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Q. I am going into grade 10, which I have been told is the hardest grade in highschool, so a job would be too much, since I also take guitar lessons. I am one of those people who likes to go places, which requires money. Please do not suggest online money making opportunities because I dont want to waste my time on those. All suggestions are appreciated. I am not looking to get rich, just something on the side so I am not completely broke.
Answer
There are many ways of earning extra money. In some cases, people lose their jobs and it becomes survival money. All of the ideas that follow offer potentially good opportunities to earn some extra cash.
Volunteering
Work at a place that might have job opportunities for you e.g. a seniors center, hospital, golf course, etc. Meet a lot of people and network. They know people who know people and so on. The volunteering can also be personally enriching. Make suggestions for jobs you see need doing e.g. teaching the elderly how to use a computer.
Garage sales
Recycling and reusing are not dirty words! There is a ton of stuff out on garbage night that could be picked up that is still useful. If cleaned up or slightly repaired it is potentially worth lots of money e.g. picture frames, small furniture, sports equipment, cutlery and dinnerware, glass & pottery, jewelry, books, computer parts, etc. Once you get good at it and know prices, start going to garage sales and buy stuff that can be resold at a higher price at your own regular garage sales or at used goods shops.
Resell to Dealers
Flea market sellers, antique dealers, and consignment stores are only a few of the people who survive on the sale of used goods.
- TV's that people throw out can be worth about $10-$20 each to repair people who are always on the lookout.
- bikes can be sold to bike repair people and/or used sports equipment dealers. The going rate is anywhere from $10 and up. If they can be fixed at home, they can sell privately. Older "antique" bikes are often highly desirable. Ads in the paper and Buy & Sell type magazines should clear them out quickly for you.
- dehumidifiers and humidifiers can be sold to businesses that repair and sell them. If somebody is handy, it is usually easy to repair many dehumidifiers as the only thing wrong with many of them is a seized motor. A little oil and a few spins and it often works again, no problem. In the summer they sell for about $50-$60 if in good working condition.
Think of all the university student rooms and apartments that need a humidifier in the winter.
Sports Equipment
There is a lot of money in sports equipment. Ice skates, roller blades, snowboards, skateboards, etc. Get familiar with what used goods stores want and buy up newer models at yard/garage sales, estate sales, church rummage sales, etc. Sell them to "Play It Again Sports" stores. It is possible to find them all year for about $2-$10 and you can get $15-$25 or more for them at the stores. It is very easy to build up credits and then buy your own new sports equipment at minimum cost. In many cases, it is also possible to get cash for the equipment. Make sure there are no breaks or missing parts. It has to be flawless for safety reasons.
Door-to-door Selling
Find a product that could easily be sold door to door e.g. economy size boxes of saran wrap, garbage bags, deodorizers, etc. Something small and useful that everybody uses all the time. A novelty toy sold to kids in tourist districts is good too. Be alert and cautious when doing this!
Used Paperbacks and Novels
Check with used book dealers first to see how much they pay for them - usually from 25 cents and up. Also find out which books they find most desirable. Go to garage sales and buy them for about 10-15 cents each or cheaper. Some dealers also sell old magazines. Again, first find out which ones are most desirable. Check out garage sales and especially rummage sales at churches or schools for books. Although small, profit can be at least 50% or better.
Yard Work
If you have fairly good tools, cut lawns, rake areas, etc. Gotta do a good job though!!
Useful Services
Look for needs in parking lots, parks, busy streets, in grocery stores, etc. Walking dogs, watering plants regularly in somebody's yard, doing the edge trimming work around lawns ((I'm sure there are people who dislike that job as much as I do and would pay a kid to do it) One young girl was paid $15/hr to watch a company machine seal envelopes. They couldn't afford to not have anybody there if it jammed.
Garage Door Art
Imagine all the plain, unattractive "canvasses" attached to almost every house just waiting to be covered. Offer to put on large house numbers, pleasant abstract patterns or landscapes. Match or extend the painting to a nearby garden or walkway. With a few cans of paint, brushes and imagination, you can be making $100 or more per garage door.
