/hardly know?

Answer
Spinning just might be the toughest cardiovascular workout after cross country skiing. There is no resting, no coasting, and no easy way to flush lactic acid. It will also use some muscles that aren't used to so much workload.

How bad it is will depend a lot on how conditioned your muscles are, especially the little stabilizers that don't get used with a regular bike. You can coast on a regular bike but not on a spinner.

If you can afford a massage after your first class, it wouldn't hurt. It would help flush the lactic acid out of your system that you will build up. Otherwise treat yourself to a hot bath in Epsom salts.

Use your common sense, stay hydrated before and afterward, and don't push too hard your 1st class. Remember, many there have been doing it awhile and you need to build up to their level.

Awkward? Shouldn't be, but that will depend on the group. A good group will be welcoming and helpful. If it doesn't feel right, go elsewhere. It's your money, time, and body. Use it wisely.

Hope your class goes well and have a great time!

Where to buy a cheap mountain bike in London?

mael

I wanna buy a cheap (below 100 pounds) men mountain bike in London. I precise that I don't need top quality, simply a basic one. The only stores I could find with real cheap prices are Halfords and Sportsdirect.
While I could find online many bad reviews on Halfords, I have no idea about sportsdirect.
Anybody has experience with one of those? Are the bikes decent? Alternatively, do you know any other store?

Answer
The bikes in halfords the cheaper models are very heavy and the brakes go out of tune very easily and the gears. They all have shimano gearing which is a good start but they would be one of the lower grades of derailleurs made by shimano. If you could spend a little bit more go for a carrea bike in halfords I have there racing bike and it's fantastic for the price apart from the seat and pedals in which I changed for about 50 euro.

Not all the bikes in halfords are bad some are very good but as with everything you get what you pay for if you buy a cheap model you get cheaper components which will not perform as well as other bikes. look into the hybrid bikes which will give you a faster speed on roads compared to mountain bike tyres and an important thing as well you don't want to get a bike with suspension as you will not get your full power with every spin of your pedals the suspension will bend taking some of the power.

Best of luck in finding your bike.

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spinning? like on a bike.. please help?

Memory P

okk im trying to lose weight but nothing works i heard that you can work off 1000 calories an hour!! but the sad thing is i dont know what spinning is. please please please help me!!

Answer
Spinning is just ridding a stationary bike. You want to pedal (spin) at a high cadence 70-90 rpm's with just enough resistance to get your breathing to the point where you can still talk but not sing.

People start an exercise program and give up in a week and say it doesn't work. You need to keep with it, you will be burning more calories in a month with moderate exercise then you would be today by going all out and almost killing yourself. It takes time to build muscles and stamina to where you are really burning calories.

To burn off 1,000 calories an hour you would almost have to be a pro cyclist. They can burn 7,000-10,000 a day.

http://www.caree.org/calories.htm

What is Spinning??

Karen_K

Im not familiar with Spinning....... Can I do it on the bike at my gym???

Answer
Spinning is a serious of vigerious bike pedaling, a group exersize conducted by a trainer.. it's hard work but fun

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some general poi spinning questions?

Ophelia

I think I want to start learning to spin poi and i have a few questions
1.) what kind of poi are good to start with
2.) where do I buy poi ? at a head shop ? at a sporting goods store ?
3.) is buying poi like buying a bike or a pair of shoes (in that there are different sizes and rules about how they should fit) or is there just one size for everyone.
4.) books,videos, websites, you can suggest
5.) anything else you think I should be aware of
THANK YOU!!!!
Keepa Keepa: not that kind of poi
this kind of poi http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2IjdnMvBW_A
except probably not with fire at least at first. ;- )

Answer
I got mine from House of Poi website.
Unfortunately I'm in the US so there isn't a big market for it.
I also got the Poi basics DVD with Pele's Element.

