What's the best upright exercise bike on the market?

Sale Photo

I think it's Keiser, but maybe someone has a better idea? I want to buy a stationary upright exercise bike for home, but I'm having trouble finding a used Keiser bike for sale in my area. Is there another brand that's just as good or better?

Answer
The Schwinn Airdyne or Aerodyne or soemthing like that has been a staple of exercise bikes for awhile. Assuming you want an exercise bike, and not a Spin bike

What Diamondback BMX bike Should i get?

Lil' Man

Joker 20" Boys' Freestyle BMX Bicycle
Viper
Viper X
Venom

i need advise from people who know diamondbacks. here is a link to a previous question of mine about this telling what im looking for in the bike.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=ArIlPV50qXOpzoJV038izPfsy6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20090716145543AA5qWT8


and also one thing that i forgot to put in the other question but would prefer is the feature in the handlebars where they can keep spinning and not get wound up. so id prefer the Joker Viper X or Venom.
but ill take anyones oppinion on this. beause im also wondering does having this feature make the breaks not work as well?

Answer
DON"T GET ANY OF THOSE BIKES!!!!!!
They are all complete garbage, that will not last a month under any degree of aggressive riding. I know this because my brother got the Joker for his birthday, and needed to replace the wheels by the next month. A month after that the frame developed a crack, and the cranks were bent beyond repair. How you narrowed your search down to Diamondback, I am afraid to ask, but i have advice.

The only Diamondback that is remotely safe to buy is the
Accomplice
Orion

They both have full cromo frames, and cassette wheels, along with integrated head set "accomplice only". The orion is in your price range but isn't the best deal on the market.


http://www.danscomp.com/101682.php?cat=BIKES

This is by far the best deal i have found but there are others. The Kink liberty is in your price range, has a mid BB, 3pc crank, full cromo frame fork and bars, cassette wheel, and is light enough for your kid to handle. Brakes? skate boards don't have brakes, nor do roller blades. One less thing to brake as well.

Consider these others as well:

http://www.danscomp.com/101977.php?cat=BIKES
http://www.danscomp.com/101209.php?cat=BIKES
http://www.danscomp.com/101740.php?cat=BIKES
http://www.danscomp.com/101738.php?cat=BIKES
http://www.danscomp.com/101573.php?cat=BIKES

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Shorter chainstays - mountain bikes?

theVisiona

What are the advantages and disadvantages of different chainstay lengths on a mountain bike?

I read that some advantages of short chain stays (like 15 - 16 inches) include faster acceleration and greater agility. Are there any other advantages? What are some disadvantages?

Thanks!

Answer
Short chainstays are vital for ease in rear wheel balance if you do much in the way of stunts or trials type tricks. If you want to do this stuff, look for a street/urban/dirt jump frame that has the shortest chainstays....or if you really get into it, buy a dedicated trials frame. It's harder to pull or hold manuals and do rear hops on a 26" wheel to begin with (compared to 20" and 24" bmx bikes), but if you combine that with the normal 17-1/2" chainstay, it only gets worse.

That's about their only real advantage. I don't think they're appreciably stiffer (faster acceleration) than other frames, so I can't say I'd count it as a realistic advantage at all. I've never been able to notice a difference. A bike's acceleration is much more affected by the overall weight, tire choice and inflation, fork choice, etc.

The disadvantages to short chainstays are like what was said above. Usually less mud clearance, but with newer chainstay designs that's changing for the better. They definitely hurt when climbing....it'll be easier to spin out on steeps, especially if they're loose or technical. You can scooch up and put your umm.....taint.....right on the very edge of the nose of the saddle and it'll help compensate, but really the standard (longer) chainstays are better for climbing. It's just a matter of geometry and weight distribution.

Most bikes with short stays also are rigged with a short stem, and that only compounds the climbing issues, so you have to work much harder, fail more often, and accept the limitations of this kind of frame. They generally aren't as good in downhill cornering, but some now are made with longer front sections to where you have a bike with short stays but nearly the same overall wheelbase. They're marketed in the dirt jump and hardtail freeride categories, but they're only a compromise for most riders.

If you're shopping for a new frame, see if you can test out an assembled bike before you buy. Sometimes there are just worlds of difference in how a bike handles your input. Unless you want to get jiggy with the manuals, I'd focus more on the other aspects of the frame, such as head angles and bottom bracket drop and overall bb height. Those things make a much bigger difference in how your bike feels compared to the role that the rear end plays.

