So I plan to buy a fishing rod and reel both separate and want to know whats a good brand for around 150-250$?

Power

I would do fishing off of docks or piers and maybe fish off of my 18ft inflatable boat with 25hp outboard and aluminum floor also my kayak and I might do saltwater or freshwater or both also the odeon will be somewhere in California around outside of either Los Angeles or somewhere in San diago so anyway do you know any good brands around that price range 10 points good informative answer

Answer
Honestly, ONE outfit cannot possibly do "Offshore, Inshore, and Freshwater" fishing.

( Trying to find a "do-everything" fishing outfit is like trying to find ONE tool to do ALL carpentry jobs! A hammer works great for pounding nails- not so great for sinking screws! )

At the very least, you will need 2 outfit's- a designated Freshwater outfit and a designated Saltwater outfit.

Why??

Saltwater and Freshwater fishing (generally) require different line "sizes" (and diameters), different reel sizes, and different rod sizes.

Best (big) brands for Freshwater?- Shimano, Daiwa, Abu Garcia, Pflueger

Best (big) brands for Saltwater?- Shimano, Daiwa, Avet, Abu Garcia, Fin-Nor, Penn

FYI: When buying any outfit the most important part is the REEL. Why? Even a cheap rod, (if properly cared for) can last many seasons- it has no "moving parts". Whereas, a cheap reel is (generally) made with substandard materials. Those cheap materials have a definite "lifespan".

Bottom-line?? Spend 80% of your budgeted allowance on the REEL- not the rod!

Freshwater reels (with reviews)-

#1. Pflueger President (6940 size)- This is the cheapest Freshwater reel available (at this time) with an excellent reputation. The 6940 size could be used for a variety of fish including Bass, Catfish, large Trout, Crappie, Etc (read 177 reviews here)- http://www.basspro.com/Pflueger-President-6900-Series-Spinning-Reels/product/10213341/

#2. Shimano Symetre SY4000FL- Twice as expensive as the Pflueger President, the Shimano Symetre is a well-known workhorse reel that has the added advantage of being able to do light Inshore Saltwater fishing as well as Freshwater fishing. Is it twice as good as the Pflueger??? Probably not in Freshwater- but, again, it will work (and last longer/be more durable) in both Fresh and Saltwater environs. (Light Inshore saltwater fishing for 12-15LB fish) - http://www.basspro.com/Shimano-Symetre-FL-Spinning-Reels/product/1207260456521/

Saltwater Reels (with reviews)-

#1. Fin-Nor OFS (45 size)- If you are leaning toward Saltwater pier and Inshore Saltwater fishing this would be an excellent reel, (period). It is a CNC machined aluminum "tank" built to last a lifetime. You could easily go from Inshore/Pier fishing to light Offshore fishing with this reel- http://www.basspro.com/FinNor-Offshore-Spinning-Reels/product/89192/

#2. Penn Spinfisher SSV (6500 size)- Penn is a well-known saltwater reel/rod manufac. The Spinfisher Series has been around nearly 50 years- http://www.basspro.com/PENN-Spinfisher-SSV-Spinning-Reels/product/1206150826161/

These are good examples of excellent reels. However, there are many reels available in their branded line- so - do some research. You might find one that better suits your needs.

(The reason I didn't include any Conventional or Baitcasting reels??? If you're new to the sport of fishing it's much easier to learn how to utilize and cast a Spinning reel VS any other type of reel. But, if you don't mind a bit of a challenge, by all means, go with either.)


Rods?????? AS mentioned above, you can/could spend ALL of your budget on a nice rod. BUT, if you are a casual fisherman a $100-$200 (plus) rod will be redundant. (Like buying a $3000 Santa Cruz MT bike to beach cruise!)

Realize- Rods generally wear out long before reels- (esp if you intend to fish more than 10-15 times a year). SO, until you get the major " fishing fever" purchasing a cheaper rod would (probably) work best for you......

Freshwater??- A Berkley Lightning Shock Series Rod paired to a Shimano Symetre or Pflueger President would be fine- http://www.basspro.com/Berkley-Lightning-Rod-Shock-Series-Spinning-Rods/product/104159/

Saltwater??- A simple Ugly Stik Tiger Series Rod paired to a Fin-Nor OFS would be fine- http://www.basspro.com/Shakespeare-Ugly-Stik-Tiger-Spinning-Rods/product/22247/

Check here if you want a more expensive rod- http://www.basspro.com/Saltwater-Fishing-Rods/_/S-12100002003

One more tip- When buying a rod get a ONE PIECE model.