In grade 6 we had made some with plastic bags. I've also (for my youngest daughter) put bouncy balls into Hubby's socks and knotted the ends to keep the ball in.
And just a few months ago I turned 2 juggling balls (MB stage balls, 3inch) by drilling a hole in them, inserting a carriage bolt and adding a chain and clip. They work really well but OUCH when I hit myself in the back of the head :) (happens on a regular basis and the cause of my delay in becoming really good.) I can't have fire poi until I stop smacking myself in the head with the ones I have :)

The ones I got from House of Poi are fuzzy blue ones. They are SUPER light. But they still hurt when you're hit with them. The heavier ones I find easier to spin. I think I need to find (or make) some that are in between the weights I already have.
There are different sizes, lengths of chain/strap and either grip with your fist handles or finger straps. I prefer fist grip but for some tricks you need the finger straps.

If you have a shop near by that sells them I'd go take a test "spin". Find out what suits you best.
In general you want ones that come to about your knees when held at shoulder height. Or the chain reaches from wrist to shoulder. That's the basic length. Of course you may find longer or shorter works best for you.


Good Luck and Happy spinning.

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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Heart rate monitor compatibility with stationary bike?

hanna a

I'm taking a spinning class at school and the bike does not show the amount of calories burnt unless I have a heart rate monitor recording my heart rate. My question is do I have to buy the heart rate monitor from the same manufacturer of the stationary bike (LaMond RevMaster Pro) or would any generic HR monitor do the trick?

Answer
A generic HR monitor, like I use, will not give you the calorie count. Just the HR which is a good thing to know anyway.

To know calories burned you have two options, to get the right monitor or just make and estimate. In average we burn 35 calories per mile, and 3500 calories (100 miles) is a pound of fat. A pound of fat burned is not a pound of weight lost. In any case, 35 calories per mile is about as much accuracy as you probably need.

Spin bike Training, in replacement on rainy days?

dread head

Today I had to train inside at my gym. We had some cold rain come through. I got on a spin bike for 3.5 hours pretty much non-stop. I tried to use tension to simulate hills, and I did them at different time intervals. I am guesstimating I traveled about 60 miles. My cycling time for 3 hours = 50 miles. Since I did it inside, non-stop, I added 10 miles.

Is this a fair guesstimate? Am I wasting my time doing the spin bike to replace real training? I want to go back tomorrow for one last "long ride". I then want to just do 10 miles on Friday (get my bike fine tuned). Then do my century on Saturday.

I should add i hate that spin bike. It is nothing like being outside! There is nothing like the fit of my bike! All the fun training days in the open have been great! 70 miles on my road bike kills 10 miles on a spin bike, any day!

Answer
When you are training indoors, you go by time and effort, distance is a fiction. There is no way to replicate the constant changes in effort you experience out on the road with each small rise and wind gust. Indoor training is beneficial, to estimate how much effort you have put in, you should buy yourself a heart rate monitor that can count calories, so you can compare your workouts. Unless you have some form of distraction, indoor workouts can be tedious, leading you to giving up after awhile. You don't need to do 3 hour workouts to maintain your fitness, now is the time of year to branch out and try some other activity to supplement your indoor activity. I use hiking and mountain biking in the fall, and cross country skiing in the winter to maintain cycling fitness, and return to my bike in the spring refreshed and ready to get back out on the road.

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Reviews on the Kawasaki Ninja 250?

Diana

Getting my first bike.. Not to sure of what to get... Ninja looks sweet but I want to make sure it's a good bike. What would you guys recommend?

Answer
Ninja 250s are a great little bike and a great bike to learn on. I've been on any kind of motorcycle you can think of and I have a ball every time I ride one.

They are light, easy to handle, will out-accelerate 95% of the cars on the road, will get up to almost 100mph, and get 60 - 70 miles per gallon.

In my opinion, you can't find a better motorcycle to learn on, and many people keep them long after they are done learning. Once you are used to it, don't be afraid to spin the engine up to 13,000 rpm. They produce maximum power at about 11,000 rpm, which sounds like it's screaming, but that's what it's designed to do.

