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Q. Im training for my first triatholon and am looking for a good road bike for the riding portion. I have been training on a stationary bike at the gym and am needing to get some miles done on a road bike. Ive looked at some local, Houston Tx, bike shops and the prices are well over what I want to spend on a bike. Any suggestions on brands and dealers would be great.
Answer
Ebay! Start with bikes 4 years and older, aluminum, at least 10 speeds. Riding in a Tri is a lot like riding a century. Bike fit and comfort are more important than saving weight. If your position and pedal stroke are comfortable to you, chances are they're more efficient as well.
Then, invest in a set of Tri Aero Bars.. around 60 bucks, and practice with them. More than you think you should! If you wait till the day of your triathlon, you'll dump, wipe, face plant, or hurt someone else the first time you get the wobbles. Make sure you're riding intervals and sprints, not just long distance, low effort spins on an exercise bike.
Anything by one of the larger cycle manufacturers will suit you fine as long as you're comfortable with the bike, it has a big gear you can spin for an hour at high speed, and you rack up the seat time in prep for race day. Good Luck!
And to the Chris S below me.. I agree seem like they are a purely optional expediture, but I have found that they come in very handy when resting your arms and shoulders before or after a long swim. My Veloton group actually restricts their use in TT due to 2 or 3 guys riding aero bars in a paceline last year. A direct result of poor planning on the part of the organizers, but needless to say, that particular group ended up with a broken clavicle, a broken collarbone, three green-stick arm fractures, and yards of road rash!
Also, Have to ditto the shoes and pedals. Most of all though, be comfortable. Dont buy new gear the day before your Tri. If you havent trained in or on it, chances are it will just hurt you.
Ebay! Start with bikes 4 years and older, aluminum, at least 10 speeds. Riding in a Tri is a lot like riding a century. Bike fit and comfort are more important than saving weight. If your position and pedal stroke are comfortable to you, chances are they're more efficient as well.
Then, invest in a set of Tri Aero Bars.. around 60 bucks, and practice with them. More than you think you should! If you wait till the day of your triathlon, you'll dump, wipe, face plant, or hurt someone else the first time you get the wobbles. Make sure you're riding intervals and sprints, not just long distance, low effort spins on an exercise bike.
Anything by one of the larger cycle manufacturers will suit you fine as long as you're comfortable with the bike, it has a big gear you can spin for an hour at high speed, and you rack up the seat time in prep for race day. Good Luck!
And to the Chris S below me.. I agree seem like they are a purely optional expediture, but I have found that they come in very handy when resting your arms and shoulders before or after a long swim. My Veloton group actually restricts their use in TT due to 2 or 3 guys riding aero bars in a paceline last year. A direct result of poor planning on the part of the organizers, but needless to say, that particular group ended up with a broken clavicle, a broken collarbone, three green-stick arm fractures, and yards of road rash!
Also, Have to ditto the shoes and pedals. Most of all though, be comfortable. Dont buy new gear the day before your Tri. If you havent trained in or on it, chances are it will just hurt you.
How can I make my Marin Fairfax 2007 bike better for long distance?
c_smith85
I recently purchased a Marin Fairfax 2007 hybrid bike for commuting around London, and I have so far been very impressed with it for commuting. Although I took into the country and found it to be exteremely slow for long distances. The sales man said this is due to the small wheels designed for acceleration. Is it possible to change the wheels to make it quicker on long distances? Are there any other words of advice to speed the bike up?
Sorry - the bike I have is an Marin Novato 2007 model with the following wheel specs:
Rear Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Front Hub: Shimano, 32 Hole Disc
Spokes: DT 14 Gauge Black Stainless
Rims: WTB SX24, Double Wall, 32 Hole Disc
Tyres: Continental Sport Contact 26â x 1.6â with Safety System
Answer
There are 3 approaches to having a faster bike:
1. Shave bike weight by using components of more lightweight materials like titanium or carbon fiber. This is an expensive alternative.
You can also lighten your wheels by using road tires. These are lighter. Matching the tires to your rims may need professional (local bike shop) intervention. A road tire that does not match its rim can slip off.
2. Alter the sizes of your chainrings and cogset. You can use a road bike's crankset. These are larger and thus will transmit faster linear speed, but will require more pedalling effort to accelerate. Also, these usually come with only 2 chainrings. You'd have to adjust your front derailleur accordingly. The shifter will then have one dead speed. Or you can replace your front derailleur and shifter set with an appropriate road version instead.
You can change your cogset to one with the smallest cog having 11 teeth. This will also make your rear wheel spin faster.
3. Become a stronger rider. Lose weight; strengthen your lower body.
Definitely you can't change the size of your wheel to a larger one without changing your frame and fork and chain and cables and...
The next larger wheel size is 29", the same size as that of a road bike. Maybe you need a road bike instead. But if you prefer the more upright riding position and the better standover clearance of a MTB (or an ATB as what it's usually called in your country), then it may make sense to purchase a complete 29-er rig.
I looked up your bike. The componentry is already very good if you only use it for commuting. If you are in a situation that limits you to owning only your current Marin, changing to skinny road tires is the best alternative. Or you can look at it this way: not going so fast on a country road affords you more opportunity to take in the sights.
Ride safely. (",)
There are 3 approaches to having a faster bike:
1. Shave bike weight by using components of more lightweight materials like titanium or carbon fiber. This is an expensive alternative.
You can also lighten your wheels by using road tires. These are lighter. Matching the tires to your rims may need professional (local bike shop) intervention. A road tire that does not match its rim can slip off.
2. Alter the sizes of your chainrings and cogset. You can use a road bike's crankset. These are larger and thus will transmit faster linear speed, but will require more pedalling effort to accelerate. Also, these usually come with only 2 chainrings. You'd have to adjust your front derailleur accordingly. The shifter will then have one dead speed. Or you can replace your front derailleur and shifter set with an appropriate road version instead.
You can change your cogset to one with the smallest cog having 11 teeth. This will also make your rear wheel spin faster.
3. Become a stronger rider. Lose weight; strengthen your lower body.
Definitely you can't change the size of your wheel to a larger one without changing your frame and fork and chain and cables and...
The next larger wheel size is 29", the same size as that of a road bike. Maybe you need a road bike instead. But if you prefer the more upright riding position and the better standover clearance of a MTB (or an ATB as what it's usually called in your country), then it may make sense to purchase a complete 29-er rig.
I looked up your bike. The componentry is already very good if you only use it for commuting. If you are in a situation that limits you to owning only your current Marin, changing to skinny road tires is the best alternative. Or you can look at it this way: not going so fast on a country road affords you more opportunity to take in the sights.
Ride safely. (",)
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