Charlie Mi
Hi,
I just got his bike today and it seemed fine when I picked it up, but when i got home and re-fitted the front wheel (quick release) the disk break seems to be engaged all the time, its only gently engaged but if you spin the front wheel in the air it quickly stops.
I checked the back disk break and it appears fine there is a very small gap at both sides of the disk. On the front break there appears to be no gap, and I believe there should be. What do I do to fix this?
This is the bike:- http://www.cube.eu/en/hardtail/ltd-series/ltd-team-black-anodized/
That was a quick reply! :O)
I checked earlier (took wheel off and blew compressed air into the brake) and there is no dirt. Its like the pad that comes in and presses against the disk is engaged even without pulling the break handle? It seems to be permanently touching the disk instead of retracing back a few millimetres.
(I keep spelling brake as break. DOH!)
Ok, just to let you know, it was ok(ish) when I got it home, but was making a rubbing noise and when spinning the wheel in the air it would slow very quickly. There was still a tiny gap on one side of the pads. When I pulled the brake lever then this gap would disappear as the pad moved in, so I think the disk was pressed against the pad at the other side permanently. As I was refitting the wheel for the second time I accidentally pressed the break leaver while lifting the font of the bike. I think this has caused the pads to virtually touch together even when the brake handle is released. How do I release the brake pad and make it back to like it was this morning. And what bad luck on my 1st day with my new bike :O(
hey,
thanks for the help so far.
Richie can you give me a contact email address please. I'd like to ask some more info but cant add much more by editing my original question.
I don't have the special plastic thing, I just used a small screw driver and pushed it in the twisted it and rocked it a bit, I think it might have worked but now the pad looks like its at an angle so I could have broke something?
Answer
if you accidentally pulled the lever while the disc wasn't between them it will have made the pads touch the disc when you re-assembled.
you can get a plastic wedge to push the pads back into the caliper, it is specifically designed for this and you may need to use some force to ease the pads apart,once you have done this, without pulling the lever again, put the wheel back in, do up the quick release and with the bike right way up pull the lever a few times to re align both pads with the disc and try to spin the wheel, it should be alot more free
if not, you can try riding a bit and see if the pads bed in, this means they wear down slightly and seat themselves in the caliper properly, this should also ease some of the pressure,
if not, there are 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the mount, you need to loosen these enough to allow the caliper to move, pull the lever a few times and with the lever pulled, re-tighten the bolts, this will self align the whole caliper with the disc, giving even space on both sides of the pads
please remember, if it is a new bike, the brakes will have been bled and adjusted properly by the manufacturer and there is no need to start bleeding again and if you do not know what you are doing, don't try, you may lose all braking power !!!!
try all the easy options first, it will save you money !!!
edit:
my email is bluerichblue@yahoo.co.uk. the pads really need something to push the actual piston, behind the pad, back into the caliper evenly or the piston will go in at an angle.
i don't think anything is broken but you really need something softer and smoother to do this job, as long as you have a bit of leverage and you aim for the middle of the pad so that the piston goes in straight !!
just make sure you have no leaking of brake fluid from behind the pads, if you do, the seal may be damaged and again if you don't know what you are doing, get someone who does to do it for you !!
if you accidentally pulled the lever while the disc wasn't between them it will have made the pads touch the disc when you re-assembled.
you can get a plastic wedge to push the pads back into the caliper, it is specifically designed for this and you may need to use some force to ease the pads apart,once you have done this, without pulling the lever again, put the wheel back in, do up the quick release and with the bike right way up pull the lever a few times to re align both pads with the disc and try to spin the wheel, it should be alot more free
if not, you can try riding a bit and see if the pads bed in, this means they wear down slightly and seat themselves in the caliper properly, this should also ease some of the pressure,
if not, there are 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the mount, you need to loosen these enough to allow the caliper to move, pull the lever a few times and with the lever pulled, re-tighten the bolts, this will self align the whole caliper with the disc, giving even space on both sides of the pads
please remember, if it is a new bike, the brakes will have been bled and adjusted properly by the manufacturer and there is no need to start bleeding again and if you do not know what you are doing, don't try, you may lose all braking power !!!!
try all the easy options first, it will save you money !!!
edit:
my email is bluerichblue@yahoo.co.uk. the pads really need something to push the actual piston, behind the pad, back into the caliper evenly or the piston will go in at an angle.
i don't think anything is broken but you really need something softer and smoother to do this job, as long as you have a bit of leverage and you aim for the middle of the pad so that the piston goes in straight !!
just make sure you have no leaking of brake fluid from behind the pads, if you do, the seal may be damaged and again if you don't know what you are doing, get someone who does to do it for you !!
Is the Honda VF1000R a good bike?
Timpala
For some reason I have fallen in love with the old mid 1980's Honda VF1000R. Does anyone know about this bike good or bad? I love everything about the look. The Red White & Blue, the tail lights, the head lights etc... Any other suggestions of a similar bike are welcomed. Here is a link to a photo of what I am talking about: http://www.classicsportbikesforsale.com/400/ Also, I just wanted to add that I have been riding for years. Please don't send me "beginner" bike ideas. Thanks!
Answer
In the mag mentioned below, there was a brief write up on VF1000R's. Basically, the writer contacted a previous owner of a VF1000R he was thinking of buying. The bloke had several VF's he worked on himself & wrote back to him mentioning the faults he had encountered;
'Cam lobes can pit/flatten - there is a mod for this. Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs can clog if bike is stood, a pain to clean. Spark boxes can go, also Voltage Regulators - Electrex make a replacement for the VReg. Sometimes a rod bearing can spin'
Similar bikes? Can't think of any V-4's offhand, guess some straight 4's from the era - ZZR1100 or Honda Blackbird - would have similar power & speed, but not torque.
PS the UK mag Practical Sportsbike had a write up/test of them in the Oct 2012 issue. It mentioned a worldwidw owners forum vr1000r.com
In the mag mentioned below, there was a brief write up on VF1000R's. Basically, the writer contacted a previous owner of a VF1000R he was thinking of buying. The bloke had several VF's he worked on himself & wrote back to him mentioning the faults he had encountered;
'Cam lobes can pit/flatten - there is a mod for this. Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs can clog if bike is stood, a pain to clean. Spark boxes can go, also Voltage Regulators - Electrex make a replacement for the VReg. Sometimes a rod bearing can spin'
Similar bikes? Can't think of any V-4's offhand, guess some straight 4's from the era - ZZR1100 or Honda Blackbird - would have similar power & speed, but not torque.
PS the UK mag Practical Sportsbike had a write up/test of them in the Oct 2012 issue. It mentioned a worldwidw owners forum vr1000r.com
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