So after all that braincandy, just keep in mind that ALL bikes are fun, and you can learn to do almost anything on almost any type of frame/bike. The specializations are refinements to help certain riders do certain things, but try not to get too caught up in it unless you really need to.

what is a specialized sirrus bike like?

Matt H

Answer
Two distinct "personalities" for that one.

1) The luxurious slow ride--if you get the bike 1 size too large from the mistake of using traditional standover height to measure a modern bike.

2) The Turbo-Hybrid as they're now called. Sirrus was the first and does its job well. This fit will show quite a bit of seatpost and the bike may seem a bit small. The handlebars will be an easy reach and the result is both fast and comfortable.

Many of the Turbo-Hybrid and fitness bikes are now available. Notable varieties of this are Schwinn Super Sport cyclocross and Diamondback Winwood / Edgewood mountain 29'er. These are a bit different, yet with a similar flair and speedy nature (if the bike is small). The rest of the Turbo-Hybrid on the market are, as usual, blatent copies of the Specialized Sirrus.

In Europe, this bike is simply referred to as "bike". This is the normal bike in Europe. Other bikes are called "Mountain Bike," "Racer," and "Cross."

Before Specialized dared to do it, we didn't have any speedy examples of the Eurobike or Flat-Bar Tourbike.

The lower-end models (those with metal forks) are good, fast transportation, yet with enough speed to ride with a touring club.

The Specialized Sirrus Comp is a "105" level race/train model that is priced far below its performance and value. Given a nice set of Neuvation M28 or Rol Race wheels (thin spokes for comfy speed boost) and some Kool Stop brake pads, this machine could quite easily take on a $2000+ road racing bike. Oh, and it would need some non-Armadillo tires. Just switch those for Michelin's speed boost.

Sirrus Pro is a little bit confused, but could be employed at a pro cyclocross event and/or safely navigate down the mountain with its disc brakes. This is a mountain/mud/wet version. The matching tires should be Panaracer T-serv, also wet weather.

Sirrus LTD is, in fact, a full racer. With the exception of slow tires, this bike has performance that matches its price and gearing such as used by Team Discovery on Stage 17 of the TDF. It is popular with females because of the easier reach for shifters that can contribute to ease of spinning technique performance.

So, be sure to get one measured for reach, not standover height. Too big is too slow. So, do try for a smallish size to get good areo. Yet test drive and just pick the one that seems fast and pleasant, the one bike that does both fast and pleasant at the same time. Test drive a lot.

You'll have a greatly accelerated (even competitive), yet very comfortable ride. That's what they're for.

Millions, actually billions, of very similar bikes make the roads impassible to cars in the land of the Dutch. For instance, it is not possible to get a car into the airport. Either bike or tram is the only way. Tying a brightly colored flag on your bike is the only way to find it in their very jammed (brimming over with bikes) airport parking lot. Wish I could show you a picture. They look like the Sirrus.

Zooming all around France, not a drop handlebar in sight, despite their famous Tour de France, the natives are on bikes that could easily be mistaken for mountain bikes--but they're not. It is either a lot like Diamondback's Windwood / Edgewood series (shocks on the front) or just like the speedy, lightweight Specialized Sirrus, and those are the bikes the French prefer instead of the uncomfortable "racer". After all, if you're going to use it every day, why put up with the shifters being faraway off the front of the bike? Not the French.

Over in England, that's where you'll see the drop handlebars more frequently. Why? Because they don't want to look like the French or Dutch. ;) They also use a lot of XC mountain bikes because their hills are far steeper than the limit in the U.S. Once out in the country, what do you see? Yet more bikes just like the Sirrus. That's because long distance cycling is easiest on the flat bar performance bike.

Most of the English flat bar bikes are upgraded to North Road style handlebars that offer both a forwards grip for areo and a backswept grip when you want more luxury.
Those are available here for about $12 (Pyramid branded, bikepartsusa.com) for a lightweight alloy set 21" wide. These can be wrapped with the thick drop bar tape (use extra-thick version) and installed upside down (club-race style) for high areodynamic performance or face-up for luxury, as seen on the majority of foreign touring bikes.

Nashbar.com has a heavier variety (of upgrade handlebar) with ultra-modern looks called a "trekking bar" that is also quite popular with this style of bike. As with drop bar, the only reason to choose the "trekking bar" over the traditional "North Road" is just for looks. Looks and image are very important to some, so I mention the "Nashbar ATB Trekking Bar" as a way to North Road style comfort and performance with the benefit of modern looks (important to some people).