Hope this helps? Good luck!

What happens to tire slime after its expiration date?

Colin

Hi,

Some while ago I bought some slime/tire sealant for my mountain bike. The tube it came in says it lasts from two to six months.

I was wondering: could I put some new slime into an inner tube with expired slime? What happens to the slime when it expires? Does it become like a paste or evaporate?

Thanks.

Answer
I have had Slime tubes in my MTB for over 2 years. Same tube, same slime. Every week or so they lose around 10 psi if left unchecked (maybe it's time for some new slime tubes) , but this is no problem if you regularly check and change your tyre pressure for riding different conditions/surfaces. Around 2 or 3 times in this time I have got a flat tyre. All I did was spin the wheel to re distribute the slime and then pump up it back up and it is fine.

Sure it was a bit messy when it was time to get a new rear tyre (it gets slimy between the tyre and tube!) but it was clear that after inspecting the tube, it had in fact sealed quite a few small punctures (got bored and gave up counting after around 10). Once in the new tyre I gave it a nice spin and spread the slime out and it is fine.

So no need to fix a puncture during the whole life of an MTB tyre used all different conditions/surfaces.

All the nay sayers who say Slime does not work, you must have only had experience with cheap products and not proper Slime ( http://www.slime.com/ ) or not used them at all and just going by a few bad reviews. And yes, the valve would clog up if you let the air of of your tube tooo fast!

So yeah, to answer your question, don't worry mine are keeping my tyres full of air and stopping puncture after 2 years, maybe I will get some new tubes and slime when I wear out these tyres...

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Taking Spinning Class. Need advice on stretching, nutrition, and more!?

C F

Starting to take spinning class. Need tips on stretching, nutrition, and more!?
I'm going to be starting a spin class, kinda lightly at this point. An hour every Wednesday and every other Sunday for about a month. Then I'll throw in Mondays.

But I had a half an hour class Tuesday and I'm STILL sore. I realized after the fact I really didn't stretch. But I don't know how or how many times to repeat a stretch. Are there some things you all could suggest?

Also, I have no idea what I should be eating (or when) to keep my body fit. I want to make sure I'm at least getting the proper nutrition before and after the workout.

Also, what are somethings I can do in between classes to keep those muscles ready? The reason for my taking the class so infrequently to start is because of scheduling conflicts. So I can't take more classes than that for now. But I do have access to a gym almost every day. I will be taking some workout aerobic/cardio type classes but I don't know if it works the same muscles.

Also, what are some good bike shorts that will protect me from the saddle. Two days later and my butt still hurts. I'm a college student so I'm kinda on a budget. But I'm kinda ok with spending up to around $50 or so if it's a REALLY good pair of shorts that will last. But cheaper the better as long as they do the trick.

Answer
I've been spinning for over 3 years now, so i know what you talk about!

1. Your tush will be sore for at least a week, and although gel seat pads or cushions may help, it won't be worth spending money on. That goes for cycling shorts, too (the ones that have gel inserts), so just tough it up, after a week your body will get used to it.
2. The thigh/calf/shoulder or buttock pain will still be noticeable, so you must always stretch and warm up AND cool down.
3. Specific stretch exercises for spinning should be done on the bike, as follows,

Hamstrings
1. Place one foot on the bike between
the handlebars and the seat and find a
position where your balance on your
supporting leg is stable.
2. Slightly bend your supporting leg.
3. Square your hips so both hip bones
âfaceâ forward.
4. As you exhale, bend forward from
your hips and bring your straight
torso toward your straight leg.
5. Relax and breathe as you stretch.
Switch legs after 30-60 seco

Quads
1. Hold onto the bike with one hand,
using the bike for balance.
2. Grasp the top of your foot or ankle
with your free hand and bring your
heel as close to the buttocks as possible.
3. As you exhale, pull your abdominals
in and tuck your hips underneath you
4. Hold the stretch and breathe. Switch
legs after 30-60 seconds.

