Reviews on the Kawasaki Ninja 250?

Diana

Getting my first bike.. Not to sure of what to get... Ninja looks sweet but I want to make sure it's a good bike. What would you guys recommend?

Answer
Ninja 250s are a great little bike and a great bike to learn on. I've been on any kind of motorcycle you can think of and I have a ball every time I ride one.

They are light, easy to handle, will out-accelerate 95% of the cars on the road, will get up to almost 100mph, and get 60 - 70 miles per gallon.

In my opinion, you can't find a better motorcycle to learn on, and many people keep them long after they are done learning. Once you are used to it, don't be afraid to spin the engine up to 13,000 rpm. They produce maximum power at about 11,000 rpm, which sounds like it's screaming, but that's what it's designed to do.

Kawasaki has perfected this bike to the point they almost never fail, as long as you do normal maintenance on it.





http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1145

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/157/735/Motorcycle-Article/2008-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-First-Ride.aspx

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/kawasaki-ninja-250-review

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/2008-kawasaki-ninja-250-review-part-1-4

http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2010-kawasaki-ninja-250r-ar72522.html

Funn MTB parts review!?!?

Max

Are the stems any good? The bars? any thing? It looks so damn cool i just have to have it! It would go on a dirt jumping bike

Answer
I have a Rippa stem, V2 (original) seatpost, Full-on bars, and some Fatboy bars....they're all bomb-proof and mine have been through a lot of serious urban abuse. The stem and seatpost are awesome....especially the seatpost. If you get the seatpost be sure to order it with the correct inserts to match your saddle rails. You may go through saddles, but the seatpost will be with you for the rest of your life....really. The newer V3 seatpost is pretty much the same thing with a different look (and Deity's is very similar). If you could see the clamp mechanism you'd be impressed. It's a loop-top with big v-splines that the inserts mate with. You won't ever break it or strip them out. I like the design of the Rippa with the top load design. Atomlab has something similar but I really like the Funn better.

I've also been running their isis bottom bracket and THAT is what I've been most impressed with....I expected it to crap out or break under the abuse I give that bike but it's still holding strong and spinning smooth after lots of rain, big stair gaps, and many 4'-7' drops to flat concrete on an aluminum hardtail, plus a lot of serious bashing (gone through 2 Race Face bashguards). No other isis bottom bracket has lasted me more than 6 months max. If I had to choose another bottom bracket it would be the Race Face freeride, but the Funn has just stunned me so far for an isis design.

I considered getting some of their cranks, but I don't think they're that special except for having the Funn name on it (a bit excessively heavy, too). You can pick up some Hussefelts or Holzfellers on closeout for much less and have as good or better cranks.

There are lots of great products out there. Funn has been around a long time cranking out strong well-made parts, but they're getting harder to find in the U.S. because they can't seem to keep distributors supplied and people drop the line. With a more favorable exchange rate, you can order their stuff from http://www.chainreactioncycles.com ...the shipping is actually really reasonable, so if you can't find it in the U.S. that's not a bad option if you have to have the Funn name. I've ordered from them several times.

Deity, Atomlab, Fire Eye, and Transition all make some killer stuff, too. Transition's stuff comes in colors and they keep the pricing pretty low. If you're not averse to ordering overseas, you should also check out the resurrected Nuke Proof parts. They were big back in the day and then disappeared...the new stuff is made for rough play for sure but I don't think it's available in the U.S. right now.

I'm no expert on Funn, this is just my experience with them. If mine ever break on me, I might buy Funn again, but that would depend on their presence in the U.S. and/or what the warranty period is. I just run BB7 brakes, but if I were to buy Funn's new hydro brakes or use their hubs, this issue would be especially important to me (parts availability and warranty). Honestly I don't think their parts are ever going to fail on me. I like that. :o)

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GMC Denali Road Bike Review?

Lolman

If you OWN the GMC Denali road bike, can you tell me about it?