Why would you put an upgrade handlebar on the already nice Sirrus? $12 to $20 is a tiny price to acquire both speed and comfort simultaneously. It is also what is onboard the long distance touring bike of the year--a bike that is otherwise very similar to Sirrus.

Anyway, enjoy your Sirrus. That's certainly easy to do.

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some general poi spinning questions?

Ophelia

I think I want to start learning to spin poi and i have a few questions
1.) what kind of poi are good to start with
2.) where do I buy poi ? at a head shop ? at a sporting goods store ?
3.) is buying poi like buying a bike or a pair of shoes (in that there are different sizes and rules about how they should fit) or is there just one size for everyone.
4.) books,videos, websites, you can suggest
5.) anything else you think I should be aware of
THANK YOU!!!!
Keepa Keepa: not that kind of poi
this kind of poi http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2IjdnMvBW_A
except probably not with fire at least at first. ;- )

Answer
I got mine from House of Poi website.
Unfortunately I'm in the US so there isn't a big market for it.
I also got the Poi basics DVD with Pele's Element.

In grade 6 we had made some with plastic bags. I've also (for my youngest daughter) put bouncy balls into Hubby's socks and knotted the ends to keep the ball in.
And just a few months ago I turned 2 juggling balls (MB stage balls, 3inch) by drilling a hole in them, inserting a carriage bolt and adding a chain and clip. They work really well but OUCH when I hit myself in the back of the head :) (happens on a regular basis and the cause of my delay in becoming really good.) I can't have fire poi until I stop smacking myself in the head with the ones I have :)

The ones I got from House of Poi are fuzzy blue ones. They are SUPER light. But they still hurt when you're hit with them. The heavier ones I find easier to spin. I think I need to find (or make) some that are in between the weights I already have.
There are different sizes, lengths of chain/strap and either grip with your fist handles or finger straps. I prefer fist grip but for some tricks you need the finger straps.

If you have a shop near by that sells them I'd go take a test "spin". Find out what suits you best.
In general you want ones that come to about your knees when held at shoulder height. Or the chain reaches from wrist to shoulder. That's the basic length. Of course you may find longer or shorter works best for you.


Good Luck and Happy spinning.

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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some general poi spinning questions?

Ophelia

I think I want to start learning to spin poi and i have a few questions
1.) what kind of poi are good to start with
2.) where do I buy poi ? at a head shop ? at a sporting goods store ?
3.) is buying poi like buying a bike or a pair of shoes (in that there are different sizes and rules about how they should fit) or is there just one size for everyone.
4.) books,videos, websites, you can suggest
5.) anything else you think I should be aware of
THANK YOU!!!!
Keepa Keepa: not that kind of poi
this kind of poi http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2IjdnMvBW_A
except probably not with fire at least at first. ;- )

Answer
I got mine from House of Poi website.
Unfortunately I'm in the US so there isn't a big market for it.
I also got the Poi basics DVD with Pele's Element.

In grade 6 we had made some with plastic bags. I've also (for my youngest daughter) put bouncy balls into Hubby's socks and knotted the ends to keep the ball in.
And just a few months ago I turned 2 juggling balls (MB stage balls, 3inch) by drilling a hole in them, inserting a carriage bolt and adding a chain and clip. They work really well but OUCH when I hit myself in the back of the head :) (happens on a regular basis and the cause of my delay in becoming really good.) I can't have fire poi until I stop smacking myself in the head with the ones I have :)

The ones I got from House of Poi are fuzzy blue ones. They are SUPER light. But they still hurt when you're hit with them. The heavier ones I find easier to spin. I think I need to find (or make) some that are in between the weights I already have.
There are different sizes, lengths of chain/strap and either grip with your fist handles or finger straps. I prefer fist grip but for some tricks you need the finger straps.

If you have a shop near by that sells them I'd go take a test "spin". Find out what suits you best.
In general you want ones that come to about your knees when held at shoulder height. Or the chain reaches from wrist to shoulder. That's the basic length. Of course you may find longer or shorter works best for you.


Good Luck and Happy spinning.

Need a tip on buying a road bike, maybe 2nd hand. Help me cycling experts!?

Mark

I'm in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I'm not really up to speed on these things.

My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn't in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I'm not really sure what you'd class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I'd be massively grateful.

My specification;
Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
There's a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
I'm 6'2", if that makes any difference.

Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

Answer
Problem is that light fast road bikes don't take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

I'm not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be "thorn proof" and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don't recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the "group set" which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian "Bianchi" models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady's frame may be just as tall as a man's but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it's too low.