Kawasaki has perfected this bike to the point they almost never fail, as long as you do normal maintenance on it.





http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1145

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/157/735/Motorcycle-Article/2008-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-First-Ride.aspx

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/kawasaki-ninja-250-review

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/2008-kawasaki-ninja-250-review-part-1-4

http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2010-kawasaki-ninja-250r-ar72522.html

Funn MTB parts review!?!?

Max

Are the stems any good? The bars? any thing? It looks so damn cool i just have to have it! It would go on a dirt jumping bike

Answer
I have a Rippa stem, V2 (original) seatpost, Full-on bars, and some Fatboy bars....they're all bomb-proof and mine have been through a lot of serious urban abuse. The stem and seatpost are awesome....especially the seatpost. If you get the seatpost be sure to order it with the correct inserts to match your saddle rails. You may go through saddles, but the seatpost will be with you for the rest of your life....really. The newer V3 seatpost is pretty much the same thing with a different look (and Deity's is very similar). If you could see the clamp mechanism you'd be impressed. It's a loop-top with big v-splines that the inserts mate with. You won't ever break it or strip them out. I like the design of the Rippa with the top load design. Atomlab has something similar but I really like the Funn better.

I've also been running their isis bottom bracket and THAT is what I've been most impressed with....I expected it to crap out or break under the abuse I give that bike but it's still holding strong and spinning smooth after lots of rain, big stair gaps, and many 4'-7' drops to flat concrete on an aluminum hardtail, plus a lot of serious bashing (gone through 2 Race Face bashguards). No other isis bottom bracket has lasted me more than 6 months max. If I had to choose another bottom bracket it would be the Race Face freeride, but the Funn has just stunned me so far for an isis design.

I considered getting some of their cranks, but I don't think they're that special except for having the Funn name on it (a bit excessively heavy, too). You can pick up some Hussefelts or Holzfellers on closeout for much less and have as good or better cranks.

There are lots of great products out there. Funn has been around a long time cranking out strong well-made parts, but they're getting harder to find in the U.S. because they can't seem to keep distributors supplied and people drop the line. With a more favorable exchange rate, you can order their stuff from http://www.chainreactioncycles.com ...the shipping is actually really reasonable, so if you can't find it in the U.S. that's not a bad option if you have to have the Funn name. I've ordered from them several times.

Deity, Atomlab, Fire Eye, and Transition all make some killer stuff, too. Transition's stuff comes in colors and they keep the pricing pretty low. If you're not averse to ordering overseas, you should also check out the resurrected Nuke Proof parts. They were big back in the day and then disappeared...the new stuff is made for rough play for sure but I don't think it's available in the U.S. right now.

I'm no expert on Funn, this is just my experience with them. If mine ever break on me, I might buy Funn again, but that would depend on their presence in the U.S. and/or what the warranty period is. I just run BB7 brakes, but if I were to buy Funn's new hydro brakes or use their hubs, this issue would be especially important to me (parts availability and warranty). Honestly I don't think their parts are ever going to fail on me. I like that. :o)

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Whats spinning? - bike riding?

i am just wondering what 'spinning' is when riding a mountain/racing bike?

Answer
declan

'Spinning' is the ability to keep your pedals moving at a fast rate (70+ rpm) with MODERATE pedal pressure. This technique, on road or mountain bikes, allows modern riders to do both distance with speed, and little fatigue.

The key is to keep the pedal rate, and the pedal pressure the same over the entire length of our ride. You do this by shifting up and down as necessary to keep these two issues, rpm and pedal pressure, in balance.

Here is a primer I did on the subject several months ago. It may further illustrate.

The right hand gears control the rear (wheel) cogs. The larger cogs are easier (lower) and the small ones are the harder (higher) and faster gears. The left hand controls the three gears (chain rings) attached to the pedal. You use the smallest one only for going up steep hills. You use the larger two for the flats and down hills.