I know it's very cheap for a road bike, so the quality isn't going to be amazing, but what can you say overall about the quality and your experiences riding it?


Some things to possibly go over:

Frame
Weight
Wheels / Rims
Functionality
Shifters / Brakes
Saddle
Friction? (between chain and sprockets and how well the wheel spins)
Overall comfort

If there are any major FLAWS in the bike, I would appreciate if you could point those out, too! Or even if you have a suggestion for another road bike I should look into (preferrably below $300 if possibly).
If you know of any good road bikes (possibly older ones that are used, but can still be found in good condition) that I should look into, please list them.

Answer
"If there are any major FLAWS in the bike, I would appreciate if you could point those out, too!"

The entire bike is flawed. What's really funky about that bike is a THREE piece handlebar. Center piece - then the left & right twist grip shifters - then two more pieces that drop down & away from the shifters. What happens if a shifter breaks? They do not sell replacement shifters for that bike.

You'll need an all new one piece handlebar & two new shift/brake levers.

The bike from the start is J-U-N-K!

Beginner BMX bike question?

halohellbo

I was thinking of getting a BMX bike and trying some flatland tricks.... It will be my first time. I was thinking of spending like 150$ on my first bike. And if I can get pretty good I can get a nice bike. But I was wondering if there is a certain type of BMX bike that I should get for a first time user. And also should it have front brakes? The reason im asking that is because if I have to spin the handle bars a couple of times when im doing a trick wont the brake line get cought up? Anything additional I should know before i go for it?

Answer
you can spin the bars 360 and still have brakes called a gyro theres gyro systems that can have front and back brakes but i personally just like the back brakes or brakeless :) i have a haro x3 nyquist line i like the bike look up some reviews you might like it, its not the lightest bike but you get used to it and start to get it higher and so on

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Reviews on the Kawasaki Ninja 250?

Diana

Getting my first bike.. Not to sure of what to get... Ninja looks sweet but I want to make sure it's a good bike. What would you guys recommend?

Answer
Ninja 250s are a great little bike and a great bike to learn on. I've been on any kind of motorcycle you can think of and I have a ball every time I ride one.

They are light, easy to handle, will out-accelerate 95% of the cars on the road, will get up to almost 100mph, and get 60 - 70 miles per gallon.

In my opinion, you can't find a better motorcycle to learn on, and many people keep them long after they are done learning. Once you are used to it, don't be afraid to spin the engine up to 13,000 rpm. They produce maximum power at about 11,000 rpm, which sounds like it's screaming, but that's what it's designed to do.

Kawasaki has perfected this bike to the point they almost never fail, as long as you do normal maintenance on it.





http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1145

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/157/735/Motorcycle-Article/2008-Kawasaki-Ninja-250R-First-Ride.aspx

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/kawasaki-ninja-250-review

http://www.bestbeginnermotorcycles.com/2008-kawasaki-ninja-250-review-part-1-4

http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2010-kawasaki-ninja-250r-ar72522.html

Funn MTB parts review!?!?

Max

Are the stems any good? The bars? any thing? It looks so damn cool i just have to have it! It would go on a dirt jumping bike

Answer
I have a Rippa stem, V2 (original) seatpost, Full-on bars, and some Fatboy bars....they're all bomb-proof and mine have been through a lot of serious urban abuse. The stem and seatpost are awesome....especially the seatpost. If you get the seatpost be sure to order it with the correct inserts to match your saddle rails. You may go through saddles, but the seatpost will be with you for the rest of your life....really. The newer V3 seatpost is pretty much the same thing with a different look (and Deity's is very similar). If you could see the clamp mechanism you'd be impressed. It's a loop-top with big v-splines that the inserts mate with. You won't ever break it or strip them out. I like the design of the Rippa with the top load design. Atomlab has something similar but I really like the Funn better.