Calves
1. Standing directly behind the bike,place the sole of one foot against the bottom of the frame, heel down.
2. Stand erect and lean slightly into the
bike until you feel a stretch in your
calf muscles.
3. Hold the stretch and breathe. Switch
legs after 30â60 seconds.

Glutes
1. Stand facing the bike about 2-3 feet
away and place a hand on handlebar
for stability.
2. Stand on one leg and rest the other
foot above the knee of your standing leg.
3. Flex the knee of your standing leg
and allow your hips to sink back.
4. Feel the stretch in the glutes area of
the crossed leg.
5. Hold the stretch and breathe for 30-60 seconds.

Do these before and after class. Also, a spinning class takes 45 minutes, when you finish, pedal slowly for 5 minutes and then cool down.

Do not eat anything before spin class. Most people get nauseous even after a banana or apple. Do not eat for at least an hour after class, to help your body utilize your reserve carbs before eating again.
You do not need a complex diet, have 5 small meals a day (divide your normal food for a day among 5 smaller meals) and try to keep a balance between carbs, fats and proteins ( 40-45% carbohydrates or carbs, 25-30% protein and 30-35% fat each day).

Aerobics, swimming, elliptical machine or jogging are compatible with spinning. If you are doing weight training, too, do it on days you are not spinning to prevent muscle exhaustion.

Take it slow, be patient, and you'll get amazed by the change in your health and body. Welcome to the spinning world!

after doing a spin class my clitoris became swollen and sore?

KAREN H ka

After a vigerous spinning class the next day my clitoris was swollen and sore on the left side.

Answer
its the seat. If it tilted up to far it can do that. Try to have the instructor adjust the bike. You might want to buy a seat cushion for it too.

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How can I make my Marin Fairfax 2007 bike better for long distance?

c_smith85

I recently purchased a Marin Fairfax 2007 hybrid bike for commuting around London, and I have so far been very impressed with it for commuting. Although I took into the country and found it to be exteremely slow for long distances. The sales man said this is due to the small wheels designed for acceleration. Is it possible to change the wheels to make it quicker on long distances? Are there any other words of advice to speed the bike up?
Sorry - the bike I have is an Marin Novato 2007 model with the following wheel specs:
Rear Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Front Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Spokes: DT 14 Gauge Black Stainless
Rims: WTB SX24, Double Wall, 32 Hole Disc
Tyres: Continental Sport Contact 26â x 1.6â with Safety System

Answer
There are 3 approaches to having a faster bike:
1. Shave bike weight by using components of more lightweight materials like titanium or carbon fiber. This is an expensive alternative.
You can also lighten your wheels by using road tires. These are lighter. Matching the tires to your rims may need professional (local bike shop) intervention. A road tire that does not match its rim can slip off.
2. Alter the sizes of your chainrings and cogset. You can use a road bike's crankset. These are larger and thus will transmit faster linear speed, but will require more pedalling effort to accelerate. Also, these usually come with only 2 chainrings. You'd have to adjust your front derailleur accordingly. The shifter will then have one dead speed. Or you can replace your front derailleur and shifter set with an appropriate road version instead.
You can change your cogset to one with the smallest cog having 11 teeth. This will also make your rear wheel spin faster.
3. Become a stronger rider. Lose weight; strengthen your lower body.

Definitely you can't change the size of your wheel to a larger one without changing your frame and fork and chain and cables and...

The next larger wheel size is 29", the same size as that of a road bike. Maybe you need a road bike instead. But if you prefer the more upright riding position and the better standover clearance of a MTB (or an ATB as what it's usually called in your country), then it may make sense to purchase a complete 29-er rig.

I looked up your bike. The componentry is already very good if you only use it for commuting. If you are in a situation that limits you to owning only your current Marin, changing to skinny road tires is the best alternative. Or you can look at it this way: not going so fast on a country road affords you more opportunity to take in the sights.

Ride safely. (",)

Which is better Statinoary bike or Spin bike?

Stardock

So my gym is too expensive and I don't like exercising outside so I decided to buy a fitness machine for my house. When I used to go to the gym, I used stationary bikes all the time because it gave me the most effective workout. So I know that my favorite fitness machines are exercise bikes.