On a mountain bike I would almost always be in the biggest chain wheel (controlled by the left hand) and I would use the right hand gears to keep my spin rate and pedal pressure. SEE BELOW

Pedaling is the most important part of riding. You spin the pedal at a high cadence of 70+ rpm with moderate pedal pressure. You use the gears to maintain that same cadence and pedal pressure through out your ride, on all terrain. Do not 'mash' the pedals.... pedaling at too slow of a rate in too high / hard of a gear.

Read up on spinning and shifting, or ask in this forum. It is the key to your being able to ride distance, with speed, without fatigue.

Soccerref

What's the difference between a spin bike and stationary bike?

crecentrol

Answer
Usually the main difference between a spin bike and a stationary bike is the amount of technology involved. Spin bikes normally have fewer electronics, meaning that you are in control of your own speed and resistance the whole time. However, spin bikes often have more parts of the bike that you can adjust to ensure that your body is in a good position.

If you want to simply be able to push a few buttons and have the bike's resistance change automatically (hill or interval program), then a stationary bike might be a better option. Many stationary bikes also have the ability to measure your heart rate, which is a really good bonus as well.

It sounds like you could probably try the spin bike again and maybe try to adjust the handles and the seat position to make it better for your back. But, if that doesn't take the pressure off of your back, then go for the stationary bike. Other factors can come into play that could cause pain in your low back, such as too much or too little resistance, poor posture, or an unstable core.

You really just have to weigh the pros and cons to see what machine would be best for you... I personally like the spin bike better, but it's completely up to you

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Could you guys give me some advice on work out routines using this workout equipment?

Shaun

* Precor treadmills
* Precor elliptical machines
* Precor climbers
* Precor stationary bikes
* Life Fitness stationary bikes
* Precor AMT's
* Five Star Trac E-spinners
* Concept II rowing machines
* Sci-Fit upper body ergometers
* Keiser M3 spin bikes
* Entire Precor C-Line (19 pieces)
* Entrie Precore S-Line (13 pieces)
* Hammer Strength Free Weights (Over 30 pieces)
* Free weights from 1 pound to 100 pounds (2 sets)
* Medicine balls from 4 pounds to 30 pounds
* Exercise balls

Answer
There are several workout routines listed on this website for exercise balls. Some programs are geared toward beginners, others more advanced, and there are even sport specific programs should you be training for an event.

http://www.exercise-ball-exercises.com/index.html

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TRIATHLON- my first time, need Advice!?

Kittymommy

OK.. i'm 26y F, decided to do a triathlon! I am pretty fit, although i do not work out on a daily basis, and i rarely play sports. I have begun to train, but i am quickly losing motivation. How likely is it for me to be able to do this triathlon by Feb 2009. Currently i can only run a mile in 10 min at best! I DONT want to win the race, just finish! =)

What are some tips on how i should work out? What training? How often? Is it okay if i am not totally 100% athletic? I have never competed in anything like this before!!

I really want to do this, but i am afraid of looking like an idiot in last place. lol...

Thanks! =)

Answer
Don't worry about looking like an idiot. Just being in the race and giving it a try is good enough! Even if you don't finish you are in elite company. It is more than 99% of the population has done! Do your best and be proud of your efforts!

Hopefully you will enter a short distance sprint triathlon, about 1/4 mi swim, 10-20 mi bike, 2-3 mi run. There are many ways to work out and prepare. I would suggest alternating the three events, one a day, twice a week. For example, Monday-swim, Tuesday-bike, Wednesday-run, Thursday-swim, Friday-bike, Saturday-run, Sunday-off. But be ready to make adjustments if you don't feel results, or if you get bored. Everybody is different. Only you know what is right for you!

Start off the swimming with a few 50-yard laps at low speed, say 1-2 minutes per 50 yards. Take 1-2 minutes between laps. After a few days you should be able to do 100-yard laps keeping the same pace. You should try to build your basic endurance, rhythm, and technique. Eventually you should be able to do an entire 1/4-mile (440 yards) in about 10 minutes or less. If you really want to work at it, try doing 1/2-mile in 20 minutes or so.

