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Do different health clubs target different target markets? If they do, how?
Answer
Yes, absolutely. A Gold's Gym for example caters to the body-building crowd. They have lots of weights, free weights and do not have aerobics classes. Now a Baly (Which uses high pressure sales techniques.) wants to be a one-size fits all club. They have a pool, they have machine weights, they have a run/walk track, they have eliptical machines, treadmills, stationary bikes, spinning classes, aerobics classes, they have a juice bar, they have babysitters on site, etc, etc, etc. Baly also advertises on television HEAVILY.
One local club in my area (Cardinal Fitness) is not strictly a body-building crowd place, nor is it a Mega-Gym like Baly's. Cardinal Fitness is a basic fitness facility that mates a low price with good, basic facilities. Cardinal Fitness has about 50/50 mix of weights and aerobic equipment (treadmills, elipticals, stairclimbers, bikes). Most of the weights are machines, but they have a fair amount of free weights (though not as much as a body building gym).
So here you have three types of gyms: one caters to a very specialized crowd, one is high priced do everything (badly imo) and the third one gives people the basics.
Yes, absolutely. A Gold's Gym for example caters to the body-building crowd. They have lots of weights, free weights and do not have aerobics classes. Now a Baly (Which uses high pressure sales techniques.) wants to be a one-size fits all club. They have a pool, they have machine weights, they have a run/walk track, they have eliptical machines, treadmills, stationary bikes, spinning classes, aerobics classes, they have a juice bar, they have babysitters on site, etc, etc, etc. Baly also advertises on television HEAVILY.
One local club in my area (Cardinal Fitness) is not strictly a body-building crowd place, nor is it a Mega-Gym like Baly's. Cardinal Fitness is a basic fitness facility that mates a low price with good, basic facilities. Cardinal Fitness has about 50/50 mix of weights and aerobic equipment (treadmills, elipticals, stairclimbers, bikes). Most of the weights are machines, but they have a fair amount of free weights (though not as much as a body building gym).
So here you have three types of gyms: one caters to a very specialized crowd, one is high priced do everything (badly imo) and the third one gives people the basics.
How do i tighten my chain?
Eric V
I have a little yamaha PW 80 and the chain keeps falling off and i need to tighten it but i dont know how, anyone know how to do that?
Answer
You did not say what year you have, but adjusting the chain is fairly easy. There are two basic types of chain tensioners on the market. Snail and pull back. Your Yamaha PW80 should have pull back.
1. Get the rear wheel off the ground. You can do this with a shop stool or some milk crates.
2. Loosen the rear axle. Do not take the axle all the way off, just loosen it so you can turn it freely.
3. Both ends of the axle are connected to the swing arm. The swing arm is the rear part of the motorcycle that holds the rear wheel. At the swing arm ends, connected to the axles you should see a part that looks like an "I" bolt (this is your chain adjuster) connected to the axle with a nut on the end that is at the very back of the swing arm.
4. On the round part of the "I" bolt should have notches on it. There will also be notches on your swing arm.
5. Tighten the chain adjuster on the chain side first. You want about 2" to 3" (2 to 3 inches) of total movement (up & down) out of the chain when you are done (depending on your owners manual or rear suspension set up). To check the chain movement by grabbing the chain with your fingers below the swing arm and about in the middle of the swing arm. Move the chain up and down to see how much movement you have. Make a note of where the notch on the chain adjuster is to the notches on the swing arm.
6. Go to the opposite side of the bike and tighter/loosen that chain adjuster to the same position on the swing arm as the chain side.
7. Go back to the chain side and check the slack in the chain. You want about 2" to 3" of total movement out of the chain. Keep adjusting both sides until you get about 2" to 3" of slack and both chain adjusters are at the same marks on both sides of the swing arm.
8. Tighten up the axle (you should use a torque wrench and torque the axle nut to spec's). Spin the wheel and visually check the alignment of the rear sprocket to the counter-shaft sprocket. The chain should be in a straight line as you are looking at the sprockets from back to front.
That's it. I would put some chain lube on the chain, check for any worn or broken teeth on the sprockets, check your spokes, inspect your tires, check tire pressure, check the linkage to the rear shock, inspect the shock and check your rear brake settings since you moved the rear wheel.
It's good to hear that someone wants to work on their own bike, most people just put gas in them and ride them. Being able to work on your own bike gives you mechanical skills, knowledge, how things operate and save you a ton of cash in the long run.
You did not say what year you have, but adjusting the chain is fairly easy. There are two basic types of chain tensioners on the market. Snail and pull back. Your Yamaha PW80 should have pull back.
1. Get the rear wheel off the ground. You can do this with a shop stool or some milk crates.
2. Loosen the rear axle. Do not take the axle all the way off, just loosen it so you can turn it freely.
3. Both ends of the axle are connected to the swing arm. The swing arm is the rear part of the motorcycle that holds the rear wheel. At the swing arm ends, connected to the axles you should see a part that looks like an "I" bolt (this is your chain adjuster) connected to the axle with a nut on the end that is at the very back of the swing arm.
4. On the round part of the "I" bolt should have notches on it. There will also be notches on your swing arm.
5. Tighten the chain adjuster on the chain side first. You want about 2" to 3" (2 to 3 inches) of total movement (up & down) out of the chain when you are done (depending on your owners manual or rear suspension set up). To check the chain movement by grabbing the chain with your fingers below the swing arm and about in the middle of the swing arm. Move the chain up and down to see how much movement you have. Make a note of where the notch on the chain adjuster is to the notches on the swing arm.
6. Go to the opposite side of the bike and tighter/loosen that chain adjuster to the same position on the swing arm as the chain side.
7. Go back to the chain side and check the slack in the chain. You want about 2" to 3" of total movement out of the chain. Keep adjusting both sides until you get about 2" to 3" of slack and both chain adjusters are at the same marks on both sides of the swing arm.
8. Tighten up the axle (you should use a torque wrench and torque the axle nut to spec's). Spin the wheel and visually check the alignment of the rear sprocket to the counter-shaft sprocket. The chain should be in a straight line as you are looking at the sprockets from back to front.
That's it. I would put some chain lube on the chain, check for any worn or broken teeth on the sprockets, check your spokes, inspect your tires, check tire pressure, check the linkage to the rear shock, inspect the shock and check your rear brake settings since you moved the rear wheel.
It's good to hear that someone wants to work on their own bike, most people just put gas in them and ride them. Being able to work on your own bike gives you mechanical skills, knowledge, how things operate and save you a ton of cash in the long run.
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