Another man I know has a recent Surly "Long Haul Trucker" which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it's not the only bike made for that kind of use.

If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what's been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don't expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you'll learn a lot. Also google "veloculture" and "tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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How do I customize my Diamondback bmx bike?

what is the best spinning bike on the market image

Tyler P

I have a stock Diamondback '04 Grind bmx bike and I want to customize it to a good flatland bmx. Can someone please tell me what kind of sprockets, wheels, forks, etc. I should put on it? Thanks

Answer
A new Flatland bmx will set you back between US$350 and US$2,000... depending on how good you want your parts to be. Obviously, the $2,000 bike will come with the best parts on the market today. Here's an example... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1311
At the cheaper end, you have the beginner-orientated bike, which has low-end parts, but good to start out with. Here's an example .. http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1124

As a rule of thumb, the more expensive a bike or part is, the lighter it will be, over the cheaper parts. When it comes to Flatland, a light bike is usually better, and will allow you to develop your skills a lot faster, and let you ride longer, without getting as tired as you would if you were riding a street bike for Flatland.

So in saying all that, here are your options...

1: Buy all new flatland parts for your current frame. http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=2
This option will set you back around $1000-1200, but keep in mind, your frame is way heavier than any flatland frame on the market, so you will more than likely switch to a flatland frame soon enough. If ur outlaying all that money for new parts, throw in the extra $300 and get urself a nice Flatland frame while ur at it... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=26

2) If ur on a budget, spending thousands on a bike might not be such a good idea, and since ur new to Flatland, you might wanna get a good beginners bike, and then upgrade ur parts as you feel you need to, or can afford to. This way, you have a frame that you can stick with for years, without needing to upgrade. A good example of this kind of bike is this one... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1322 or this one... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1331
That last one is a beginner bike, but the same bike, with pro-range parts on it, looks like this... http://flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1309, which is something you can turn the 'beginner bike' into, with some extra money.

You can still ride Flat on a street bike, if you change a few parts, it will just not be as 'smooth' and easy as riding a flatland bike. Heres what you will need to do to your current bike if you wanna make it more of a flat-bike...
- Get a longer seat post, around 300mm, and set it to max. height, as noted on the bottom of the post.
- Get minimal or zero offset forks, to make front wheel tricks way easier. They allow u to pop up onto the front wheel so eaisly.
- Put pegs on, all round.
- Be sure to have a gyro set up for back brakes
- Put a shorter reach stem on. Anywhere from 26mm-40mm.
- Get tyres no wider than 1.95, and make sure they're high-psi. For flatland, 120psi is super smooth for spinning and rolling.
- If you really wanna lighten ur bike without spending much, take the cranks off. You'll save about 2 kilos, and you can do a lot of tricks without needing to pedal. It's not a popular option, but it's a cheaper one.

So there are some options for you. The main deciding factor for people buying a Flatland bike, is budget. I splurged and bought pro-everything when I build mine, so I knew nothing was going to hold me back from learning, except myself. Right now, there is 10% off on all parts and bikes from the site I've posted links to, so now is the time to buy... you'll save a packet.
Email me if you have any more questions about any of this. :)

What are the pros and cons on a 2 stroke/4 stroke dirt bike?

Marlbobama

I used to own 2 stroke bikes, but that was many years ago before 4 strokes were widely on the market. What are the advantages/disadvantages?

Answer
The only real advantage to a 2 stroke is weight, that's it. There is really nowhere else a 2 stroke has any advantage. In response to what the first person said, a 4 stroke actually has way more torque than a 2 stroke. So in a nut shell, it's like this. A 2 stroke makes it's power in a smaller part of the power band and because of this the power comes on more abruptly which leads to wheel spin. This is fun for the non-racer that is just playing around. It's fun when you can grab a handful of throttle and have the back tire spinning and throwing rocks, etc., but spinning wheels do not win races. On a track the 2 stroke gets dominated by the 4 stroke for that very reason. First off since the 2 stroke is lacking low end, the 4 stroke will pull stronger out of a tight corner, Then after the power does start to come on with the 2 stroke you have to deal with lack of traction due to the abrupt power delivery. So basically it's like this. If you want to compete in MX/SX you can either race a 4 stroke or lose, it's just that simple. If you are riding for fun, a 250/300 2 stroke can be a lot of fun and some of them do very well in the woods. They are also very fun on a track as long as you don't expect to win on it.