Start off running at a comfortable pace. I think you should try to build basic endurance by slowly increasing your distance, and concentrate on speed later. A 10-minute pace should be comfortable and you should be able to build to 3 miles fairly quickly.

I don't know what kind of bike you have, but whatever you have should be good enough as long as it is safe. You don't need a fancy bike to compete. Be sure to get a good helmet. And you should get a bike computer. These can be found at any bike store, and I think even Walmart or Target have them. Just get a basic model that costs $25 or so. You need to keep track of your distance, and it helps if you can keep track of your speed and cadence (pedal revolutions per minute). You should ride on flat ground and select a gear where you can comfortably spin at 80 rpm or so. For beginners this should translate to about 12 mph. For starters do this for about 15 minutes, concentrate on holding the speed and cadence as steady as possible. Again you want to build basic endurance, rhythm, and technique. You should be able to gradually increase your distance and speed, and eventually you should be able to cover about 15 miles in one hour. If you run into headwinds or uphill grades, be ready to shift into an easier gear. Or if you are feeling lean and mean, stay in gear, grit your teeth, and gut it out. It builds character!

Once you get to the point where you can do all your events separately for twice the distance you plan to compete, try to string the three events together. But be careful, because biking after a swim is very hard, then running after that is even harder. Cut your distances the first few times you string them together, then build up from there. Hopefully by race day you can do twice the distance in all three events when you string them together. This will give you extra confidence for race day.

For nutrition, there are many ways to go. There are successful low carb triathletes and vegetarian triathletes. But I think most triathletes use a low-fat high-carb approach. The Mediterranean, Okinawan, or USDA food pyramid are examples of this approach. Make sure you get enough calories for energy. You should emphasize whole grains, potatoes, pasta, rice, corn, fresh vegetables and fruits, legumes, and nuts. Limit meat to 4 oz per day of chicken breast or fish. Use olive oil or canola oil. Go easy on dairy products. Eliminate fast food, junk food (chips, snacks, ice cream), and processed food (frozen dinners) as much as possible. But don't forget to reward yourself to your favorite sinful food once or twice a month. For me these rewards help maintain motivation.

Below is a link to a great website on athletic nutrition.

Relax and have fun at the race. Talk to the other competitors to get training ideas. Enjoy the satisfaction of doing something few other people have the guts to even try. Good training and good luck!

What do I need to consider when purchasing my first Road Bike?

Mr. Nice G

I have an upcoming 45 mile bike ride for charity in October so I'm looking to buy a road bike soon to start training. Ultimately I would like to use this bike to enter a triathlon down the road. What kinds of things should i consider when buying a road bike and how much could I expect to spend? I really don't have a lot to spend but I don't want to cheap out either. If anyone could give me some advice that would be great, thanks!
I wouldn't want to go over $500.00 ideally. But after doing my initial research I think I would be willing to go up to up to around $700.00 if I really liked a bike.

Answer
My first road bike was a Trek 1200, it was an excellant starter bike. I paid around $700.00. I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and try several bikes, Trek, Specialized and Giant to name a few. The bike must feel good and comfortable. Take it for a spin. In addition make sure that the you are fitted to your new bike. This is very important for comfort and getting the most out of your new bike . The bike will become an extension of you just like your car .If you're thinking of going in triathlons the bikes I named above are very good for starters. Its better to spend a few bucks and get a good bike that will perform well and you are confortable riding than buying a cheap bike that will be a pain in the rear !Good luck!

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What's the difference between a spin bike and stationary bike?

crecentrol

Answer
Usually the main difference between a spin bike and a stationary bike is the amount of technology involved. Spin bikes normally have fewer electronics, meaning that you are in control of your own speed and resistance the whole time. However, spin bikes often have more parts of the bike that you can adjust to ensure that your body is in a good position.