I've also been running their isis bottom bracket and THAT is what I've been most impressed with....I expected it to crap out or break under the abuse I give that bike but it's still holding strong and spinning smooth after lots of rain, big stair gaps, and many 4'-7' drops to flat concrete on an aluminum hardtail, plus a lot of serious bashing (gone through 2 Race Face bashguards). No other isis bottom bracket has lasted me more than 6 months max. If I had to choose another bottom bracket it would be the Race Face freeride, but the Funn has just stunned me so far for an isis design.

I considered getting some of their cranks, but I don't think they're that special except for having the Funn name on it (a bit excessively heavy, too). You can pick up some Hussefelts or Holzfellers on closeout for much less and have as good or better cranks.

There are lots of great products out there. Funn has been around a long time cranking out strong well-made parts, but they're getting harder to find in the U.S. because they can't seem to keep distributors supplied and people drop the line. With a more favorable exchange rate, you can order their stuff from http://www.chainreactioncycles.com ...the shipping is actually really reasonable, so if you can't find it in the U.S. that's not a bad option if you have to have the Funn name. I've ordered from them several times.

Deity, Atomlab, Fire Eye, and Transition all make some killer stuff, too. Transition's stuff comes in colors and they keep the pricing pretty low. If you're not averse to ordering overseas, you should also check out the resurrected Nuke Proof parts. They were big back in the day and then disappeared...the new stuff is made for rough play for sure but I don't think it's available in the U.S. right now.

I'm no expert on Funn, this is just my experience with them. If mine ever break on me, I might buy Funn again, but that would depend on their presence in the U.S. and/or what the warranty period is. I just run BB7 brakes, but if I were to buy Funn's new hydro brakes or use their hubs, this issue would be especially important to me (parts availability and warranty). Honestly I don't think their parts are ever going to fail on me. I like that. :o)

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What would be a good bicycle for fast street riding or freeriding?

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Jimi

Max price at around $600 please. Height 5'11" ish, 170 lbs skinny if those make any significant difference. Thanks :D

Answer
I am not up on free riding, so I may not be right on the mark. I am not to sure based on your question that you would ride on the street more than free riding. Which leads me to Specialized Crosstail consider the comments below on the type of riding, does this match what you are looking for in a bike?

This bike can do it all.
[4 of 4 customers found this review helpful]
âââââ 5.0
PROS
Durable
Multi-purpose
CONS

BEST USES
Off-road
Pavement

"I bought this bike after a trip to my local bike shop. I told them I was looking for something good for all around but nothing race oriented that would be good to get back into biking and get me out for some exercise.


So far this bike has made me want to get out and bike more. I've done anywhere from 5 to 45 miles per outing and have been on pavement, dirt and gravel, cinder paths and all out mud and muck. I'm just starting out but can easily spin the bike 15-18mph up moderate hills and it felt solid on a 38+ mph descent down the back half of a rather steep hill climb.


The last ride that sold me was a 40 mile trip around a lake in the thousand islands that was 30 miles on-road and then 10 miles of absolutely, what was I thinking off-roading. This thing pulled me through some good 8-10" of standing water and was still decent enough at pulling me up over some decent sized rock inclines with wet and muddy tires (semi-slick) tires.


The stock seat was good for me until about 20 miles round trips and then I swapped out for something a bit more comfortable.


As my legs feel stronger and my distances increase I am wondering if I could also use a road bike but I wouldn't get rid of this one either way."



Read more: http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/men-specialized-crosstrail-reviews#ixzz1KVEtfGZP

Best.

How big of an effect does wheel diameter have on bicycle performance?

John P

Answer
Surprisingly not as much as a lot of people would have you believe.Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

The big advantages are; A smaller wheel can be made much lighter and therefore will accelerate quicker. A smaller wheel will be much more resilient to sideways forces.

The disadvantages are that they need to be geared much higher and spin faster (higher frictional losses) for any given speed.