I have never used Spin bikes before so I don't know if they are better than Stationary bikes. So for someone who's looking for an effective aerobic and cardiovascular workout and thinking of doing HIIT at home, which type of fitness machine is best?

P.S. I don't have a bicycle and I don't want to become a professional cyclist.

Answer
Hi Stardock, I think stationary bike would be best in your case.Try that

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bmx bike cranks/pedals?

Gta wanna

i have a 2010 we the people justice, i was riding it a couple days ago and my cranks started snapping a little bit so i went home and tighten them then like a day after that when i was riding again a really loud snap happened and now when ever i pedal or backpeddlele it kinda jams up like if it hasomethinging blocking it so can someone tell me how to fix them?? thank you

Answer
From the description is sounds like the chain jumped, but I'm assuming you know more than that.

Loosen the wheel and disconnect the chain. Do the cranks turn freely? If not you probably need new bearings in your bottom bracket.

If so spin the wheel forward, does it spin correctly? If not bearings.

If it does spin the wheel backwards, does it still spin correctly? If not bearings.

If it does sticking something other than your finger between the teeth on the driver, does it stop spinning but the wheel continues to spin? If not it's in the driver/hub.

Does This Fixed Gear Bike Clear Bar Spins?

ThanxForTh

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://imagehost.vendio.com/preview/sp/speedgeeks/vilano1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bicyclebunker.com/listings/new-2010-vilano-single-speed-fixed-gear-fixie-track-bicycle-in-box-1075144.php&usg=__CHF2hIHSAaHwGrphBhgOV5z-iOU=&h=420&w=700&sz=50&hl=en&start=0&tbnid=lbqBAZ4NZw3suM:&tbnh=121&tbnw=201&prev=/images%3Fq%3D2010%2BVilano%2BSingle%2BSpeed%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1T4RNTN_enUS347US347%26biw%3D1255%26bih%3D757%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=125&ei=ZpJsTOjbIYT2tgO0-LCYBw&oei=ZpJsTOjbIYT2tgO0-LCYBw&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0&tx=146&ty=50


Yeah i kno its a big link but click on it to see the pic. will it clear bar spins after i take the brakes off?

Answer
No.

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Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

Where to buy a cheap mountain bike in London?

mael

I wanna buy a cheap (below 100 pounds) men mountain bike in London. I precise that I don't need top quality, simply a basic one. The only stores I could find with real cheap prices are Halfords and Sportsdirect.
While I could find online many bad reviews on Halfords, I have no idea about sportsdirect.
Anybody has experience with one of those? Are the bikes decent? Alternatively, do you know any other store?

Answer
The bikes in halfords the cheaper models are very heavy and the brakes go out of tune very easily and the gears. They all have shimano gearing which is a good start but they would be one of the lower grades of derailleurs made by shimano. If you could spend a little bit more go for a carrea bike in halfords I have there racing bike and it's fantastic for the price apart from the seat and pedals in which I changed for about 50 euro.

Not all the bikes in halfords are bad some are very good but as with everything you get what you pay for if you buy a cheap model you get cheaper components which will not perform as well as other bikes. look into the hybrid bikes which will give you a faster speed on roads compared to mountain bike tyres and an important thing as well you don't want to get a bike with suspension as you will not get your full power with every spin of your pedals the suspension will bend taking some of the power.

Best of luck in finding your bike.

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Spin bike routine questions?

Nuggs

i just got a spin bike for home use and i was wondering how many times a week i should use it. if each time i use it for 45-60 mins?

Answer
As often as you can, as hard as you can, as long as you can.
It depends on what your overall fitness goal is.
If you're just looking to burn calories, then the more you do it, the more calories you burn, the more weight you lose.
If you're looking to replace road riding and build up endurance, then it's probably better to do it as long as you can before you get winded. But personally, I don't think this is really effective, because there is no way I'm going to sit on a spin trainer for 2-3 hours straight.
If you're looking to stress your legs and increase muscle mass, then doing some all out intervals for 40-60 minutes 3-4 times a week should be good. In this case, you should feel some significant soreness the following day afterwards. Otherwise, you're not going to stress your muscles enough to encourage growth.

I just bought a spin bike, now what?