Porch Rail Painting
Ever notice all the rusty porch railings in your neighborhood? With minimum investment of a few basic colors of rust-proof paint, a wire brush, metal sandpaper and some good small hairy roller brushes, you could make a lot of money sprucing them up.
There are many ways of earning extra money. In some cases, people lose their jobs and it becomes survival money. All of the ideas that follow offer potentially good opportunities to earn some extra cash.
Volunteering
Work at a place that might have job opportunities for you e.g. a seniors center, hospital, golf course, etc. Meet a lot of people and network. They know people who know people and so on. The volunteering can also be personally enriching. Make suggestions for jobs you see need doing e.g. teaching the elderly how to use a computer.
Garage sales
Recycling and reusing are not dirty words! There is a ton of stuff out on garbage night that could be picked up that is still useful. If cleaned up or slightly repaired it is potentially worth lots of money e.g. picture frames, small furniture, sports equipment, cutlery and dinnerware, glass & pottery, jewelry, books, computer parts, etc. Once you get good at it and know prices, start going to garage sales and buy stuff that can be resold at a higher price at your own regular garage sales or at used goods shops.
Resell to Dealers
Flea market sellers, antique dealers, and consignment stores are only a few of the people who survive on the sale of used goods.
- TV's that people throw out can be worth about $10-$20 each to repair people who are always on the lookout.
- bikes can be sold to bike repair people and/or used sports equipment dealers. The going rate is anywhere from $10 and up. If they can be fixed at home, they can sell privately. Older "antique" bikes are often highly desirable. Ads in the paper and Buy & Sell type magazines should clear them out quickly for you.
- dehumidifiers and humidifiers can be sold to businesses that repair and sell them. If somebody is handy, it is usually easy to repair many dehumidifiers as the only thing wrong with many of them is a seized motor. A little oil and a few spins and it often works again, no problem. In the summer they sell for about $50-$60 if in good working condition.
Think of all the university student rooms and apartments that need a humidifier in the winter.
Sports Equipment
There is a lot of money in sports equipment. Ice skates, roller blades, snowboards, skateboards, etc. Get familiar with what used goods stores want and buy up newer models at yard/garage sales, estate sales, church rummage sales, etc. Sell them to "Play It Again Sports" stores. It is possible to find them all year for about $2-$10 and you can get $15-$25 or more for them at the stores. It is very easy to build up credits and then buy your own new sports equipment at minimum cost. In many cases, it is also possible to get cash for the equipment. Make sure there are no breaks or missing parts. It has to be flawless for safety reasons.
Door-to-door Selling
Find a product that could easily be sold door to door e.g. economy size boxes of saran wrap, garbage bags, deodorizers, etc. Something small and useful that everybody uses all the time. A novelty toy sold to kids in tourist districts is good too. Be alert and cautious when doing this!
Used Paperbacks and Novels
Check with used book dealers first to see how much they pay for them - usually from 25 cents and up. Also find out which books they find most desirable. Go to garage sales and buy them for about 10-15 cents each or cheaper. Some dealers also sell old magazines. Again, first find out which ones are most desirable. Check out garage sales and especially rummage sales at churches or schools for books. Although small, profit can be at least 50% or better.
Yard Work
If you have fairly good tools, cut lawns, rake areas, etc. Gotta do a good job though!!
Useful Services
Look for needs in parking lots, parks, busy streets, in grocery stores, etc. Walking dogs, watering plants regularly in somebody's yard, doing the edge trimming work around lawns ((I'm sure there are people who dislike that job as much as I do and would pay a kid to do it) One young girl was paid $15/hr to watch a company machine seal envelopes. They couldn't afford to not have anybody there if it jammed.
Garage Door Art
Imagine all the plain, unattractive "canvasses" attached to almost every house just waiting to be covered. Offer to put on large house numbers, pleasant abstract patterns or landscapes. Match or extend the painting to a nearby garden or walkway. With a few cans of paint, brushes and imagination, you can be making $100 or more per garage door.
Porch Rail Painting
Ever notice all the rusty porch railings in your neighborhood? With minimum investment of a few basic colors of rust-proof paint, a wire brush, metal sandpaper and some good small hairy roller brushes, you could make a lot of money sprucing them up.
