Timpala
For some reason I have fallen in love with the old mid 1980's Honda VF1000R. Does anyone know about this bike good or bad? I love everything about the look. The Red White & Blue, the tail lights, the head lights etc... Any other suggestions of a similar bike are welcomed. Here is a link to a photo of what I am talking about: http://www.classicsportbikesforsale.com/400/ Also, I just wanted to add that I have been riding for years. Please don't send me "beginner" bike ideas. Thanks!
Answer
In the mag mentioned below, there was a brief write up on VF1000R's. Basically, the writer contacted a previous owner of a VF1000R he was thinking of buying. The bloke had several VF's he worked on himself & wrote back to him mentioning the faults he had encountered;
'Cam lobes can pit/flatten - there is a mod for this. Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs can clog if bike is stood, a pain to clean. Spark boxes can go, also Voltage Regulators - Electrex make a replacement for the VReg. Sometimes a rod bearing can spin'
Similar bikes? Can't think of any V-4's offhand, guess some straight 4's from the era - ZZR1100 or Honda Blackbird - would have similar power & speed, but not torque.
PS the UK mag Practical Sportsbike had a write up/test of them in the Oct 2012 issue. It mentioned a worldwidw owners forum vr1000r.com
In the mag mentioned below, there was a brief write up on VF1000R's. Basically, the writer contacted a previous owner of a VF1000R he was thinking of buying. The bloke had several VF's he worked on himself & wrote back to him mentioning the faults he had encountered;
'Cam lobes can pit/flatten - there is a mod for this. Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs can clog if bike is stood, a pain to clean. Spark boxes can go, also Voltage Regulators - Electrex make a replacement for the VReg. Sometimes a rod bearing can spin'
Similar bikes? Can't think of any V-4's offhand, guess some straight 4's from the era - ZZR1100 or Honda Blackbird - would have similar power & speed, but not torque.
PS the UK mag Practical Sportsbike had a write up/test of them in the Oct 2012 issue. It mentioned a worldwidw owners forum vr1000r.com
can you help me with my bike problem?
Adam D
im going to be riding my bike a lot more now, and i think my front disc break is slightly buckled. i took it to a bike shop but the guy has done nothing to it!!
when i ride the bike it starts making a loud scraping noise and it is really annoying and embarrising and so i have resorted to putting wd40 onto it to lube it up. it still breaks properly but i know its not safe and after about 5miles it wears off and the scrapes begin again.
what can i do?
a link to the bike i have in case it is any help...
http://www.bik3z.co.uk/CROSS%20Rider%2018%20with%20V%20back.htm
Answer
Hi. Disc rotors will buckle, wear and warp over time and the WD40 won't have helped. I'd suggest the following:
1. Clean the rotor thoroughly using a disc friendly cleaner - you can use Muc-Off or Clean Streak White Lightning for example.
2. Remove the pads and check you still have at least 1mm of pad left. If not, replace pads. If you do have pads left, lightly sand the pads to remove contaminants and put back in.
3. Loosen the caliper bolts, apply the brake, and while still holding the brake, re-tighten the bolts. This will align the pads with the rotor.
4. Now pour some water over the whole lot and test them out. If they still scrape, turn bike upside down and spin the wheel, looking at the path of the rotor relative to the pads. If its buckled badly, you should be able to see by eye, and you might consider buying a new rotor. If its slightly buckled, you may be able to bend it back with a spanner, but if you're unsure about this - take it to a shop (probably a different shop).
Hope that helps...
Hi. Disc rotors will buckle, wear and warp over time and the WD40 won't have helped. I'd suggest the following:
1. Clean the rotor thoroughly using a disc friendly cleaner - you can use Muc-Off or Clean Streak White Lightning for example.
2. Remove the pads and check you still have at least 1mm of pad left. If not, replace pads. If you do have pads left, lightly sand the pads to remove contaminants and put back in.
3. Loosen the caliper bolts, apply the brake, and while still holding the brake, re-tighten the bolts. This will align the pads with the rotor.
4. Now pour some water over the whole lot and test them out. If they still scrape, turn bike upside down and spin the wheel, looking at the path of the rotor relative to the pads. If its buckled badly, you should be able to see by eye, and you might consider buying a new rotor. If its slightly buckled, you may be able to bend it back with a spanner, but if you're unsure about this - take it to a shop (probably a different shop).
Hope that helps...
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