best spinning bike seat image
Q. Im training for my first triatholon and am looking for a good road bike for the riding portion. I have been training on a stationary bike at the gym and am needing to get some miles done on a road bike. Ive looked at some local, Houston Tx, bike shops and the prices are well over what I want to spend on a bike. Any suggestions on brands and dealers would be great.
Answer
Ebay! Start with bikes 4 years and older, aluminum, at least 10 speeds. Riding in a Tri is a lot like riding a century. Bike fit and comfort are more important than saving weight. If your position and pedal stroke are comfortable to you, chances are they're more efficient as well.
Then, invest in a set of Tri Aero Bars.. around 60 bucks, and practice with them. More than you think you should! If you wait till the day of your triathlon, you'll dump, wipe, face plant, or hurt someone else the first time you get the wobbles. Make sure you're riding intervals and sprints, not just long distance, low effort spins on an exercise bike.
Anything by one of the larger cycle manufacturers will suit you fine as long as you're comfortable with the bike, it has a big gear you can spin for an hour at high speed, and you rack up the seat time in prep for race day. Good Luck!
And to the Chris S below me.. I agree seem like they are a purely optional expediture, but I have found that they come in very handy when resting your arms and shoulders before or after a long swim. My Veloton group actually restricts their use in TT due to 2 or 3 guys riding aero bars in a paceline last year. A direct result of poor planning on the part of the organizers, but needless to say, that particular group ended up with a broken clavicle, a broken collarbone, three green-stick arm fractures, and yards of road rash!
Also, Have to ditto the shoes and pedals. Most of all though, be comfortable. Dont buy new gear the day before your Tri. If you havent trained in or on it, chances are it will just hurt you.
Ebay! Start with bikes 4 years and older, aluminum, at least 10 speeds. Riding in a Tri is a lot like riding a century. Bike fit and comfort are more important than saving weight. If your position and pedal stroke are comfortable to you, chances are they're more efficient as well.
Then, invest in a set of Tri Aero Bars.. around 60 bucks, and practice with them. More than you think you should! If you wait till the day of your triathlon, you'll dump, wipe, face plant, or hurt someone else the first time you get the wobbles. Make sure you're riding intervals and sprints, not just long distance, low effort spins on an exercise bike.
Anything by one of the larger cycle manufacturers will suit you fine as long as you're comfortable with the bike, it has a big gear you can spin for an hour at high speed, and you rack up the seat time in prep for race day. Good Luck!
And to the Chris S below me.. I agree seem like they are a purely optional expediture, but I have found that they come in very handy when resting your arms and shoulders before or after a long swim. My Veloton group actually restricts their use in TT due to 2 or 3 guys riding aero bars in a paceline last year. A direct result of poor planning on the part of the organizers, but needless to say, that particular group ended up with a broken clavicle, a broken collarbone, three green-stick arm fractures, and yards of road rash!
Also, Have to ditto the shoes and pedals. Most of all though, be comfortable. Dont buy new gear the day before your Tri. If you havent trained in or on it, chances are it will just hurt you.
What is the difference in muscle movement between biking and walking?
Chris Do
When I bike, I noticed that the motion that I'm doing is the same motion as walking, but for some reason biking is harder on my legs. Why is that?
Answer
Cycling (not biking) and walking use almost completely different muscle groups & different "load bearing joints" on the body. I should know - I walk with the aid of a cane - but can ride a bike nearly anywhere I need or want to go.
If you're having a hard time cycling - it could be at least two reasons or a combo of the two.
1) Improper saddle (seat) height. With the ball of your foot centered on the pedal & in the 6 o'clock pedal position, there should be only a SLIGHT bend in the knee. Have your saddle set right for optimal leg extension & power. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#height
2) You're "pushing" instead of "spinning" the pedals in too high of a gear. "Cadence" is THE key word. You should always be in a gear easy to use with moderate pedal pressure & spin the pedals at a rate or "cadence" of at least 70-90 rpm. Higher cadence but in lower (easier) gears climbing hills - around 95 rpm and above if possible. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html Good cyclist are always around 90 to 105 rpm.
3) If you have a one speed bicycle - there's 99.9% of your problem right there.
Cycling (not biking) and walking use almost completely different muscle groups & different "load bearing joints" on the body. I should know - I walk with the aid of a cane - but can ride a bike nearly anywhere I need or want to go.
If you're having a hard time cycling - it could be at least two reasons or a combo of the two.
1) Improper saddle (seat) height. With the ball of your foot centered on the pedal & in the 6 o'clock pedal position, there should be only a SLIGHT bend in the knee. Have your saddle set right for optimal leg extension & power. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#height
2) You're "pushing" instead of "spinning" the pedals in too high of a gear. "Cadence" is THE key word. You should always be in a gear easy to use with moderate pedal pressure & spin the pedals at a rate or "cadence" of at least 70-90 rpm. Higher cadence but in lower (easier) gears climbing hills - around 95 rpm and above if possible. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html Good cyclist are always around 90 to 105 rpm.
3) If you have a one speed bicycle - there's 99.9% of your problem right there.
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
No comments:
Post a Comment