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How can I make some extra money on the side?

what is the best spinning bike on the market image

Q. I am going into grade 10, which I have been told is the hardest grade in highschool, so a job would be too much, since I also take guitar lessons. I am one of those people who likes to go places, which requires money. Please do not suggest online money making opportunities because I dont want to waste my time on those. All suggestions are appreciated. I am not looking to get rich, just something on the side so I am not completely broke.

Answer
There are many ways of earning extra money. In some cases, people lose their jobs and it becomes survival money. All of the ideas that follow offer potentially good opportunities to earn some extra cash.

Volunteering
Work at a place that might have job opportunities for you e.g. a seniors center, hospital, golf course, etc. Meet a lot of people and network. They know people who know people and so on. The volunteering can also be personally enriching. Make suggestions for jobs you see need doing e.g. teaching the elderly how to use a computer.

Garage sales
Recycling and reusing are not dirty words! There is a ton of stuff out on garbage night that could be picked up that is still useful. If cleaned up or slightly repaired it is potentially worth lots of money e.g. picture frames, small furniture, sports equipment, cutlery and dinnerware, glass & pottery, jewelry, books, computer parts, etc. Once you get good at it and know prices, start going to garage sales and buy stuff that can be resold at a higher price at your own regular garage sales or at used goods shops.

Resell to Dealers
Flea market sellers, antique dealers, and consignment stores are only a few of the people who survive on the sale of used goods.

- TV's that people throw out can be worth about $10-$20 each to repair people who are always on the lookout.
- bikes can be sold to bike repair people and/or used sports equipment dealers. The going rate is anywhere from $10 and up. If they can be fixed at home, they can sell privately. Older "antique" bikes are often highly desirable. Ads in the paper and Buy & Sell type magazines should clear them out quickly for you.
- dehumidifiers and humidifiers can be sold to businesses that repair and sell them. If somebody is handy, it is usually easy to repair many dehumidifiers as the only thing wrong with many of them is a seized motor. A little oil and a few spins and it often works again, no problem. In the summer they sell for about $50-$60 if in good working condition.

Think of all the university student rooms and apartments that need a humidifier in the winter.

Sports Equipment
There is a lot of money in sports equipment. Ice skates, roller blades, snowboards, skateboards, etc. Get familiar with what used goods stores want and buy up newer models at yard/garage sales, estate sales, church rummage sales, etc. Sell them to "Play It Again Sports" stores. It is possible to find them all year for about $2-$10 and you can get $15-$25 or more for them at the stores. It is very easy to build up credits and then buy your own new sports equipment at minimum cost. In many cases, it is also possible to get cash for the equipment. Make sure there are no breaks or missing parts. It has to be flawless for safety reasons.

Door-to-door Selling
Find a product that could easily be sold door to door e.g. economy size boxes of saran wrap, garbage bags, deodorizers, etc. Something small and useful that everybody uses all the time. A novelty toy sold to kids in tourist districts is good too. Be alert and cautious when doing this!

Used Paperbacks and Novels
Check with used book dealers first to see how much they pay for them - usually from 25 cents and up. Also find out which books they find most desirable. Go to garage sales and buy them for about 10-15 cents each or cheaper. Some dealers also sell old magazines. Again, first find out which ones are most desirable. Check out garage sales and especially rummage sales at churches or schools for books. Although small, profit can be at least 50% or better.

Yard Work
If you have fairly good tools, cut lawns, rake areas, etc. Gotta do a good job though!!

Useful Services
Look for needs in parking lots, parks, busy streets, in grocery stores, etc. Walking dogs, watering plants regularly in somebody's yard, doing the edge trimming work around lawns ((I'm sure there are people who dislike that job as much as I do and would pay a kid to do it) One young girl was paid $15/hr to watch a company machine seal envelopes. They couldn't afford to not have anybody there if it jammed.

Garage Door Art
Imagine all the plain, unattractive "canvasses" attached to almost every house just waiting to be covered. Offer to put on large house numbers, pleasant abstract patterns or landscapes. Match or extend the painting to a nearby garden or walkway. With a few cans of paint, brushes and imagination, you can be making $100 or more per garage door.

Porch Rail Painting
Ever notice all the rusty porch railings in your neighborhood? With minimum investment of a few basic colors of rust-proof paint, a wire brush, metal sandpaper and some good small hairy roller brushes, you could make a lot of money sprucing them up.

What is a good road bicycle for me?

spackler

I'm a 43 yr. old male, in good shape and I'm in the market for a good performing bike in the $600 to $900 range.

