best position for spinning bike image
c_smith85
I recently purchased a Marin Fairfax 2007 hybrid bike for commuting around London, and I have so far been very impressed with it for commuting. Although I took into the country and found it to be exteremely slow for long distances. The sales man said this is due to the small wheels designed for acceleration. Is it possible to change the wheels to make it quicker on long distances? Are there any other words of advice to speed the bike up?
Sorry - the bike I have is an Marin Novato 2007 model with the following wheel specs:
Rear Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Front Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Spokes: DT 14 Gauge Black Stainless
Rims: WTB SX24, Double Wall, 32 Hole Disc
Tyres: Continental Sport Contact 26â x 1.6â with Safety System
Answer
There are 3 approaches to having a faster bike:
1. Shave bike weight by using components of more lightweight materials like titanium or carbon fiber. This is an expensive alternative.
You can also lighten your wheels by using road tires. These are lighter. Matching the tires to your rims may need professional (local bike shop) intervention. A road tire that does not match its rim can slip off.
2. Alter the sizes of your chainrings and cogset. You can use a road bike's crankset. These are larger and thus will transmit faster linear speed, but will require more pedalling effort to accelerate. Also, these usually come with only 2 chainrings. You'd have to adjust your front derailleur accordingly. The shifter will then have one dead speed. Or you can replace your front derailleur and shifter set with an appropriate road version instead.
You can change your cogset to one with the smallest cog having 11 teeth. This will also make your rear wheel spin faster.
3. Become a stronger rider. Lose weight; strengthen your lower body.
Definitely you can't change the size of your wheel to a larger one without changing your frame and fork and chain and cables and...
The next larger wheel size is 29", the same size as that of a road bike. Maybe you need a road bike instead. But if you prefer the more upright riding position and the better standover clearance of a MTB (or an ATB as what it's usually called in your country), then it may make sense to purchase a complete 29-er rig.
I looked up your bike. The componentry is already very good if you only use it for commuting. If you are in a situation that limits you to owning only your current Marin, changing to skinny road tires is the best alternative. Or you can look at it this way: not going so fast on a country road affords you more opportunity to take in the sights.
Ride safely. (",)
There are 3 approaches to having a faster bike:
1. Shave bike weight by using components of more lightweight materials like titanium or carbon fiber. This is an expensive alternative.
You can also lighten your wheels by using road tires. These are lighter. Matching the tires to your rims may need professional (local bike shop) intervention. A road tire that does not match its rim can slip off.
2. Alter the sizes of your chainrings and cogset. You can use a road bike's crankset. These are larger and thus will transmit faster linear speed, but will require more pedalling effort to accelerate. Also, these usually come with only 2 chainrings. You'd have to adjust your front derailleur accordingly. The shifter will then have one dead speed. Or you can replace your front derailleur and shifter set with an appropriate road version instead.
You can change your cogset to one with the smallest cog having 11 teeth. This will also make your rear wheel spin faster.
3. Become a stronger rider. Lose weight; strengthen your lower body.
Definitely you can't change the size of your wheel to a larger one without changing your frame and fork and chain and cables and...
The next larger wheel size is 29", the same size as that of a road bike. Maybe you need a road bike instead. But if you prefer the more upright riding position and the better standover clearance of a MTB (or an ATB as what it's usually called in your country), then it may make sense to purchase a complete 29-er rig.
I looked up your bike. The componentry is already very good if you only use it for commuting. If you are in a situation that limits you to owning only your current Marin, changing to skinny road tires is the best alternative. Or you can look at it this way: not going so fast on a country road affords you more opportunity to take in the sights.
Ride safely. (",)
What is the difference in muscle movement between biking and walking?
Chris Do
When I bike, I noticed that the motion that I'm doing is the same motion as walking, but for some reason biking is harder on my legs. Why is that?
Answer
Cycling (not biking) and walking use almost completely different muscle groups & different "load bearing joints" on the body. I should know - I walk with the aid of a cane - but can ride a bike nearly anywhere I need or want to go.
If you're having a hard time cycling - it could be at least two reasons or a combo of the two.
1) Improper saddle (seat) height. With the ball of your foot centered on the pedal & in the 6 o'clock pedal position, there should be only a SLIGHT bend in the knee. Have your saddle set right for optimal leg extension & power. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#height
2) You're "pushing" instead of "spinning" the pedals in too high of a gear. "Cadence" is THE key word. You should always be in a gear easy to use with moderate pedal pressure & spin the pedals at a rate or "cadence" of at least 70-90 rpm. Higher cadence but in lower (easier) gears climbing hills - around 95 rpm and above if possible. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html Good cyclist are always around 90 to 105 rpm.
3) If you have a one speed bicycle - there's 99.9% of your problem right there.
Cycling (not biking) and walking use almost completely different muscle groups & different "load bearing joints" on the body. I should know - I walk with the aid of a cane - but can ride a bike nearly anywhere I need or want to go.
If you're having a hard time cycling - it could be at least two reasons or a combo of the two.
1) Improper saddle (seat) height. With the ball of your foot centered on the pedal & in the 6 o'clock pedal position, there should be only a SLIGHT bend in the knee. Have your saddle set right for optimal leg extension & power. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#height
2) You're "pushing" instead of "spinning" the pedals in too high of a gear. "Cadence" is THE key word. You should always be in a gear easy to use with moderate pedal pressure & spin the pedals at a rate or "cadence" of at least 70-90 rpm. Higher cadence but in lower (easier) gears climbing hills - around 95 rpm and above if possible. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html Good cyclist are always around 90 to 105 rpm.
3) If you have a one speed bicycle - there's 99.9% of your problem right there.
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