HDevill

Any advice on work out routines, websites, cardio vs. fat burning. I mountain bike ride once or twice a week and want to increase my stamina on the weekly rides as well as lose weight and condition my heart. I'm 48 and could lose about 15 pounds. My gym doesn't have spin classes. Thanks!

Answer
http://www.spinning.com/page.asp?id2=33&id1=25

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Looking to buy a bike ... advice please?

ss.snomer

Hi ... I'm looking to buy a bike for cycling around on weekends, for both fitness & fun. Mostly on roads, and later (much, much later) perhaps on some basic biking trails.

I'm not looking for a professional bike, just something decent ... but sufficiently adequate to cover my biking needs for several years.

Please offer any advice ... in terms of the type of bike I'm looking for, features, things to look out for when bike shopping or trying a bike, things to avoid, potential cost, general snippets of useful information, etc. Note, I'm a beginner and have no knowledge whatsoever of biking//cycling.

Thanks.

Answer
The most important thing is that you go to a real bike shop, not a department store. There you are most likely to find good advice, good bikes, and good support after you buy the bike. A good shop will also let you take it for a spin if you leave behind a credit card. Explain to them your needs and skill level, and they can help outfit you.

The biggest question is how much do you spend. More expensive bikes will be more reliable, lighter, and smoother, and will also give you room to grow into them, but would also be a waste if you end up not liking the sport and having it sitting in the garage collecting dust. Only you can decide what level of bike you should get.

As long as you go with a real brand, you'll be ok. A hybrid style bike will be good for your needs, able to handle roads and smooth, well kept trails, while remaining comfortable to ride. Don't get hung up on brand - there are a ton of good ones and you are safe with most of them. Again, as long as you shop at a good place, you won't end up with a bad bike.

The main thing is that core of the bike are good parts - the frame and brakes especially. Don't worry too much about things like seats, pedals, and other minor things which can easily and cheaply be replaced.

Good luck.

Suturing*Please professionals help answer*?

bobby hoho

what does it mean if the suture needles are "outdated"?

Also can anyone teach me how to do the interupted stitch or the continuous stitch?

Thanks!!

Answer
I'm not a professional but I can give you half an answer (your question piqued my interest):

So, a needle-pulling-thread is outdated, doc goes sutureless
August 30, 2011 â 5:54am ET | By Howard Lovy

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About a decade ago, Geoffrey Gurtner was chief of microsurgery at Bellevue Hospital in New York. A young patient had come in, about 10-12 months old, whose finger had been accidentally cut off by the spinning wheel of an exercise bike. Gurtner reattached the finger, but the child's blood vessels were so tiny, about half a millimeter, that it took 5 hours of struggle to get in three sutures. That's when Gurtner decided that there must be a better way than the needle-and-thread technique used for the past century. Gurtner, now a microsurgeon at Stanford University Medical Center, believes he's found a solution to the problem in a sutureless method that appears to be faster, easier and safer.

In a technique published in Nature Medicine, Gurtner describes how he, along with colleagues Edward Chang and Michael Galvez, used a poloxamer gel and bioadhesive rather than a needle and thread to join together blood vessels in animal studies. "Ultimately, this has the potential to improve patient care by decreasing amputations, strokes and heart attacks while reducing healthcare costs," the authors write. The reason is that not only are needle and thread more difficult to control on small blood vessels, but they also can lead to complications such as intimal hyperplasia, in which cells collect on the inside of the blood vessel causing it to narrow.

Gurtner experimented around with different substances to keep blood vessels open, including ice, but finally settled on Poloxamer 407, which is solid and elastic when heated, but then dissolves into a harmless liquid in the body when cooled. They used the material to distend both openings of a severed blood vessel, allowing researchers to glue them together precisely. In the animal studies, the method worked even on small blood vessels only 0.2 millimeters wide. "That's where it really shines," Gurtner says in a release.

More animal testing needs to be done before the technique can be tried on humans. The materials used are already FDA-approved.

- take a look at the Stanford University Medical Center release
- and the Nature Medicine abstract

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Help, Kink Gap Bike 2010?

Melanie

someone told me to get it for street bmx and for a decent price
does anyone have it? or know about it
I just want to make sure it's a good bike to ride
because like in skateboarding, you NEED a good board and you can't really learn with a shitty one as well as you could with a pro board.
anyways it looks like the best bike for me, for a decent price

oh and this is probably a super dumb question but can you do barspins with front brakes? like I've seen people do it then I've seen people not being able to do it
idk as long as I can do it on that bike! please help me out.