What is a good road bicycle for me?
spackler
I'm a 43 yr. old male, in good shape and I'm in the market for a good performing bike in the $600 to $900 range.
Answer
A well considered answer into a price range that only buys a "weekend warrier" type bike?
Okay, then we'll try to give you some variety and a few good hints to see that you get the most pleasure out of it.
Starting off with the very fastest bike in that price range, the Specialized Allez Triple simply blows the rest away (followed shortly by Canondale), while saving you enough to get a decent wheelset. Unfortunately, the fragile frame, responsible for its speed, requires accomodations. Should you get it an enhanced wheelset, each wheel should contain a minimum of 20 evenly spaced spokes and more is fine. That's a bit more expensive than the 16 spoke decoration wheels. You'll also need a shorter stem than the one included, because headtube crackout is a sure thing with a "gorilla" stem. Profile Designs H20 90mm would bring it within the range of normal and safety, but this isn't the bike for you if your arms are long or if you are heavier than 150 pounds.
Schwinn road bikes, while not glamorous, are extraordinarily effective at their no-compromise blend of speed and comfort. You may find one that is, in fact below your price range to have equally satisfying performance to other manufacturers higher priced bikes.
Technology trickle-down provides a featherweight, yet extremely durable AND shock absorbing 3d aluminum frame to Schwinn road bikes from $375 on up.
At the price range you're looking at, there's about two effective differences between these and a $2000 bike. Those are crankset with alloy chainrings and fast wheels (specifically, 20/20 or 24/20 with effective, evenly spaced spokes). These are easy to change. Due to technology trickledown which results in fantastic frames and rear drive systems for all modern bikes and the fact that the usual two lacking points (above) are ever so much less expensive aftermarket, price no longer has merit.
Don't be shy about buying a bike that is equipped with a "road triple" and advanced gearing, such as a 12-27 cassette or even a mountain rear (at least LX for full compatibility with Shimano road levers 8sp, 9sp and XT's road-worthy 11-32 featherweight mountain climber). In fact there's an odd looking yet extraordinary application of a "compact double" with a mountain rear drive such as the one illustrated in order to eliminate the uphill chainring dance.
Not even the finest athletes can race the hills of England without such equipment. The difference has little to no effect on price, so your bike might as well be equipped to handle a wider variety of courses, thus resulting in finer enjoyment with the additional ability to "go forwards" regardless of terrain or possible exhaustion (it happens).
Spinning an easy floating sensation up hills is also a fine feature--that doesn't cost anything extra.
The least weird looking application of advanced gearing goes on a bike with a road triple, 9 speeds on rear, and Ultegra's famous 12-27 cassette. This is about $70 aftermarket and is plug-n-play simple. Sometimes advanced gearing is available at no cost, although usually involving one of Sram's featherweight 8 speed cassettes (when there's no extra cost).
Modern "size" caveats include not listing the effects of tire clearance, having every other size medium bike a 54 or 56 and totally at random, having every other size large bike a 56, 57 or 58, and totally at random, regardless of brand or model and varying within brands--by each and every model.
Another caveat is that the old school idea of using stand-over height to judge the bike is now totally wrong. That will result in an exhausting large heavy thing that is slow to sprint, slow to climb and won't keep up. Professional athletes keep one of these around because the intense added challenge results in rapid gains of strength. My trainer is this way (through foul luck) and it certainly does work for strength building--gains on every single ride, despite its unpleasant nature (putting the lie to a premium brand). This is now the easiest way to buy a trainer for harsh exercise and the worst way to get a "good" bike for enjoyment.
Because of the rapidly increasing length of top tubes throughout the varying bike sizes, buying a larger bike for the purposes of an easier reach will backfire badly. The handlebars of the larger bike are actually now a much farther reach.
Your test drives will quickly determine the bike for you, and there's no other way to do it right.
The good bike will make you smile when you ride it. It will seem faster than the other selections because it will have optimal ergonomics for your body. It will allow you to straighten your back or not at your choice/whim.