There are few really low rolling resistance tyres available for small wheels. The best that I 'm aware of is Greenspeed's Scorcher here is a review
http://www.bentrideronline.com/reviews/scorchers/scorchers.htm

My conclusion is that on a shorter or winding courses the smaller wheels will be much better. As the riding surface becomes rougher, or softer the advantage shifts towards larger wheels. For sustained higher speeds (ie road cycling) the larger wheels win, but not by a huge margin.

Here is an article that covers the subject well. (and a reliable institution.)
http://hea-www.harvard.edu/~fine/opinions/wheelsize.html

I'll throw in this review of a small wheeled road bike for good measure
http://www.alexmoulton.co.uk/reviews/cycling_plus_bs.html

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What should I get/ do to become a mountain bike racer?

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pokerspade

I am an average novice bike rider. I want to know what I need to do to start training and eventually compete in mountain bike races. What kind of training and diet regiment should I follow? What kind of bike and helmet should I get? How do I even get into a race? I am looking for anyone who has experience in the sport who might be able to help an upstart wannabe racer make his dreams come true.

Answer
First off, I am sure you have a bike. But I am sure it's not 1. Fitted to you 2. Tuned 3. Has proper Components. If you want to race this summer the good news is you don't even need a bike right now. You need to be in the Gym 3-4 days a week taking Spinning classes, weight lifting on both legs and upper body and following a nutrition plan to skinny you up (yes Skinny riders are normally the fastest).

Bike, Ok so your now on your way to getting fit. That's good. But to race you need the right bike. Go to your best Local bike shop (check MTBR.com for review). And tell them your story, they will either outfit you with a better set up or take what you have and get it ready for racing..

Riding: MTB is not just about fitness or gear. But a lot about heart and finesse. I would find out from the shop were the last year races were, maybe there was a series that toured around your state. Then as soon as the weather is nice get out there and ride as much as you can, forget the Gym and just ride. It's a lot different then being on a stationary bike.

Once your comfy on the bike and all the trails (this is not as easy as you think). Make some friends that ride, again your shop is a good resource. and look into a good beginner race. This will get your feet wet with how it's done.

After you have raced a little the rest falls into place.. Good luck.

What happens to tire slime after its expiration date?

Colin

Hi,

Some while ago I bought some slime/tire sealant for my mountain bike. The tube it came in says it lasts from two to six months.

I was wondering: could I put some new slime into an inner tube with expired slime? What happens to the slime when it expires? Does it become like a paste or evaporate?

Thanks.

Answer
I have had Slime tubes in my MTB for over 2 years. Same tube, same slime. Every week or so they lose around 10 psi if left unchecked (maybe it's time for some new slime tubes) , but this is no problem if you regularly check and change your tyre pressure for riding different conditions/surfaces. Around 2 or 3 times in this time I have got a flat tyre. All I did was spin the wheel to re distribute the slime and then pump up it back up and it is fine.

Sure it was a bit messy when it was time to get a new rear tyre (it gets slimy between the tyre and tube!) but it was clear that after inspecting the tube, it had in fact sealed quite a few small punctures (got bored and gave up counting after around 10). Once in the new tyre I gave it a nice spin and spread the slime out and it is fine.

So no need to fix a puncture during the whole life of an MTB tyre used all different conditions/surfaces.

All the nay sayers who say Slime does not work, you must have only had experience with cheap products and not proper Slime ( http://www.slime.com/ ) or not used them at all and just going by a few bad reviews. And yes, the valve would clog up if you let the air of of your tube tooo fast!

So yeah, to answer your question, don't worry mine are keeping my tyres full of air and stopping puncture after 2 years, maybe I will get some new tubes and slime when I wear out these tyres...

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What to look for in a used bicycle?

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Arthur

I don't know anything about bikes. I'm looking for a men's bike for mostly road use.

Answer
Arthur, Like most purchases, start with a budget.
Next decide what type of use and how much you will be using the bicycle. You said mostly road riding. Do you prefer straiaght bars like a mountain bike or curved bars like a racing bike? How many miles would you typically ride or eventually like to ride? The longer the distance, I would suggest a bicycle with higher quality components and frame.
Make sure the frame is the proper size for your inseam.