Answer
A well considered answer into a price range that only buys a "weekend warrier" type bike?

Okay, then we'll try to give you some variety and a few good hints to see that you get the most pleasure out of it.

Starting off with the very fastest bike in that price range, the Specialized Allez Triple simply blows the rest away (followed shortly by Canondale), while saving you enough to get a decent wheelset. Unfortunately, the fragile frame, responsible for its speed, requires accomodations. Should you get it an enhanced wheelset, each wheel should contain a minimum of 20 evenly spaced spokes and more is fine. That's a bit more expensive than the 16 spoke decoration wheels. You'll also need a shorter stem than the one included, because headtube crackout is a sure thing with a "gorilla" stem. Profile Designs H20 90mm would bring it within the range of normal and safety, but this isn't the bike for you if your arms are long or if you are heavier than 150 pounds.

Schwinn road bikes, while not glamorous, are extraordinarily effective at their no-compromise blend of speed and comfort. You may find one that is, in fact below your price range to have equally satisfying performance to other manufacturers higher priced bikes.
Technology trickle-down provides a featherweight, yet extremely durable AND shock absorbing 3d aluminum frame to Schwinn road bikes from $375 on up.

At the price range you're looking at, there's about two effective differences between these and a $2000 bike. Those are crankset with alloy chainrings and fast wheels (specifically, 20/20 or 24/20 with effective, evenly spaced spokes). These are easy to change. Due to technology trickledown which results in fantastic frames and rear drive systems for all modern bikes and the fact that the usual two lacking points (above) are ever so much less expensive aftermarket, price no longer has merit.

Don't be shy about buying a bike that is equipped with a "road triple" and advanced gearing, such as a 12-27 cassette or even a mountain rear (at least LX for full compatibility with Shimano road levers 8sp, 9sp and XT's road-worthy 11-32 featherweight mountain climber). In fact there's an odd looking yet extraordinary application of a "compact double" with a mountain rear drive such as the one illustrated in order to eliminate the uphill chainring dance.

Not even the finest athletes can race the hills of England without such equipment. The difference has little to no effect on price, so your bike might as well be equipped to handle a wider variety of courses, thus resulting in finer enjoyment with the additional ability to "go forwards" regardless of terrain or possible exhaustion (it happens).
Spinning an easy floating sensation up hills is also a fine feature--that doesn't cost anything extra.

The least weird looking application of advanced gearing goes on a bike with a road triple, 9 speeds on rear, and Ultegra's famous 12-27 cassette. This is about $70 aftermarket and is plug-n-play simple. Sometimes advanced gearing is available at no cost, although usually involving one of Sram's featherweight 8 speed cassettes (when there's no extra cost).

Modern "size" caveats include not listing the effects of tire clearance, having every other size medium bike a 54 or 56 and totally at random, having every other size large bike a 56, 57 or 58, and totally at random, regardless of brand or model and varying within brands--by each and every model.

Another caveat is that the old school idea of using stand-over height to judge the bike is now totally wrong. That will result in an exhausting large heavy thing that is slow to sprint, slow to climb and won't keep up. Professional athletes keep one of these around because the intense added challenge results in rapid gains of strength. My trainer is this way (through foul luck) and it certainly does work for strength building--gains on every single ride, despite its unpleasant nature (putting the lie to a premium brand). This is now the easiest way to buy a trainer for harsh exercise and the worst way to get a "good" bike for enjoyment.

Because of the rapidly increasing length of top tubes throughout the varying bike sizes, buying a larger bike for the purposes of an easier reach will backfire badly. The handlebars of the larger bike are actually now a much farther reach.


Your test drives will quickly determine the bike for you, and there's no other way to do it right.

The good bike will make you smile when you ride it. It will seem faster than the other selections because it will have optimal ergonomics for your body. It will allow you to straighten your back or not at your choice/whim.

The good bike is the one that you have test ridden five times so far, compared others to it, and now absolutely refuse to leave it at the store.

It really is that easy, or that difficult, depending on your approach.

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What's the best upright exercise bike on the market?

what is the best spinning bike on the market image

Sale Photo

I think it's Keiser, but maybe someone has a better idea? I want to buy a stationary upright exercise bike for home, but I'm having trouble finding a used Keiser bike for sale in my area. Is there another brand that's just as good or better?

Answer
The Schwinn Airdyne or Aerodyne or soemthing like that has been a staple of exercise bikes for awhile. Assuming you want an exercise bike, and not a Spin bike

How can I make my bike sound better?