Answer
Yea, I'm getting that bike I know a decent amount. It looks sick. It rides sick, and yea, I skate too and I understand. This bike is really good. And Yes you can do barspins with front brakes though the Kink Gap 2010 doesn't have front brakes. If it does, and you can't do barspins take off the front brakes. To test if you can just spin the bars all the way around.



Good Luck with the bike.

Fit PRK 1 Bike 2010 pros and cons?

Brett

i am thinking about buying the Fit PRK1 2010 and i would like to know of anything i should be aware of. i want to know some pros ond cons

Answer
There are many cons but depending on your skill level, they won't matter.
*Not full chromoly frame
*Not full chromoly forks
*Not full chromoly bars (I think?)
*Single walled rims
*The Railed Seat (I guy I know has it, its pretty hard)

There are also many some pros
*Its pretty light (not as light as some bikes, but its NOT heavy)
*It has a gyro/detangler, so you can spin the bars all the way around


Its really NOT that bad but If your pretty experienced you'll probably brake some of the parks on the bike and need to fix/replace them. I can't help you out so much because I don't know your height, how long you've been biking, your skills, etc. But that should help you a little bit at least.

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How do you maintain a bike?

smiley

I'm very new to cycling and plan on getting a fuji absolute 3.0 for fun and fitness. I will most likely be using the bike 4-5 times a week mainly on roads. How often do I get a tune-up? How do I clean it? (I heard some parts get bad if water gets on it). If anyone recommends any specific items I should get, like a good chain lubricant, that would be great. Thanks!

Answer
If I could give Julian's answer 10 thumbs-down, I would! lol. Please don't follow that advice. At all.

Bike maintenance can be a simple thing, but of course bike mechanics is a complex thing...and they go together a little bit. The basics are to try and keep your bike dry...if it gets wet, just dry it off as soon as you can and you might want to wipe it off with a damp sponge or towel. Don't use a hose or a car wash/pressure nozzle...that can force water into places you don't want it to go, and can totally ruin bearings causing them to rust or fail. If you want to use waxes or polishes, have at it, but that's something I've never felt the need to do and today's bike paints/coatings are really durable.

Your biggest maintenance area will be cleaning and lubing the chain. Use a good quality bike lube. If you're in a wet and rainy area, the "wet" lubes will last longer and protect better, but they're oily and dirty and cleaning your chain will be necessary more often. "Dry" lubes are the favorite choice...resistant to picking up sand, last a long time, and with some you can just reapply lube without needing to clean the chain so frequently. There's no way to tell you how often to lube the chain, but before it gets dry and squeaky...or after it gets wet so it doesn't rust. My favorite by far is the ProLink Pro Gold lube, but there are several good ones available. Ask your bike shop and see what the locals prefer...sometimes your local environment dictates what's best. Don't balk at the higher price of bike lubes compared to other stuff. If you use it properly and don't waste it, it's not that expensive and it does the job the best.

Other than that, most "tune-ups" will be very infrequent. If your gears and brakes and all the other bolts and bits are set up properly, then they'll often go a long time without needing anything at all. The cables will need to be replaced occasionally (every year or two, give or take, depending on how much you use them). When you first get your bike, it's more than likely that the cable adjustments will need some attention once or twice during the first 100 miles or so...that's normal, but after that they should be mostly attention-free. At some point you'll start wearing out the chain and gear teeth, but that will take a long time.

Other parts of maintenance get more complex and you can either learn to do them and buy some tools, or have a shop take care of it for you....things like changing the grease in the wheel bearings and/or headseat bearings, adjusting those same bearings, replacing brake pads and/or adjusting them as they wear. Your wheels should spin nice and smooth, without wobbling. Hopefully your new bike comes that way. lol. If that changes over time, have the bike shop "true" them for a few bucks.

Best new bike accessories include: helmet, bike pump, spare inner tube, patch kit, and chain lube.

magnetic exercise bike help?