All of these questions could be answered for you at a bike shop. I would use their expertise to make sure whatever you purchase will be reliable, comfortable, and allow you to enjoy cycling for the purpose you intend.

If your intent is to buy a used bike to save money, make sure it is not really old because you will eventually need maintenance and components have changed dramatically over time. Make sure the frame has no damage that may show that it was in a wreck. Do the wheels, cranks, headset, and pedals spin without any woble or looseness or friction? Will you need to do much maintenance on it to get it into riding condition? Can you take it to a mechanic to review it?
Buying a used bike from an enthusiast will give you a better chance of knowing it was well maintained.

What model of motorcycle should I buy?

Don Corleo

I'm a new driver seriously considering buying a motorcycle. What model of motorcycle would you recommend? Would I also have to buy a car for when it rains and the winter season?

Answer
Since you're a new driver with little or no experience riding a motorcycle, the first thing you need to do is to take a Basic Rider Safety Course. These are offered in one form or another in all 50 states. They vary in cost, but you usually receive your motorcycle license when you pass the course. The safety skills you'll learn will be well worth the cost.

When considering what type of motorcycle to purchase, you need to think more about what you want from riding and less about what manufacturer's you're interested in. First, ask yourself a few basic questions about what you want from riding. What kind of riding do you want to do and what capabilities do you want your bike to have? Are you attracted to the idea of riding the winding, twisty roads? If your answer is yes to this question, you should look for something in a sport, standard or even a sport touring bike (more on this later).

Or, do you think you just want to cruise along at a modest pace so you can soak in the experience of having the wind in your face? If this is what you like, a cruiser or larger sport touring bike might be more to your liking. If you like all things chrome and you think a bike should be thunderously loud, then a cruiser is most definitely your thing (again, more on this later).

If you chose a sport bike, standard or sport touring bike, then you should consider machines in the 600cc-800cc range, and NO larger. As a novice, you simply do not have the skills and experience to ride anything above that class. Personally, I'd suggest you stay in the 600cc class if a true sport bike is what you choose to purchase. Something like the Honda CBR F4i (which you'll have to buy used since they are out of production) or the Honda CBR600RR are good machines, as are the Yamaha R6 and Suzuki GSX-R 600. All are very capable machines, with plenty of power for a novice to enjoy. Power delivery to the rear wheel is fairly smooth so with a reasonable degree of control you won't be likely to spin the rear wheel (though it is possible).

If you choose to go with a cruiser, go with something in the 650cc-750cc range. Again, Honda, Yamaha (Star motorcycles) and Suzuki all make decent models in that range that would suit a novice. All would serve you well until you've outgrown them through sheer riding experience. That should take a few years unless you ride everyday, everywhere you go for the first two years. At that point you might be ready to move on to something else.

If you live anywhere where it snows, a rust bucket car would be enough to get you through the winter until riding season starts again. Buy yourself some reasonably priced protective gear (Cortech makes some great stuff at affordable prices and it's pretty good in the rain, too), a full-face helmet, leather gloves and above ankle boots. Full protective gear will give you the best chance to survive a mistake (a crash of your own doing) or an accident cause by some @ss in a car or truck. Don't let anyone tell you you don't need that stuff. It saved my life and it saved the life of a professional instructor I know. Both of us survived head-on collisions with cars because we had full protective gear on.

And last, but most importantly ... never, EVER, ride over your head!!!

Never, EVER, let your friends goad you into riding at speeds you know you can't handle. That's a sure fire recipe for a funeral. Yours, and probably some innocent bystander's as well. Do yourself and everyone else a huge favor and just don't go there. And, always view your riding with a critical eye. That way you can review your riding with the intention of improving your skills. Do that and with any luck you'll survive 35 years on two wheels the way I have.

Good luck!

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