Jake

I'm personally not worried about how loud my bike is, I have a 2004 Honda rebel 250. Will taking the baffles out mess up he bike? And is there any way I can remove them without drilling holes? I just want a quick easy way to make it sound better. I don't want to put to much time and money into a bike when I'm getting another soon. Any help?

Answer
It won't hurt performance, but you might have to rejet the carb.

Besides the sound baffles there are two other little items in the exhaust. There is also a spark arrestor screen and a turbulence screw.

The spark arrestor screen is just that, a screen that stops hot carbon pieces from exiting the exhaust. It is mainly made for off road, but is also required on road bikes.

The turbulence screw is something most guys don't know about. It looks like a giant screw thread or auger thread and it is welded into the exhaust pipes. The turbulence screw spins the exhaust gases so it doesn't free flow out.

I have never done it to a Honda Reble, but have done it to several other Honda's in the past. I would purchase a new muffler/silencer from an after market company that was a free flowing design. You can pick up used motorcycle silencers for under $50. Cut the pipes at where they line up with the back of the engine cases. Add an extension pipe (if needed) so you can mount the new/used muffler/silencer.

The motorcycle superstore sells brand new bolt on mufflers for under $100: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/118/39114/ITEM/Emgo-Dunstall-Replica-Universal-Muffler.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

You can also make a car glass pack fit. They are only $25 new: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_thrush-glass-pack-mufflers-dynomax_5291585-p?zoneAssigned=1

If you are the ultimate cheap bastard and you do not want to drill out the baffles, you can try ramming them out. This will generally not work, because they are welded into place. You would need a really long metal rod center punch. This will work for the spark arrestor part, but not the baffles or the turbulence screw.

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What's the best upright exercise bike on the market?

what is the best spinning bike on the market image

Sale Photo

I think it's Keiser, but maybe someone has a better idea? I want to buy a stationary upright exercise bike for home, but I'm having trouble finding a used Keiser bike for sale in my area. Is there another brand that's just as good or better?

Answer
The Schwinn Airdyne or Aerodyne or soemthing like that has been a staple of exercise bikes for awhile. Assuming you want an exercise bike, and not a Spin bike

How can I make my bike sound better?

Jake

I'm personally not worried about how loud my bike is, I have a 2004 Honda rebel 250. Will taking the baffles out mess up he bike? And is there any way I can remove them without drilling holes? I just want a quick easy way to make it sound better. I don't want to put to much time and money into a bike when I'm getting another soon. Any help?

Answer
It won't hurt performance, but you might have to rejet the carb.

Besides the sound baffles there are two other little items in the exhaust. There is also a spark arrestor screen and a turbulence screw.

The spark arrestor screen is just that, a screen that stops hot carbon pieces from exiting the exhaust. It is mainly made for off road, but is also required on road bikes.

The turbulence screw is something most guys don't know about. It looks like a giant screw thread or auger thread and it is welded into the exhaust pipes. The turbulence screw spins the exhaust gases so it doesn't free flow out.

I have never done it to a Honda Reble, but have done it to several other Honda's in the past. I would purchase a new muffler/silencer from an after market company that was a free flowing design. You can pick up used motorcycle silencers for under $50. Cut the pipes at where they line up with the back of the engine cases. Add an extension pipe (if needed) so you can mount the new/used muffler/silencer.

The motorcycle superstore sells brand new bolt on mufflers for under $100: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/118/39114/ITEM/Emgo-Dunstall-Replica-Universal-Muffler.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

You can also make a car glass pack fit. They are only $25 new: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_thrush-glass-pack-mufflers-dynomax_5291585-p?zoneAssigned=1

If you are the ultimate cheap bastard and you do not want to drill out the baffles, you can try ramming them out. This will generally not work, because they are welded into place. You would need a really long metal rod center punch. This will work for the spark arrestor part, but not the baffles or the turbulence screw.

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Whats the best way to walk a bicycle long distances?

what is the best spinning bike on the market image

Q. if i simply cannot peddle it uphill due to the heavy load and have to walk it, what are the best methods? Is there something on the market to make it easier?

Answer
You're trying to "peddle" your bicycle? You trying to sell it? To "peddle" is to sell good or wares - as a door-to-door salesperson will sell vacuum cleaners or magazine subscriptions. You "pedal" a bicycle.

Either you have a bike without enough gears or you're not "spinning" the pedals in a gear that's easy to use with moderate pedal pressure fast enough. In plain English...drop that sucker into low gear & pedal as fast as you can. The faster you can "spin" the pedals - the easier it becomes. Make sure your saddle (seat) is at the proper height. Links below...

