theVisiona
What are the advantages and disadvantages of different chainstay lengths on a mountain bike?
I read that some advantages of short chain stays (like 15 - 16 inches) include faster acceleration and greater agility. Are there any other advantages? What are some disadvantages?
Thanks!
Answer
Short chainstays are vital for ease in rear wheel balance if you do much in the way of stunts or trials type tricks. If you want to do this stuff, look for a street/urban/dirt jump frame that has the shortest chainstays....or if you really get into it, buy a dedicated trials frame. It's harder to pull or hold manuals and do rear hops on a 26" wheel to begin with (compared to 20" and 24" bmx bikes), but if you combine that with the normal 17-1/2" chainstay, it only gets worse.
That's about their only real advantage. I don't think they're appreciably stiffer (faster acceleration) than other frames, so I can't say I'd count it as a realistic advantage at all. I've never been able to notice a difference. A bike's acceleration is much more affected by the overall weight, tire choice and inflation, fork choice, etc.
The disadvantages to short chainstays are like what was said above. Usually less mud clearance, but with newer chainstay designs that's changing for the better. They definitely hurt when climbing....it'll be easier to spin out on steeps, especially if they're loose or technical. You can scooch up and put your umm.....taint.....right on the very edge of the nose of the saddle and it'll help compensate, but really the standard (longer) chainstays are better for climbing. It's just a matter of geometry and weight distribution.
Most bikes with short stays also are rigged with a short stem, and that only compounds the climbing issues, so you have to work much harder, fail more often, and accept the limitations of this kind of frame. They generally aren't as good in downhill cornering, but some now are made with longer front sections to where you have a bike with short stays but nearly the same overall wheelbase. They're marketed in the dirt jump and hardtail freeride categories, but they're only a compromise for most riders.
If you're shopping for a new frame, see if you can test out an assembled bike before you buy. Sometimes there are just worlds of difference in how a bike handles your input. Unless you want to get jiggy with the manuals, I'd focus more on the other aspects of the frame, such as head angles and bottom bracket drop and overall bb height. Those things make a much bigger difference in how your bike feels compared to the role that the rear end plays.
So after all that braincandy, just keep in mind that ALL bikes are fun, and you can learn to do almost anything on almost any type of frame/bike. The specializations are refinements to help certain riders do certain things, but try not to get too caught up in it unless you really need to.
Short chainstays are vital for ease in rear wheel balance if you do much in the way of stunts or trials type tricks. If you want to do this stuff, look for a street/urban/dirt jump frame that has the shortest chainstays....or if you really get into it, buy a dedicated trials frame. It's harder to pull or hold manuals and do rear hops on a 26" wheel to begin with (compared to 20" and 24" bmx bikes), but if you combine that with the normal 17-1/2" chainstay, it only gets worse.
That's about their only real advantage. I don't think they're appreciably stiffer (faster acceleration) than other frames, so I can't say I'd count it as a realistic advantage at all. I've never been able to notice a difference. A bike's acceleration is much more affected by the overall weight, tire choice and inflation, fork choice, etc.
The disadvantages to short chainstays are like what was said above. Usually less mud clearance, but with newer chainstay designs that's changing for the better. They definitely hurt when climbing....it'll be easier to spin out on steeps, especially if they're loose or technical. You can scooch up and put your umm.....taint.....right on the very edge of the nose of the saddle and it'll help compensate, but really the standard (longer) chainstays are better for climbing. It's just a matter of geometry and weight distribution.
Most bikes with short stays also are rigged with a short stem, and that only compounds the climbing issues, so you have to work much harder, fail more often, and accept the limitations of this kind of frame. They generally aren't as good in downhill cornering, but some now are made with longer front sections to where you have a bike with short stays but nearly the same overall wheelbase. They're marketed in the dirt jump and hardtail freeride categories, but they're only a compromise for most riders.
If you're shopping for a new frame, see if you can test out an assembled bike before you buy. Sometimes there are just worlds of difference in how a bike handles your input. Unless you want to get jiggy with the manuals, I'd focus more on the other aspects of the frame, such as head angles and bottom bracket drop and overall bb height. Those things make a much bigger difference in how your bike feels compared to the role that the rear end plays.
So after all that braincandy, just keep in mind that ALL bikes are fun, and you can learn to do almost anything on almost any type of frame/bike. The specializations are refinements to help certain riders do certain things, but try not to get too caught up in it unless you really need to.
what is a specialized sirrus bike like?
Matt H
Answer
Two distinct "personalities" for that one.