Louise c

i have a pro fitness magnectic exercise bike,well the tension control for the resistance works but it only goes from 1-8 my problem is that i do not feel that this is enough resistance for me to start up a sweat,is there anyway that i can adjust anything to make the resistance alittle bit more harder?
thankyou for ur answers

Answer
I'm not sure what all the parts are called but I'll try my best here. You know the thing that the back wheel goes on, and as you pedal it spins around, well you could try tightening that so that it's closer to the wheel to make more resistance. You'll probably need to get new wheels often though as that could wear them down a bit.
If that can't/doesn't work then maybe just pedal faster to work up a sweat. I think that's what the pros do sometimes too. Less resistance, faster leg movements.
Hopefully you figure it out. Good luck!.

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i am thinking about takin a class called spin bike one, does anybody know what this is?

Tiffany E

i know it is a bike with actual wheels on it and i ride a stationary bike at home all the time, i am in shape would this class benefit me work out wise, or is it boring or what? any information is helpful...

Answer
Tif

Spin bikes are more like a bike that a stationery bike. If you do not know how to spin, with moderate pressure you will know by the end of day 1. You will definitely know that you have had a workout! For class, I suggest that you get a good pair of padded cycling shorts, a T or jersey that wicks moisture, and a good pair of stable tennis shoes if you do not have the correct cleats.... most gyms require a towel for perspiration.

A pair of sweats or a hoodie is always a good idea of the weather is chilly around you.

The exercise is terrific, and the music is really great. You will enjoy it... but, it IS a workout! Don;t over do it. You want to come back again!

what is the best spin bike on the market?(for home use, and around $500)?

mikeandmel

I'm looking into a multisports-360.

Answer
One of the criteria. I look for is Max User Weight
The multisports-360 is 275 lbs. It usually an indictor of durablity and stability. If you plan to ride a lot, you're better off going with a more durable, more stable exercise bike.

Dont have one myself. I just walk now days.


Multisports ENC-360 Endurocycle

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Whats spinning? - bike riding?

i am just wondering what 'spinning' is when riding a mountain/racing bike?

Answer
declan

'Spinning' is the ability to keep your pedals moving at a fast rate (70+ rpm) with MODERATE pedal pressure. This technique, on road or mountain bikes, allows modern riders to do both distance with speed, and little fatigue.

The key is to keep the pedal rate, and the pedal pressure the same over the entire length of our ride. You do this by shifting up and down as necessary to keep these two issues, rpm and pedal pressure, in balance.

Here is a primer I did on the subject several months ago. It may further illustrate.

The right hand gears control the rear (wheel) cogs. The larger cogs are easier (lower) and the small ones are the harder (higher) and faster gears. The left hand controls the three gears (chain rings) attached to the pedal. You use the smallest one only for going up steep hills. You use the larger two for the flats and down hills.

On a mountain bike I would almost always be in the biggest chain wheel (controlled by the left hand) and I would use the right hand gears to keep my spin rate and pedal pressure. SEE BELOW

Pedaling is the most important part of riding. You spin the pedal at a high cadence of 70+ rpm with moderate pedal pressure. You use the gears to maintain that same cadence and pedal pressure through out your ride, on all terrain. Do not 'mash' the pedals.... pedaling at too slow of a rate in too high / hard of a gear.

Read up on spinning and shifting, or ask in this forum. It is the key to your being able to ride distance, with speed, without fatigue.

Soccerref

What's the difference between a spin bike and stationary bike?

crecentrol

Answer
Usually the main difference between a spin bike and a stationary bike is the amount of technology involved. Spin bikes normally have fewer electronics, meaning that you are in control of your own speed and resistance the whole time. However, spin bikes often have more parts of the bike that you can adjust to ensure that your body is in a good position.

If you want to simply be able to push a few buttons and have the bike's resistance change automatically (hill or interval program), then a stationary bike might be a better option. Many stationary bikes also have the ability to measure your heart rate, which is a really good bonus as well.

It sounds like you could probably try the spin bike again and maybe try to adjust the handles and the seat position to make it better for your back. But, if that doesn't take the pressure off of your back, then go for the stationary bike. Other factors can come into play that could cause pain in your low back, such as too much or too little resistance, poor posture, or an unstable core.

You really just have to weigh the pros and cons to see what machine would be best for you... I personally like the spin bike better, but it's completely up to you

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