How can I make some extra money on the side?

Q. I am going into grade 10, which I have been told is the hardest grade in highschool, so a job would be too much, since I also take guitar lessons. I am one of those people who likes to go places, which requires money. Please do not suggest online money making opportunities because I dont want to waste my time on those. All suggestions are appreciated. I am not looking to get rich, just something on the side so I am not completely broke.

Answer
There are many ways of earning extra money. In some cases, people lose their jobs and it becomes survival money. All of the ideas that follow offer potentially good opportunities to earn some extra cash.

Volunteering
Work at a place that might have job opportunities for you e.g. a seniors center, hospital, golf course, etc. Meet a lot of people and network. They know people who know people and so on. The volunteering can also be personally enriching. Make suggestions for jobs you see need doing e.g. teaching the elderly how to use a computer.

Garage sales
Recycling and reusing are not dirty words! There is a ton of stuff out on garbage night that could be picked up that is still useful. If cleaned up or slightly repaired it is potentially worth lots of money e.g. picture frames, small furniture, sports equipment, cutlery and dinnerware, glass & pottery, jewelry, books, computer parts, etc. Once you get good at it and know prices, start going to garage sales and buy stuff that can be resold at a higher price at your own regular garage sales or at used goods shops.

Resell to Dealers
Flea market sellers, antique dealers, and consignment stores are only a few of the people who survive on the sale of used goods.

- TV's that people throw out can be worth about $10-$20 each to repair people who are always on the lookout.
- bikes can be sold to bike repair people and/or used sports equipment dealers. The going rate is anywhere from $10 and up. If they can be fixed at home, they can sell privately. Older "antique" bikes are often highly desirable. Ads in the paper and Buy & Sell type magazines should clear them out quickly for you.
- dehumidifiers and humidifiers can be sold to businesses that repair and sell them. If somebody is handy, it is usually easy to repair many dehumidifiers as the only thing wrong with many of them is a seized motor. A little oil and a few spins and it often works again, no problem. In the summer they sell for about $50-$60 if in good working condition.

Think of all the university student rooms and apartments that need a humidifier in the winter.

Sports Equipment
There is a lot of money in sports equipment. Ice skates, roller blades, snowboards, skateboards, etc. Get familiar with what used goods stores want and buy up newer models at yard/garage sales, estate sales, church rummage sales, etc. Sell them to "Play It Again Sports" stores. It is possible to find them all year for about $2-$10 and you can get $15-$25 or more for them at the stores. It is very easy to build up credits and then buy your own new sports equipment at minimum cost. In many cases, it is also possible to get cash for the equipment. Make sure there are no breaks or missing parts. It has to be flawless for safety reasons.

Door-to-door Selling
Find a product that could easily be sold door to door e.g. economy size boxes of saran wrap, garbage bags, deodorizers, etc. Something small and useful that everybody uses all the time. A novelty toy sold to kids in tourist districts is good too. Be alert and cautious when doing this!

Used Paperbacks and Novels
Check with used book dealers first to see how much they pay for them - usually from 25 cents and up. Also find out which books they find most desirable. Go to garage sales and buy them for about 10-15 cents each or cheaper. Some dealers also sell old magazines. Again, first find out which ones are most desirable. Check out garage sales and especially rummage sales at churches or schools for books. Although small, profit can be at least 50% or better.

Yard Work
If you have fairly good tools, cut lawns, rake areas, etc. Gotta do a good job though!!

Useful Services
Look for needs in parking lots, parks, busy streets, in grocery stores, etc. Walking dogs, watering plants regularly in somebody's yard, doing the edge trimming work around lawns ((I'm sure there are people who dislike that job as much as I do and would pay a kid to do it) One young girl was paid $15/hr to watch a company machine seal envelopes. They couldn't afford to not have anybody there if it jammed.

Garage Door Art
Imagine all the plain, unattractive "canvasses" attached to almost every house just waiting to be covered. Offer to put on large house numbers, pleasant abstract patterns or landscapes. Match or extend the painting to a nearby garden or walkway. With a few cans of paint, brushes and imagination, you can be making $100 or more per garage door.

Porch Rail Painting
Ever notice all the rusty porch railings in your neighborhood? With minimum investment of a few basic colors of rust-proof paint, a wire brush, metal sandpaper and some good small hairy roller brushes, you could make a lot of money sprucing them up.

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