1) The luxurious slow ride--if you get the bike 1 size too large from the mistake of using traditional standover height to measure a modern bike.
2) The Turbo-Hybrid as they're now called. Sirrus was the first and does its job well. This fit will show quite a bit of seatpost and the bike may seem a bit small. The handlebars will be an easy reach and the result is both fast and comfortable.
Many of the Turbo-Hybrid and fitness bikes are now available. Notable varieties of this are Schwinn Super Sport cyclocross and Diamondback Winwood / Edgewood mountain 29'er. These are a bit different, yet with a similar flair and speedy nature (if the bike is small). The rest of the Turbo-Hybrid on the market are, as usual, blatent copies of the Specialized Sirrus.
In Europe, this bike is simply referred to as "bike". This is the normal bike in Europe. Other bikes are called "Mountain Bike," "Racer," and "Cross."
Before Specialized dared to do it, we didn't have any speedy examples of the Eurobike or Flat-Bar Tourbike.
The lower-end models (those with metal forks) are good, fast transportation, yet with enough speed to ride with a touring club.
The Specialized Sirrus Comp is a "105" level race/train model that is priced far below its performance and value. Given a nice set of Neuvation M28 or Rol Race wheels (thin spokes for comfy speed boost) and some Kool Stop brake pads, this machine could quite easily take on a $2000+ road racing bike. Oh, and it would need some non-Armadillo tires. Just switch those for Michelin's speed boost.
Sirrus Pro is a little bit confused, but could be employed at a pro cyclocross event and/or safely navigate down the mountain with its disc brakes. This is a mountain/mud/wet version. The matching tires should be Panaracer T-serv, also wet weather.
Sirrus LTD is, in fact, a full racer. With the exception of slow tires, this bike has performance that matches its price and gearing such as used by Team Discovery on Stage 17 of the TDF. It is popular with females because of the easier reach for shifters that can contribute to ease of spinning technique performance.
So, be sure to get one measured for reach, not standover height. Too big is too slow. So, do try for a smallish size to get good areo. Yet test drive and just pick the one that seems fast and pleasant, the one bike that does both fast and pleasant at the same time. Test drive a lot.
You'll have a greatly accelerated (even competitive), yet very comfortable ride. That's what they're for.
Millions, actually billions, of very similar bikes make the roads impassible to cars in the land of the Dutch. For instance, it is not possible to get a car into the airport. Either bike or tram is the only way. Tying a brightly colored flag on your bike is the only way to find it in their very jammed (brimming over with bikes) airport parking lot. Wish I could show you a picture. They look like the Sirrus.
Zooming all around France, not a drop handlebar in sight, despite their famous Tour de France, the natives are on bikes that could easily be mistaken for mountain bikes--but they're not. It is either a lot like Diamondback's Windwood / Edgewood series (shocks on the front) or just like the speedy, lightweight Specialized Sirrus, and those are the bikes the French prefer instead of the uncomfortable "racer". After all, if you're going to use it every day, why put up with the shifters being faraway off the front of the bike? Not the French.
Over in England, that's where you'll see the drop handlebars more frequently. Why? Because they don't want to look like the French or Dutch. ;) They also use a lot of XC mountain bikes because their hills are far steeper than the limit in the U.S. Once out in the country, what do you see? Yet more bikes just like the Sirrus. That's because long distance cycling is easiest on the flat bar performance bike.
Most of the English flat bar bikes are upgraded to North Road style handlebars that offer both a forwards grip for areo and a backswept grip when you want more luxury.
Those are available here for about $12 (Pyramid branded, bikepartsusa.com) for a lightweight alloy set 21" wide. These can be wrapped with the thick drop bar tape (use extra-thick version) and installed upside down (club-race style) for high areodynamic performance or face-up for luxury, as seen on the majority of foreign touring bikes.
Nashbar.com has a heavier variety (of upgrade handlebar) with ultra-modern looks called a "trekking bar" that is also quite popular with this style of bike. As with drop bar, the only reason to choose the "trekking bar" over the traditional "North Road" is just for looks. Looks and image are very important to some, so I mention the "Nashbar ATB Trekking Bar" as a way to North Road style comfort and performance with the benefit of modern looks (important to some people).
Why would you put an upgrade handlebar on the already nice Sirrus? $12 to $20 is a tiny price to acquire both speed and comfort simultaneously. It is also what is onboard the long distance touring bike of the year--a bike that is otherwise very similar to Sirrus.
Anyway, enjoy your Sirrus. That's certainly easy to do.
Two distinct "personalities" for that one.