The good bike is the one that you have test ridden five times so far, compared others to it, and now absolutely refuse to leave it at the store.
It really is that easy, or that difficult, depending on your approach.
A well considered answer into a price range that only buys a "weekend warrier" type bike?
Okay, then we'll try to give you some variety and a few good hints to see that you get the most pleasure out of it.
Starting off with the very fastest bike in that price range, the Specialized Allez Triple simply blows the rest away (followed shortly by Canondale), while saving you enough to get a decent wheelset. Unfortunately, the fragile frame, responsible for its speed, requires accomodations. Should you get it an enhanced wheelset, each wheel should contain a minimum of 20 evenly spaced spokes and more is fine. That's a bit more expensive than the 16 spoke decoration wheels. You'll also need a shorter stem than the one included, because headtube crackout is a sure thing with a "gorilla" stem. Profile Designs H20 90mm would bring it within the range of normal and safety, but this isn't the bike for you if your arms are long or if you are heavier than 150 pounds.
Schwinn road bikes, while not glamorous, are extraordinarily effective at their no-compromise blend of speed and comfort. You may find one that is, in fact below your price range to have equally satisfying performance to other manufacturers higher priced bikes.
Technology trickle-down provides a featherweight, yet extremely durable AND shock absorbing 3d aluminum frame to Schwinn road bikes from $375 on up.
At the price range you're looking at, there's about two effective differences between these and a $2000 bike. Those are crankset with alloy chainrings and fast wheels (specifically, 20/20 or 24/20 with effective, evenly spaced spokes). These are easy to change. Due to technology trickledown which results in fantastic frames and rear drive systems for all modern bikes and the fact that the usual two lacking points (above) are ever so much less expensive aftermarket, price no longer has merit.
Don't be shy about buying a bike that is equipped with a "road triple" and advanced gearing, such as a 12-27 cassette or even a mountain rear (at least LX for full compatibility with Shimano road levers 8sp, 9sp and XT's road-worthy 11-32 featherweight mountain climber). In fact there's an odd looking yet extraordinary application of a "compact double" with a mountain rear drive such as the one illustrated in order to eliminate the uphill chainring dance.
Not even the finest athletes can race the hills of England without such equipment. The difference has little to no effect on price, so your bike might as well be equipped to handle a wider variety of courses, thus resulting in finer enjoyment with the additional ability to "go forwards" regardless of terrain or possible exhaustion (it happens).
Spinning an easy floating sensation up hills is also a fine feature--that doesn't cost anything extra.
The least weird looking application of advanced gearing goes on a bike with a road triple, 9 speeds on rear, and Ultegra's famous 12-27 cassette. This is about $70 aftermarket and is plug-n-play simple. Sometimes advanced gearing is available at no cost, although usually involving one of Sram's featherweight 8 speed cassettes (when there's no extra cost).
Modern "size" caveats include not listing the effects of tire clearance, having every other size medium bike a 54 or 56 and totally at random, having every other size large bike a 56, 57 or 58, and totally at random, regardless of brand or model and varying within brands--by each and every model.
Another caveat is that the old school idea of using stand-over height to judge the bike is now totally wrong. That will result in an exhausting large heavy thing that is slow to sprint, slow to climb and won't keep up. Professional athletes keep one of these around because the intense added challenge results in rapid gains of strength. My trainer is this way (through foul luck) and it certainly does work for strength building--gains on every single ride, despite its unpleasant nature (putting the lie to a premium brand). This is now the easiest way to buy a trainer for harsh exercise and the worst way to get a "good" bike for enjoyment.
Because of the rapidly increasing length of top tubes throughout the varying bike sizes, buying a larger bike for the purposes of an easier reach will backfire badly. The handlebars of the larger bike are actually now a much farther reach.
Your test drives will quickly determine the bike for you, and there's no other way to do it right.
The good bike will make you smile when you ride it. It will seem faster than the other selections because it will have optimal ergonomics for your body. It will allow you to straighten your back or not at your choice/whim.
The good bike is the one that you have test ridden five times so far, compared others to it, and now absolutely refuse to leave it at the store.
It really is that easy, or that difficult, depending on your approach.
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