If you want to simply be able to push a few buttons and have the bike's resistance change automatically (hill or interval program), then a stationary bike might be a better option. Many stationary bikes also have the ability to measure your heart rate, which is a really good bonus as well.

It sounds like you could probably try the spin bike again and maybe try to adjust the handles and the seat position to make it better for your back. But, if that doesn't take the pressure off of your back, then go for the stationary bike. Other factors can come into play that could cause pain in your low back, such as too much or too little resistance, poor posture, or an unstable core.

You really just have to weigh the pros and cons to see what machine would be best for you... I personally like the spin bike better, but it's completely up to you

How does a spin bike differ from a 'regular' exercise bike?

Astromazin

Answer
Spinning is sooo much fun and its great for you. If you havent tried it I suggest you do so. The bike is much differ than a regular bike. You control the amount of resistance with a little knob. Your feet get straped in and the handle is designed to be able to hold on many different ways! Great workout!!!!

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GMC Denali Road Bike Review?

Lolman

If you OWN the GMC Denali road bike, can you tell me about it?

I know it's very cheap for a road bike, so the quality isn't going to be amazing, but what can you say overall about the quality and your experiences riding it?


Some things to possibly go over:

Frame
Weight
Wheels / Rims
Functionality
Shifters / Brakes
Saddle
Friction? (between chain and sprockets and how well the wheel spins)
Overall comfort

If there are any major FLAWS in the bike, I would appreciate if you could point those out, too! Or even if you have a suggestion for another road bike I should look into (preferrably below $300 if possibly).
If you know of any good road bikes (possibly older ones that are used, but can still be found in good condition) that I should look into, please list them.

Answer
"If there are any major FLAWS in the bike, I would appreciate if you could point those out, too!"

The entire bike is flawed. What's really funky about that bike is a THREE piece handlebar. Center piece - then the left & right twist grip shifters - then two more pieces that drop down & away from the shifters. What happens if a shifter breaks? They do not sell replacement shifters for that bike.

You'll need an all new one piece handlebar & two new shift/brake levers.

The bike from the start is J-U-N-K!

Beginner BMX bike question?

halohellbo

I was thinking of getting a BMX bike and trying some flatland tricks.... It will be my first time. I was thinking of spending like 150$ on my first bike. And if I can get pretty good I can get a nice bike. But I was wondering if there is a certain type of BMX bike that I should get for a first time user. And also should it have front brakes? The reason im asking that is because if I have to spin the handle bars a couple of times when im doing a trick wont the brake line get cought up? Anything additional I should know before i go for it?

Answer
you can spin the bars 360 and still have brakes called a gyro theres gyro systems that can have front and back brakes but i personally just like the back brakes or brakeless :) i have a haro x3 nyquist line i like the bike look up some reviews you might like it, its not the lightest bike but you get used to it and start to get it higher and so on

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Spinning Alternative?

LP 2007

I had been spinning which made me lose lots of weight and actually become very slim and toned. (I loved it) Even lost 14 lbs, but now I am unable to do spinning since I relocated. What exercise do you recommend doing that will make me lose fat and tone at the same time, just like the spinning?

Answer
Either jump on a bike, or encourage a new fitness center to start spinning classes. You probably understand the routines and know how to do the exercises, like isolating quads, so you can do them on your own.

As for a class? Try water exercises. They're aerobic and zero impact on the knees, just like spin.

where do I find an assembly manuel for a spin bike?

MOXIE

for a Velocity Fitness Motion Series Spin Bike with monitor.

Answer
Perhaps you could do a Yahoo! search?

EDIT: If you bought the Walmart version then I recommend that you go back to your local store and obtain one. These were made for Walmart, and actually should be relatively easy to assemble with basic mechanical ability.

Thats not to say that they'll last very long...

"There is hardly a thing in this world that one man can't make a little cheaper than another, and sell for a little less. It is the person who considers price only and not quality that is this mans lawful prey."

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