1) The luxurious slow ride--if you get the bike 1 size too large from the mistake of using traditional standover height to measure a modern bike.
2) The Turbo-Hybrid as they're now called. Sirrus was the first and does its job well. This fit will show quite a bit of seatpost and the bike may seem a bit small. The handlebars will be an easy reach and the result is both fast and comfortable.
Many of the Turbo-Hybrid and fitness bikes are now available. Notable varieties of this are Schwinn Super Sport cyclocross and Diamondback Winwood / Edgewood mountain 29'er. These are a bit different, yet with a similar flair and speedy nature (if the bike is small). The rest of the Turbo-Hybrid on the market are, as usual, blatent copies of the Specialized Sirrus.
In Europe, this bike is simply referred to as "bike". This is the normal bike in Europe. Other bikes are called "Mountain Bike," "Racer," and "Cross."
Before Specialized dared to do it, we didn't have any speedy examples of the Eurobike or Flat-Bar Tourbike.
The lower-end models (those with metal forks) are good, fast transportation, yet with enough speed to ride with a touring club.
The Specialized Sirrus Comp is a "105" level race/train model that is priced far below its performance and value. Given a nice set of Neuvation M28 or Rol Race wheels (thin spokes for comfy speed boost) and some Kool Stop brake pads, this machine could quite easily take on a $2000+ road racing bike. Oh, and it would need some non-Armadillo tires. Just switch those for Michelin's speed boost.
Sirrus Pro is a little bit confused, but could be employed at a pro cyclocross event and/or safely navigate down the mountain with its disc brakes. This is a mountain/mud/wet version. The matching tires should be Panaracer T-serv, also wet weather.
Sirrus LTD is, in fact, a full racer. With the exception of slow tires, this bike has performance that matches its price and gearing such as used by Team Discovery on Stage 17 of the TDF. It is popular with females because of the easier reach for shifters that can contribute to ease of spinning technique performance.
So, be sure to get one measured for reach, not standover height. Too big is too slow. So, do try for a smallish size to get good areo. Yet test drive and just pick the one that seems fast and pleasant, the one bike that does both fast and pleasant at the same time. Test drive a lot.
You'll have a greatly accelerated (even competitive), yet very comfortable ride. That's what they're for.
Millions, actually billions, of very similar bikes make the roads impassible to cars in the land of the Dutch. For instance, it is not possible to get a car into the airport. Either bike or tram is the only way. Tying a brightly colored flag on your bike is the only way to find it in their very jammed (brimming over with bikes) airport parking lot. Wish I could show you a picture. They look like the Sirrus.
Zooming all around France, not a drop handlebar in sight, despite their famous Tour de France, the natives are on bikes that could easily be mistaken for mountain bikes--but they're not. It is either a lot like Diamondback's Windwood / Edgewood series (shocks on the front) or just like the speedy, lightweight Specialized Sirrus, and those are the bikes the French prefer instead of the uncomfortable "racer". After all, if you're going to use it every day, why put up with the shifters being faraway off the front of the bike? Not the French.
Over in England, that's where you'll see the drop handlebars more frequently. Why? Because they don't want to look like the French or Dutch. ;) They also use a lot of XC mountain bikes because their hills are far steeper than the limit in the U.S. Once out in the country, what do you see? Yet more bikes just like the Sirrus. That's because long distance cycling is easiest on the flat bar performance bike.
Most of the English flat bar bikes are upgraded to North Road style handlebars that offer both a forwards grip for areo and a backswept grip when you want more luxury.
Those are available here for about $12 (Pyramid branded, bikepartsusa.com) for a lightweight alloy set 21" wide. These can be wrapped with the thick drop bar tape (use extra-thick version) and installed upside down (club-race style) for high areodynamic performance or face-up for luxury, as seen on the majority of foreign touring bikes.
Nashbar.com has a heavier variety (of upgrade handlebar) with ultra-modern looks called a "trekking bar" that is also quite popular with this style of bike. As with drop bar, the only reason to choose the "trekking bar" over the traditional "North Road" is just for looks. Looks and image are very important to some, so I mention the "Nashbar ATB Trekking Bar" as a way to North Road style comfort and performance with the benefit of modern looks (important to some people).
Why would you put an upgrade handlebar on the already nice Sirrus? $12 to $20 is a tiny price to acquire both speed and comfort simultaneously. It is also what is onboard the long distance touring bike of the year--a bike that is otherwise very similar to Sirrus.
Anyway, enjoy your Sirrus. That's certainly easy to do.
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